Ac Compressor Clutch Diagram Needed

fastgtracer · Oct 3, 2012

I have purchased a new ac compressor clutch for my 1993 Mustang, as the rubber type material has desintegrated. I am looking for an exploded view diagram for the removal of the clutch. I have looked everywhere online, parts stores, alldata.com. Several forum threads mention the snap rings. I have removed the center nut & the hub will not come off. Is the snap ring holding on the outer thin piece(clutch or hub, not sure what you call it). I do not want to break off the stud on the compressor using a puller without knowing where the snap rings are located. If you know of a diagram that exists your help is appreciated.

tca7291 · Oct 3, 2012

Hopefully this will help, it's out of my factory service manual. There is mention of a special puller to get the clutch hub off. If you need me to reference it in more detail, let me know.

Saleen0679 · Oct 4, 2012

6p148acompressor.pdf

jrichker · Oct 4, 2012

The A/C clutch is about $100 new or you can buy a compressor from the junkyard with a working clutch for about $50. The puller is about $16 if you have to buy one, Autozone will rent you one for free.

The clutch hub is usually what fails, the rubber shock damper shears off from the steel hub and plate. The pulley turns, but the hub doesn't when you power up the A/C.

www.rockauto.com Ford MOTORCRAFT Part # YB289A $39.00

The hub comes off without much problem if you have the puller. You don’t have to do anything with the refrigerant (R12 or R134a), you can replace the clutch without draining and refilling the system. The snap ring hiding inside the hub is the only tricky part.

Remove the nut; remove the snap ring (if present) and then remove the washer. Loosen the puller tool center bolt so that you can get the larger threaded section of the puller screwed into the clutch hub. Tighten up the center bolt on the puller and the clutch hub will come off.

Clutch hub puller tool

AutoZone and most other major auto parts chain stores will rent or loan the puller

A few simple electrical tests are advised before popping out the wallet to buy a clutch assembly. With the engine running, use a test light connected to the 2 wires on the A/C clutch harness to make sure you have voltage when you turn the A/C on. If the system is low on refrigerant, the clutch will not engage (safety feature, keeps you from burning up the compressor due to no oil). There is an aluminum canister on the firewall with a large hose leading to the A/C compressor. There is a pressure switch on it with a 2 wire connector: pull the connector off and jumper the wires. The compressor circuit will power up, and the test light will light if the electrical circuit is good. This test is also a good way to check the compressor & clutch if the system is low on refrigerant. You can jumper the wires and the compressor will turn if the clutch is good.

The clutch also has a relay that shuts off when you go to WOT (wide open throttle). It is located on the passenger side inner fender well. The close proximity of the relay to the headers can cause the insulation on the wiring and the relay socket to deteriorate. The relay can become non functional when this happens.

Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds

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Ac Compressor Clutch Diagram Needed

fastgtracer

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