A New Easy Way To Really Dial In A Tune?

I think you are diving much farther into this than required.
I'm enjoying the deep dive

As you have stated, never run egt's in the collector, always in the primary tubes. I personally see no benefit to one egt and would opt for all 8 if you decide to go that route.
I can't run that many through the BS3 and would have to opt for some other 8 channel setup. The short amount of reading I've done shows guys that put them in their "lean" cylinders.


That's a great point about carbed motors. They do a better job atomizing and distributing AFRs equally to the cylinders. Makes you wonder if port injection is the right approach.

I'm unclear why you wouldn't notice a benefit at partial loads. If you're going up a grade and you start getting detonation in a cylinder, you can adjust it and see a benefit too, right?

With out EGT's you must rely on reading the spark plugs

This is why I'm interested in the knock sensor. If it shows it's pulling timing on an individual cylinder, you don't have to rely spark plug reading, and with datalogging, you're going to know exactly where it measured detonation.

and make small corrections to your individual cylinders for a base tune up and if you do any sort of adaptive corrections based on AFR they must be global corrections to the maps.
So adaptive corrections are made to the entire map, but that's ok, right? I mean if the individual cylinder tuning has leveled the AFRs and detonation threshold across the cylinders, then you would only want adaptive correction to work in this manner, I'd guess.

Honestly I doubt I will ever do individual cylinder corrections with mine. If I was class racing and needed every last ounce of power from my combination than yes I would go down this road.
I'm kinda thinking it would just be fun to do. I didn't see going down this road either, but if the knock sensor will help me identify differences in individual cylinders, then I think it'd be cool to be able to tune these diffs out.

Yeah, I can see why you wouldn't want to do individual cylinder tuning if it were already so close. I run one timing map, but 2 fuel maps (AFR and VE). I wouldn't want my stuff on kill/ragged edge either. Even with this system, I'd give it a buffer. That way, I'd know something was actually wrong if the knock gauge lit up. I do not want to trash a $10k shortblock, so I'm not going to be playing on the ragged edge, either. I just kinda think it would help me understand where that ragged edge really is and that I have a little safety net in case something is wrong.

As far as a knock sensor goes, I don't see this being a very successful device in a high horsepower application.
At some point, as I read more, I'll start posting some of the combos this system seems to have been successful on. I won't buy it if I don't think it's reliable for a 1000+ rwhp combo like I intend to use it for.


Yeah, you know I was very skeptical when I started reading about this system. All I've ever heard about knock sensor systems is that they're very restrictive and unreliable in tuning. It doesn't seem to be the case with this system, unless you've got some bad piston slap. Some guys are saying if you're at or under about .006 piston-wall clearance, you should be in good shape with this system.

I personally feel rather than re inventing the wheel here, we stick to a good a/f gauge and some old fashioned reading the plugs. I like to stick to the KISS(Keep it Simple Stupid) principal to the best of my ability on everything I build.
I hear ya. Nothing wrong with that, especially since it's working so well already.
Great point. I didn't realize you could do that. I wonder if the BS3 can. I haven't tried to use corrections, yet. I was still working on the base tables.
 
Regarding the dart block, it sounds like this is the way to go:
[URL='http://forums.corral.net/forums/members/125808-andrewtac.html' said:
andrewtacI have a J&S knock sensor, using one sensor on my Dart block. There was a threaded hole one the passenger side on block, close to the starter (above it). No need to drill another hole.

A couple other ideas:
Other helpful installation or informational threads: http://reutterwerk.com/forums/showthread.php?p=205802
http://www.efi101.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8257
 
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So after more reading, I don't think tuning off of a knock sensor is a good idea. From another forum:


In the end, I guess it would still be much appreciated insurance against motor destruction and it would be a backstop to keep you from advancing timing or leaning fuel too much. But, I was under the mistaken impression that leaning and advancing would usually increase torque until you reached detonation, and sometimes even into detonation. Since this isn't true, the premise/subject of this thread also is not true.
 
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