Adding Supercharger - what else will I need?

oz

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Greetings,
I recently bought a lightly used Paxton 1220 SL and plan to put it on my '91 GT. The blower cam with both the original 3.8" pulley (~6 psi) as well as a 3.33" pulley (~10 psi).
The car has 50k miles, the engine has the typical H, C, I upgrades as shown below and makes ~290 hp at the wheels.

287.2 rw hp @ 5200 RPM, 326.6 ft-lb rw tq @ 4000 rpm
Powerheads (CNC'd E7TE castings w/ 1.90/1.60 valves), Ported Cobra Intake, Motive 3.73 Gears, Comp Cams XE270HR (.512 lift, 218/224 @ .050, 114 lsa), FRPP 1.6 Roller Rockers, FRPP 65mm TB, Pro-M 75mm Bullit MAFS, FRPP 24# Injectors, Custom Autologic Chip, MAC Eq. Shorty Headers, MAC Offroad H-Pipe, MAC Muffs and Tails, Moroso CAI, 3 Core Radiator, Stock Alt. reworked to 130A, B&M Ripper Shifter
After Dyno:
Black Magic Electric Fan, Accel 300+ Ignition


I plan to upgrade the cooling fan, fuel pump (255 lph hi vol), add a rear end girdle & possibly braces and a new clutch (my stock one is already slipping). The guy gave me a big Pro-M meter and 30# injectors to match so I'll use those too.

Do I need an oil separation system for the PCV lines?

If I run street tires, do I risk breaking my axles or transmission?

What else do I need?

Finally, can I run the 3.33" pulley (~10 psi) or will I grenade my stock block?

THANKS!
 
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Noobz347

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Your stock axles and tires will be fine. Oil separators on the PCV is a good idea but you won't know if it's totally necessary until you begin to detect blow-by. 10 psi will not grenade your block <-= IF =-> your blower combo is properly tuned.

I recommend:

A fuel gauge
Vac/Boost Gauge
Wideband AFR meter
 

oz

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Noobz,
What do you mean by 'A fuel gauge'?

I already have an adjutable fuel regulator and pressure gauge under hood... are you suggesting I put the pressure gauge where I can see it at all times?

I was debating the A/F meter - I have one on my other car (carb'd '69 Mustang) as a tuning aid but it lost its calibration a couple of years ago and it won't communicate with my laptop to recalbrate it.... I could pull it from there, send it in for calibration and then put it on this car if there is a need. I was thinking that I'd get it tuned (by either Don Walsh Jr - who did the current tune - or Livernois) and then not worry about the A/F ratio - bad idea???

Thanks.
 

Noobz347

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Those three things that I listed are (for me) a necessity to be in view of the driver when in boost. The logic is that if anything goes wrong, you have a good chance of catching the problem on the gauges before somethig goes, "BOOM".

Your fuel pressure reading while at idle and not in boost is really of no consequence.

LOTS of folks go for the custom tune and don't run an AFR meter. I can see the logic in that but again... if something goes awry, how do you prefer to be notified? By a bang or by a heads up set of guages?


Case in point: I had a vac line pop of the intake side of my KB. I had no idea that this had happened except for.... Yes... my AFR meter indicated that I was running leaner than usual. It's a pretty significant sized line. the port itself is the same size as the port that feeds the brake booster. Had I not had the meter, I would not have known to pull over and check things out before mashing the gas and getting into the boost. :O_o:
 

oz

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Noobz,
Makes sense.

So did you mount your 3 gauges in a pillar pod or elsewhere? What A/F gauge did you get? I assume I'd want one with colored lights so i didn't have to be looking directly at it to see when it goes lean (red lights).

Thanks.
 

Noobz347

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I have an Innovate LM-1 mounted to the right side of my center console and facing the driver.

The two guages that I run on the pillar are the Vac/boost and Fuel Pressure.

What I'd REALLY like to do is just hide the LM-1 altogether and put a greddy analog gauge into a 3 guage pillar. The Greddy guages are FN sweet (and expensive). It takes a 1V input from any wideband reader that has an output.


:drool:

No bulky wideband in vew anymore with that setup. :nice:


One other note:

I'm sure you're already aware but wanted to clarify. Hooking up a guage to your OEM O2 sensors DOES NOT provide you with any usable information regarding your air fuel ratio. You need an actual wide band sensor and reader.
 

oz

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noobz,
I have an LC-1 in my other car. It's really not needed on an ongoing basis since it's carbed. It was just there to help me pick the right jets.

I may remove it from the '69 and put it on the '91 when I install the blower. I'd rather have an analog gauge since it gives more instant feedback but I could always upgrade in time I guess.

Yea, I know, the stock O2 sensors are not wide band.

Thanks.
 

ssj50driver

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In all honesty I would say to go with at least 42lb injectors and maybe some sn95 fuel rails. You always want to have more fuel than you need. Also adding an inline 255 hp walbro wouldn't be bad either to complement your 255 intank. Power via boost is addictive. If your trans is stock (I might have missed if it was a stock t5 or not) then you might be on borrowed time. I would not suggest getting a clutch that is really harsh like a spec3+ or something with a tough pressure plate. I would get one that will be softer on your trans. It should be fine with no 5k clutch dumps and using street tires is helping to save your rear end as well as your trans. Good luck with it.
 

Sharad

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I'd upgrade the clutch, upgrade to 31-spline axles, run some good quality suspension components, and sticky tires!!
 
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