AFR/FTI Combo Results?
- Thread starter 5.0-Steve-O
- Start date
My combo:
-AFR 165 heads
-FTI cam
-edelbrock intake
-65mm tb
-75mm MAF
-24lb injectors
-190lph pump
-shorty headers
-offroad x
-dynomax welded ultraflow mufflers
-asp pulleys
-morpheous power pipe
-eec tuner
-4.10 gears
What I asked for:
-a LOW 13 second capable combo that was streetable enough to be driven daily (as it was my DD at the time).
What I got:
-a car that gets 20mpg on the highway, can sit and idle in traffic all day long, dyno'd 304rwhp/331rwtq on a dynojet, and the car runs a best time so far of a 12.5 at 110 in 100% street for including tires, and a 12.19 at 112 in race form on ET streets. Needless to say I'm happy as Ed delievered on all I asked him for, and in addition he supplied the best customer service I have ever experienced. The guy will help you with any and all aspects of your car when you are a customer of his.
Wait until I put up my dad's dyno numbers from his FTI prepped '91GT. I'll post them as soon as I have the graphs to post with them. I was VERY impressed.
-AFR 165 heads
-FTI cam
-edelbrock intake
-65mm tb
-75mm MAF
-24lb injectors
-190lph pump
-shorty headers
-offroad x
-dynomax welded ultraflow mufflers
-asp pulleys
-morpheous power pipe
-eec tuner
-4.10 gears
What I asked for:
-a LOW 13 second capable combo that was streetable enough to be driven daily (as it was my DD at the time).
What I got:
-a car that gets 20mpg on the highway, can sit and idle in traffic all day long, dyno'd 304rwhp/331rwtq on a dynojet, and the car runs a best time so far of a 12.5 at 110 in 100% street for including tires, and a 12.19 at 112 in race form on ET streets. Needless to say I'm happy as Ed delievered on all I asked him for, and in addition he supplied the best customer service I have ever experienced. The guy will help you with any and all aspects of your car when you are a customer of his.
Wait until I put up my dad's dyno numbers from his FTI prepped '91GT. I'll post them as soon as I have the graphs to post with them. I was VERY impressed.
zenboy99
Founding Member
Another vote here for FTI, I don't have AFR's though.
When I first put my cam in, the car idled too good. I've gotten 23.5 mpg on the way to the drag strip with 3.73 gears.
When I first put my cam in, the car idled too good. I've gotten 23.5 mpg on the way to the drag strip with 3.73 gears.
I unfortunately dont have any hp/torque numbers but based on the mph I run I'm guessing that I'm in the same range as those guys...Somewhere around 300rwhp and about 325 rwp/tq 
ATTN killerCanary:
Sorry for hijacking the topic, but I´ll use pedestal mount AFR 165 just like you. Did you have any serious issues on valavetrain geometry on install? I have 1:6 FRPP rr and want to keep it. Also, I understand those heads are emissions legal, can I use it as non-emissions, because my current setup is non-emissions (no smog pump, no EGR, etc.)
I really appreciate any info, I just have to clear this to go ahead!!
Sorry for hijacking the topic, but I´ll use pedestal mount AFR 165 just like you. Did you have any serious issues on valavetrain geometry on install? I have 1:6 FRPP rr and want to keep it. Also, I understand those heads are emissions legal, can I use it as non-emissions, because my current setup is non-emissions (no smog pump, no EGR, etc.)
I really appreciate any info, I just have to clear this to go ahead!!
homerojr said:
I'm not Paul but I have on more than one occasion seen him express his displeasure about some issues with his ped rr's when puting his combo together. Search using his name on maybe he will reply but enough of me trying to speak for him, lol.
I would go for the stud rr's for the extra strength and valve adjustment options
Maybe we can get Jason with AFR to give us his thoughts about the two choices of rockers
Later
Grady
final5-0 said:Maybe we can get Jason with AFR to give us his thoughts about the two choices of rockers
Later
Grady
I wouldn't do something like that....
I agree, stud is better...what can I say, I have owned a few Chevy's!!
They are stronger, have more adjustability/verstility in them, not too mention for most people it is easier then having to deal with different length pushrods and shims and so on...
But I will let you know if you do go stud with our smaller (165/185) heads and are using Comp Pro Magnums you may need longer studs, either do it when you get them or they can be upgraded direct from us ($18.00
) just an FYIHey Grady, Judging by your mods that isn't your car in your avatar....when will it be??
Jason
Jason@AFR said:I wouldn't do something like that....
I agree, stud is better...what can I say, I have owned a few Chevy's!!
They are stronger, have more adjustability/verstility in them, not too mention for most people it is easier then having to deal with different length pushrods and shims and so on...
But I will let you know if you do go stud with our smaller (165/185) heads and are using Comp Pro Magnums you may need longer studs, either do it when you get them or they can be upgraded direct from us ($18.00
Hey Grady, Judging by your mods that isn't your car in your avatar....when will it be??
Jason
First of all .... to the original poster .... I saw a possible opportunity to get a thought or two from Jason@AFR and I kinda figured you wouldn't mind the hijack
Jason ...... Chebby stuff
........... SHAME ON YOU 
As for the wheels up Stang in the Avatar
I've been known to pull em up ever now and then but it was old school stuff and ...... well ...... lets just say its been a day or two ago, lol.
My 95 is just a weekend toy
Later
Grady ......................... aka Old Fart
Jason@AFR said:Damn old people....
LOL, ever think about bringing back the "Old days"...
Well Jason
Since YOU are the one who brought up the "Old days" the answer is YES
After I'm done with the 95 a Pro Streeter 67-68 Stang will most likely be my next project.
For the time being I'm having too much fun with the 95 and all of its new fangled technology.
The last time I had a streetcar with this much get up and go It would not idle at anything less than 1000rpm, surged and bucked BIG TIME at cruising speeds and got the attention of every cop in town, lol.
The 95 is such a sleeper
.............. tunes you can actually hear when the motor is running, cool air in the Texas summer, and except for the cam lope, it drives just like a stocker I LOVE IT Jason, thanks for your reply in this thread cause it will help some I'm sure.
See ya latter bud
Grady
Grady is right about my dislike of the pedestal mount heads. Its not an AFR problem, its just a pedestal mount head problem in general. I fought valvetrain issues for MONTHS until I got it all figured out. I went pedestal mount because at the time everyone I asked told me to just go pedestal since it was a street car and I wasn't doing anything "crazy" with it, I was told they were the easier of the two designs to "live with." Well, as soon as I put the cam in, torqued the heads down, and went to put the rockers on I immediately knew I had a problem. The rocker bolt would bottom out before there was any preload on the pushrod/lifter, and I was even running a thinner than stock head gasket (.032" compressed) which should have had the opposite effect on the pushrod length. After buying a pushrod length checker and about 20 tear downs I finally settled on a 6.300" pushrod and a thin shim under the rockers. I originally milled down the pedestals but the geometry was off and they made one hell of a racket (hence the 20 tear downs), that's why I ended up going with longer pushrods and shims. It was a PITA compared to the numerous stud mount setups I have done since. I ALWAYS recommend stud mount for anyone looking into heads for just this reason. I was told that pedestal was the "easier" style of rocker to deal with... it couldn't have been further from the truth in my case. The other drawback is if I ever decide to mill the heads I will be back at square one with the pushrod length.
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