Ok im a retard when it comes to this... I have 1.6 RR and it sounds like one of them is out of adjustment. I have a F cam with crane springs. I was told i need a "feeler gauge" but what space do i adjust down to?
Adjusting RR/Valves
- Thread starter craigwhite89gt
- Start date
this is what somebody sent me a couple of weeks ago, I just went through and did all of mine. I only had 3 I did'nt shim. most of my valve were'nt even seating it definetly made it run better hope this helps
Setting them up is more complex than simply tightening them to a specific torque. The process is below -- I'd use 24 ft-lb on a cast iron head; I stopped mine at 20 ft-lbs. going into an aluminum head.
To install pedestal mount rockers:
1) For each pair (int/exh) be sure you rotate the engine so the lifters are on the base circle of the cam - this is very important. When you install the rockers, both valves must remain closed. Neither lifter can be on any part of the cam lobe - they MUST be on the base circle. Rotate the engine clockwise. Watch the pushrods for the pair you're installing. The exh will rise and fall; as it's about to 'close' (fall back down) the intake will rise. Keep rotating until the intake falls back down (closed) and both the intake and exhaust pushrods are the same height. You're now on the base circle of the cam at the beginning of the compression stroke for that cylinder.
2) Install the rocker and bolt it down to zero lash. Zero lash is reached just when you eliminate the gap between the pushrod and the rocker and the valve stem and the rocker. Tighten with one hand and 'rock' the rocker with the other hand. Just when you reach the point that you can't rock the rocker anymore you're at zero lash.
3) Now - put your torque wrench on it and tighten to 18-20 ft-lbs. while counting the number of turns it takes to reach that torque. It should occur between 1/4 turns and 1 turn. If it takes more than one turn, use a shim to raise the rocker. For each .030" shim you use, you'll reduce the number of turns to torque by about 1/4. If it takes less than 1/4 turn, or you have trouble reaching zero lash even with the bolt torqued all the way to 18-20, then you need longer pushrods.
4) If all goes well on the install, crank it up. If some make noise let the car warm up completely. Then (unfortunately) go back through the install procedure with the components warm. That will usually quiet them down.
Mine has 11 with no shims at all, 4 with one .030" shim, and one with 2 .030" shims. And I had to do the final install with it hot to get them quiet. That approach has them all hitting the required torque within 1/2 to 3/4 turns.
I have a Buddy Rawls custom cam with fairly steep ramp rates, 1.7 roller rockers (pedestal Cobra type), and stock lifters. It runs just about as quiet as it did stock.
__________________
Michael Yount - K'ville,TN 82 Volvo 242w/5.0L; 1997 BMW 318ti
Setting them up is more complex than simply tightening them to a specific torque. The process is below -- I'd use 24 ft-lb on a cast iron head; I stopped mine at 20 ft-lbs. going into an aluminum head.
To install pedestal mount rockers:
1) For each pair (int/exh) be sure you rotate the engine so the lifters are on the base circle of the cam - this is very important. When you install the rockers, both valves must remain closed. Neither lifter can be on any part of the cam lobe - they MUST be on the base circle. Rotate the engine clockwise. Watch the pushrods for the pair you're installing. The exh will rise and fall; as it's about to 'close' (fall back down) the intake will rise. Keep rotating until the intake falls back down (closed) and both the intake and exhaust pushrods are the same height. You're now on the base circle of the cam at the beginning of the compression stroke for that cylinder.
2) Install the rocker and bolt it down to zero lash. Zero lash is reached just when you eliminate the gap between the pushrod and the rocker and the valve stem and the rocker. Tighten with one hand and 'rock' the rocker with the other hand. Just when you reach the point that you can't rock the rocker anymore you're at zero lash.
3) Now - put your torque wrench on it and tighten to 18-20 ft-lbs. while counting the number of turns it takes to reach that torque. It should occur between 1/4 turns and 1 turn. If it takes more than one turn, use a shim to raise the rocker. For each .030" shim you use, you'll reduce the number of turns to torque by about 1/4. If it takes less than 1/4 turn, or you have trouble reaching zero lash even with the bolt torqued all the way to 18-20, then you need longer pushrods.
4) If all goes well on the install, crank it up. If some make noise let the car warm up completely. Then (unfortunately) go back through the install procedure with the components warm. That will usually quiet them down.
Mine has 11 with no shims at all, 4 with one .030" shim, and one with 2 .030" shims. And I had to do the final install with it hot to get them quiet. That approach has them all hitting the required torque within 1/2 to 3/4 turns.
I have a Buddy Rawls custom cam with fairly steep ramp rates, 1.7 roller rockers (pedestal Cobra type), and stock lifters. It runs just about as quiet as it did stock.
__________________
Michael Yount - K'ville,TN 82 Volvo 242w/5.0L; 1997 BMW 318ti
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