Advice on racing with Drag Radials

Can you guys run me through a pass with drag radials please? Tire pressure? 1st or 2nd gear burnout? Duration of burnout? I know i pull around the water, then back just the rear tires into the waterbox. And finally the most important...the launch. What RPM should i launch at, and do i slip it, or dump it (i assume slip, but i just wanna know for sure) Thanks guys!
 
I'm not sure about Mustangs, specifically but, BFG rep told me to start with 18, or so, psi, a very short burnout (just to clean the gunk off...not enough to make smoke. A "dry-hop".), no need to get in the water. Depending on your combo, leave somewhere between 1200~1800 RPM and "mat it". No real clutch slipping, let the tires do that. They will a little, by design. (They DON'T hook like slicks.) Find the "happy spot" where the engine doesn't bog and the tires don't just blow off. Anybody agree/disagree?
 
i had the bfgs and they didn't really hook up that well with a small burnout with water. i had to smoke the hell out of them to get anything resembling traction. this was before the 331.
 
A guy at our local track (GIR) who has had alot of track time and gone quite fast...I think his shake down runs on his new combo was like a mid to low 9 1/4...shakedown.

Anyway I was asking talking to him and he gave me some tips as I was moaning about my 60ft.

He said NOT to just mat it as they (BFG/DR) will just spin and not get the best 60ft. He said that if you get your launch rpm and as you let out the clutch wait until you feel the tires roll (without spinning them) under traction. At that point dump the clutch and go. He said that he has found that once they are even the slightest bit rolling with traction they are HARD to break loose with a prepped track and alittle heating of the tire.

I tried it and knocked .2-.3 off my 60ft while just trying to get it down. My street tire 60ft in the past was a 2.0-ish with a best of 1.9...with the BFG's I was just dumping it after heating them up and getting a 2.4 60fts for 4 runs at the same launch rpm. I got down to a 2.0 or a 2.1 (still not good but getting better) the next run when I tried what he told me and know I would have gotten more off after alittle practice.
 
thanks guys...what rpm should i launch at? and do i get the dr's wet at all? a few people say yes, and a few say no, so idk what works best...kieth, the guy i buying my wheels from said since there are grooves in the tire, i shouldnt get them wet, but when i go to the track, i see people getting them wet....
 
stprorolla49 said:
thanks guys...what rpm should i launch at? and do i get the dr's wet at all? a few people say yes, and a few say no, so idk what works best...kieth, the guy i buying my wheels from said since there are grooves in the tire, i shouldnt get them wet, but when i go to the track, i see people getting them wet....

The rpm is going to be up to you. Pick a starting point….say, 4000 rpm and work up and down from there. When you launch, slip the clutch until you feel it hook…then let go! That's the routine I use with my nitto's…and I was getting consistent 1.8's, high 1.7's on a fairly stock combo.

As far as the water goes, it's there for a reason. If you plan on doing a 5-10 second burnout…which you probably should, absolutely use the water. It will help clean the crap off your tires and allow you to spin em easier. The "grooves" in drag radials (especially bfg's) or not going to sling to much water. Just be sure to back into the water box to do your burnout and use second gear. DO NOT do a burnout in the "puddle" however.

If you don’t plan on doing decent burnout (lets say you just want to clean the tires off) the don’t use the water box at all.
 
First off, EVERY track is different.... and every track can be different each night. Depends on track prep, temps, humidity, ect.

I was always told the water is there for cars that have a hard time spinning the tires and keeping the car from moving forward. The point is to bring the heat up in the tires. If you don't need the water to break them loose easily, then don't use it, you'll heat up the tires just the same, and it won't take as long. Big cars with slicks want to heat their tires thoroughly, works best to stay in one spot and not get the car out of control. So the water is there to help.

While having an AODE is a different ballgame, the tire heating is still the same in the fact that all combos are different. My nittos are on 17s, very little sidewall to help the initial shock of a hard launch, and the rubber is getting old (only use them at the track). So they need a good burnout to hook. If I don't get the smoke rolling, they are worse than my street tires. I also have better luck rolling out of the burnout.... let it spin until it hooks, then NO dry hops....

If I do this, I can launch my car from a dead idle to WOT. It is a little smoother than dropping the clutch at 2,800 in a 5 speed car. The instant I feel the tires bite (car pushes you back in the seat) the juice is activated and I'm instantly pushing the shifter into second.

Best 60ft so far is a 1.86 on my 12.79 pass in my sig. :nice:
 
I don't do a burnout at all, I just go around the water box and dump it in 1st and peel them up to the line. As for launching I don't slip it at all, I just dump it at 5000ish. No spin at all, they hook perfect. And cut a 1.8 60ft with a more or less stock car. Tires are Mickey thompsons, and I run them at about 22psi, since I drive to the track at back with them.