afr engine combo

WantaGT

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Dec 15, 2004

#41

• Dec 15, 2004

• #41

if you were me which would you use? my brother who has been racing small block ford for 25 years is telling me iron because it will make more power. if i bought pro topline iron i could buy the rpm intake to match but i also like the brodix.

 

1

10secgoal

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Dec 1, 2003

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Dec 15, 2004

#42

• Dec 15, 2004

• #42

WantaGT said:

are you saying that i need 300 just to break 13's?

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300 to the rear will got you more than 13's. But iron does not make more power. Aluminum disepates heat better. Allowing for more compression and timing. Plus the wieght saving of the front of the car is great for traction.

 

302 coupe

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Mar 2, 2000

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Dec 15, 2004

#43

• Dec 15, 2004

• #43

WantaGT said:

it's either heads or the intake/cam i can't afford both...

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that makes no sense, those heads will run you about $1300, the cam and intake maybe $300. I don't see that as an "either-or" situation, budget wise anyway. Ported stockers can go low 13's all day for cheap if thats your goal. Even with that being said, I'd still buy the heads. But while I was swapping the heads I'd swap in a cam/lifter kit(they're cheap, come on man). The intake can wait 'til later if it must, its easy to install and you won't have to "undo" any of the other parts you just installed.

 

WantaGT

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Dec 15, 2004

#44

• Dec 15, 2004

• #44

let me clarify, i can't afford to buy all three. i already have the cam and intake mentioned. if i keep those i can afford heads. if i buy a new intake and cam, i can't really at this point. is that better?

 

302 coupe

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Mar 2, 2000

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#45

• Dec 15, 2004

• #45

oh....

then heads would yield the better improvement. If the Roush 180's are out yet, you should look into them. The Topline heads seem to be pretty good too.
If your goal is somewhere around 350 hp, there are cheaper ways to get there that are just as effective. Windsor jr's, powerheads, GT40's, Y303's, any mild aftermarket head or decent ported stocker can get you to 350 hp or so for cheap.

 

WantaGT

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Dec 15, 2004

#46

• Dec 15, 2004

• #46

i think i have found the head i want for my budget build. the roush 180 seems to fit the bill it has a 1.94/1.6 valves 58 cc chambers plus they're only $440 a piece complete. anyone run these heads?

 

WantaGT

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#47

• Dec 15, 2004

• #47

would these with say a stealth intake make a nice combo?

 

302 coupe

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#48

• Dec 15, 2004

• #48

I would say so, should have a nice broad power curve.

 

WantaGT

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#49

• Dec 15, 2004

• #49

does anyone have any specs or info on these heads?

 

66P51GT

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Nov 7, 2003

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#50

• Dec 15, 2004

• #50

World Castings makes the heads for Roush. Check out their catalog: http://www.worldcastings.com/docs/wcatalog04.pdf

I'm not sure what the differences is between the Roush 180s and the Windsor Jr.

 

SoCalCruising

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#51

• Dec 15, 2004

• #51

AFR 165's exhaust port flows so will that you wil be very happy with a single pattern cam. It will aslo match your intake better - and will be fine if you go to the RPM. Port the Performed intake - carefull to keep the runner volume consistent - and go burn the rubber off your tires. You rplan is fine given that you are on a budget.

Didn't read page two before replying...The roush 180s are fine if you have them pocket ported and smooth the runners. If not, they will not make near the power as the AFRs. If you can port at home, read the Standard Abrasives DIY on-line article. David Vizard also wrote an article on porting Windsor Lites (aluminum version of your 180s) that would apply. It was in MM&FF back a year or two. Find someone with back copies. However, if I were you, I would build around the AFRs.

 

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hobbyhorse

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Dec 15, 2004

#52

• Dec 15, 2004

• #52

If I had to choose between the Edelbrocks and the windsors lites, Roush 180s, I would probably go with the Edelbrocks. But I would definitely go with aluminum. If you are racing dynos the irons will make more power, but there aren't many iron heads in the same class as the aluminums that are available. For a street car I would definitely go with the AFRs or Edelbrocks. It is worth the 50lb weight reduction anyway you look at it and it is all up front where you need it. I have AFR 165s and there were pricey but they are the most beautiful hunks of aluminum you will see. They produce great low end torque, throttle response, and great horsepower. I know this is a big decision, but you won't be sorry with the AFRs.

 

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hobbyhorse

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Dec 15, 2004

#53

• Dec 15, 2004

• #53

If I had to choose between the Edelbrocks and the windsors lites, Roush 180s, I would probably go with the Edelbrocks. But I would definitely go with aluminum. If you are racing dynos the irons will make more power, but there aren't many iron heads in the same class as the aluminums that are available. For a street car I would definitely go with the AFRs or Edelbrocks. It is worth the 50lb weight reduction anyway you look at it and it is all up front where you need it. I have AFR 165s and there were pricey but they are the most beautiful hunks of aluminum you will see. They produce great low end torque, throttle response, and great horsepower. I know this is a big decision, but you won't be sorry with the AFRs.

 

WantaGT

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Dec 15, 2004

#54

• Dec 15, 2004

• #54

how will the edelbrocks (rpm or performer, which one?) compare to the afr's

 

D

D.Hearne

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#55

• Dec 15, 2004

• #55

Get the one's you can afford, you'll never know the difference. And anyone who tells you that he knows, is full of it. I seriously doubt anyone here has bolted on AFR's and any other competing head, back to back and could honestly tell you the difference, in either dyno numbers ( not pulled from some magazine article) and real life, seat of the pants feel. What ever head you choose will be an improvement over stock unported heads. You've also got to keep in mind that the bigger the flow numbers, the farther up the rpm range the hp gain you'll see will move. MAKE A CHOICE AND DON'T LOOK BACK , I know in choosing the Canfields I have I made a good choice, and don't reget at all not going with another head that could have flowed more. Both motors I've had them on performed more than my wildest expectations. Even the E7's I ported myself performed better than I'd hoped, on the two motors they've been on. I'd have stuck with them, but I ran into a pile of money two years ago and bought the Canfields on an impulse.

 

WantaGT

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Dec 15, 2004

#56

• Dec 15, 2004

• #56

hey d. hearne earlier you said you had a buddy who could get brodix cheap. no disrespect meant in this question but you think he could hook me up?

 

ratio411

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#57

• Dec 17, 2004

• #57

WantaGT said:

are you saying that i need 300 just to break 13's?

Click to expand...

No...
With the average street car, running well and getting some traction...
300 rwhp will get you to or near 13 flat.


reenmachine:
We are thinking the same, yet on different planes or something...
Torque is the strength you put on a lever, therefore I see strength as power. Do you agree?
Horsepower was originated by how long it took one horse to raise a set weight up a well shaft. The weight never changed, the horses did, but they were still just one horse... it was the time that was measured.
It is the same formula used today to calculate horsepower, just with much more modern equipment, so you don't see the 'nuts and bolts'.
So that is how I say: Torque is the power your engine makes, horsepower is the speed at which it makes that power. Doesn't matter, any gearhead magazine will say the same thing, I just disagree with the notion that you should build purely for torque, especially with small cube engines.
Quote:
"Power (e.g. horsepower) is a measure of how quickly work can be done."
Quickness is a measure of speed, therefore time, the work you are measuring is a product of torque. 5250 is the common denominator in the equation, that is why work equals speed at 5250 rpm.

 

WantaGT

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Dec 17, 2004

#58

• Dec 17, 2004

• #58

i still have no idea what head i'm goin run, i like the roush 180's because of price but they flow isn't the best. i like pro topline's but the 2.02 intake valve might be big for my combo. i like the brodix and afr heads but a bit pricey. i have no idea any more. i'd really like someone to talk me into the pro toplines if they don't think the intake valves is too big, i figured the air might get lazy...

 

allcarfan

The Answer Man

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Dec 17, 2004

#59

• Dec 17, 2004

• #59

I dont know who said that Aluminum heads make more power than Iron....I am not sure that is correct. I know a lot of guys that run NMRA that run a cast iron head because they like to keep the heat in the combustion chamber to make more HP. They try to squeeze every ounce out of their engines.

Change of subject to heads. have you ever considered buy a set of used heads? you can pick up some performers or performer RPMs or twisted wedges all day long for $6-$700. I am all about the twisted wedge heads. ($1000 brand new.) If I had to choose, it would either be the TWs or AFR 165s. The TWs have a 202 intake valve and if you keep the lift of your cam under .550, you wont have to flycut your pistons. Have you visited the AFR website and looked at their engine combos and dyno numbers?

 

WantaGT

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ohio

Dec 17, 2004

#60

• Dec 17, 2004

• #60

well my cam only has .500 lift so piston to valve clearance shouldn't be bad. i just thought a 2.02 might be too big...