Advice Or Ideas On Next Step With A Dd

I just want some extra kick, so I figured since my rear end could use a rebuild throw some gears in. So I'll probably go with 3.55s. Later on if I want a little more I'll go to 3.73s.

It is a DD and will be for at least the next two years, maybe three. All depends on where I land outta undergrad. Then I'll be looking for a different DD and keep my Fox for my fun car.

Within the next 2 years, I plan to buy a used 302 and T5, and completely rebuild them. Then drop them in when finished. This way I still have a DD, while working on the engine and trans.

HA. Well, I will learn from your experience, and will hopefully complete that plan. As soon as I get the motor and trans, it should be a good start

I got the intake. Pressure washed it. I had to get all that awkward grey paint off of it.

I'd like to polish it somehow, the it is a pretty rough surface to polish. I'd rather not paint it, but if that is my only option then sure.

Suggestions?

Thanks. Those intakes are gorgeous. I'm going to do something similar.

After looking at the painted ones....I've convinced myself to paint them instead. But thanks

mikestang63 said:

just saw the pic. Looks like the #5 runner is tapped. There are no coolant lines and I can't see the rear passenger of the intake so I assume it is not tapped. Your call- either drill and tap the boss back there for your existing hard lines or if you don't have heat just screw in the temp sensor into the opening in the front- looks like that is what he did but pic is fuzzy.

it has stock injectors

that thing looks awful carboned up. I would at a minimum break it down and soak it overnight in some seafoam or better yet buy the bucket of parts cleaner or have a machine shop hot tank it. Same for the TB and EGR, give them a good cleaning . Replace all the gaskets- intake, TB, EGR,. You'll need to swap over your IAC and TPS, and I would replace the FPR while it is off- cheap insurance.. IF not running the coolant lines. cap off the two lines on the EGR. Finally, you'll need to address the vacuum line routing fir the FPR, cannister, A/C, etc. coming off the upper- again buy 10 feet of new hose as cheap insurance..

Jrichker has a good tech article on the explorer install that is very comprehensive.

Click to expand...

Well now that I have cleaned the intake upper, lower, and TB very well. Removed all old paint and such. Then I primed and painted them....attached are the pictures.

I took everything apart....currently, my car is sitting with the top half off. I'm a bit confused on how the coolant running works.

So I will be looking into "Jrichker", not sure i that is a person, or post or what, but I'll look. Anyhow, I have these questions about the GT40.

Reading my Chilton's manual, it says to use RTV sealant on the lower manifold-to-block/heads gaskets....I have been recommended to do so..unless I'm in a hurry...RTV is a must yes?
I'm also replacing my water pump with a Ford Racing high flow since I had it, and Chilton suggests using water resistant sealant on that gasket. Also a must?

My fuel injectors have cracks in the bottom dome/port (? not sure what to call it). 3 of the 8 are fine with no cracks, 3 of the 8 have cracks at the base, and the other 2 have cracks all over the bottom and top of the dome. I believe this bad, bad enough to not put them in and get new ones. I'll looked for used ones on CL, since I can't afford a new set. Plus I have heard higher rated injectors don't do much if I have the stock (E7?) heads. Does this all sound correct?

To the intake:

There is a hole on the very back of the lower manifold, the stock had some sort of filter thing? A lot of metal and such inside, with a rubber insert on top...I have no idea what this is...Answer?

There are the two ports on the back on the lower manifold, that had coolant lines going to them, one from the EGR...and I don't remember where the second goes....I believe this is what you (mikestang63), were mentioning?
I do have heat....so do I need those lines for heat? Those two ports are not on the back of the GT40.....How to fix?

I've heard that you don't need to run coolant to the EGR...I have been told of issues where coolant leaks somehow from the EGR into the lower and then somehow into the engine, mixes with oil...bad. Again, all what I've heard, and I have no idea if this is true or possible.

Are there any other issues with coolant routing?

I'm still waiting to start putting it back together until I get this figured out, get new valve covers, and injectors.....I love cars

Thanls for your input.

I forgot to attach the pictures of the painted intake. I also painted the throttle body, and thermostat housing. And I'm putting on a new high flow FR water pump

Well there is always a next time.

Anyone have answer for my questions?

I believe I found some answers.

I am getting the sealers, they are cheap and needed.

I believe the hole in the back of the intake is the PCV valve? For that I need a new grommet? (Looks like a filter) and a little valve goes inside? Then that line goes to the upper intake? So whatever is sucked in can be burned? That's my understanding of the PCV valve system...

The two coolant lines on the back of the stock intake I believe one came from the EGR and them through the lower and then into the upper? Correct?
Since the EGR will not have coolant going to it, I can not worry about those correct? I know where the heater core lines go and come from. That isn't an issue anymore.