ABS on a foxbody

I put it on my 81 notch. I used the entire brake system from a 2001 GT. Hydroboost, brakelines, calipers, complete 2001 wire harness etc....Here's a pic.

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Downside of SVT's conversion is the ABS is integrated into the entire car's computer and electronics as well as requiring you to run a second line to the rear brakes since it's a 4-channel ABS>


The EASIEST fox mustang ABS system is to use SN95 5-lug conversion parts making sure you use the axles and hubs with the ABS rings on them, and then use 94-95 Mustang ABS computer, pump, wiring, etc. It's standalone and can work on it's own.


Stangplus2birds has a writeup on converting a fox to ABS
 
As people said:
#1) You *need* a front/back 94+ setup. That means 94+ rear axles. That means that the rear tires go out another ~0.75". So, 245's in the rear are get near the limit.

#2) Get the 94-98 ABS system. It's 100% stand-alone. The only "downside" is that it controls both rear brakes at the same time. I haven't seen that to be a problem. And, from a handling/control point-of-view, it has minimal impact.

#3) You have to decide if you want the ABS controller in the stock location. There aren't many places to fit it. It's a big pain to make and run the brake lines to the stock location (with the engine installed). It's a pain. but do-able.

The Bosch ABS controller is GREAT! My Olds (winter DD) had a problem near the end of winter and I decided to wait until the weekend to fix it and drive my Stang. Little snow on the ground, mainly clear forecast. Of course, we goe light flurries and ice on Friday. With my Blizzaks, new Auburn rear-end, and ABS, the Stang had no problem! Still, I don't like driving the Stang in snow/ice/mess. it ruins and chips the paint (salt, sand, small rocks that get put on the road during the winter).


Mustang 86 - Mach1 Springs

Some very old pictures from when I put in the ABS:
M2300K & ABS Installation '86 Mustang GT

Note that I chose a unique location for my ABS controller.

Last: When anyone does a 5-lug swap, they must be very careful about the front rubber line rubbing against the wheel. That's true for any year fox, any wheel combo, and any rubber/steel lines. It's always a tight fit. There are many tolerances and factors involved. So, one person may not have a problem, but secound person may have rubbing. Over time, that rubbing will result in brake failure.


In:
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You can see the brackets that I use to help keep the "rubber line" away from the wheel. On that wheel, I use two brackets, right above the center of the spring.
 
Why does it matter if I use 94-95 rear axles? So, what your telling me is that anybody with these cars cant change to after market axles without losing abs? dont I just need the parts that attach to the ends?


Some aftermarket axles do keep the ABS exciter rings, some don't.

You don't need actual 94-98 axles from an SN95, but if you go with aftermarket axles you need them to to be for a 94-98 Mustang. Make sure they will accept the ABS rings first.
 
Stang and 2 birds: How many hours would you say you have in your abs install?
Hard to say. I have a unique install. I have my ABS unit where the coil used to be - on the driver's side inside fender. Also, I did my ABS install at the same time I did my M2300K kit. So, there was a lot of overlap. And, back then, you couldn't get ISO flare tools or ISO unions. And, it took my a lot of time to make the custom brackets and fit the controller in that location.

So...
o Do you have to put rear ABS sensor rings on the rear axle? That could be take a long time because of the internal pin may break, the drain plug may not come off, etc.

o Similar with front bearings.


So... Let's assume that "all" you have to do in put in the sensors, wires, control unit, and wires. I'll take a wild *ss guess and say 1-2 weekends (2-4 days). A lot depends on where you put the controller and any brake line mods you make.

I just replaced ALL of the brake lines in my '93 Olds. And, I do mean ALL! For me, time is valuable. So, I went and bought ~$200 of coated ISO brakes lines of various lengths and many unions. Also, since it's in my Olds, I cared more about the brake lines being functional and safe, verses making them "look nice". I save a ton of time doing that way! I likely saved 8-20 hours of work. Plus, I only did 2 "test lines" to get the bends I wanted. Also, I bent about 90% of the lines by hand.

For my Stang, I used coper lines to get a prototype line with the bends and the correct length. And, all bends were done with a tubing bender.


Here's where my ABS controller is:
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/joe/brakes/graphics/absCtrView3.jpg
(Note: old picture, a few upgrades since then)

Here's a picture of my prototype copper line verses my brake line:
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/joe/brakes/page2/brakeLineProto.jpg


Wish I could be of more help. IMHO, trying to do it in one weekend may be possible. But, I wouldn't recommend it. You don't want to rush stuff like brakes. Also, don't forget the need to bleed the whole system when you're done.


Anyone else have a better idea of the time involved?