Aftermarket shifter question--seem right?

[HISSIN50]

Jess, thanks for the Yount-like write up!
i was asking somewhat facetiously before - i knew the shifter was not responsible for notchiness (as i knew it), and i could not figure out if everyone was confusing terms or what.
but i follow your logic (i love the analogy with rubber band profile tires. ill will have to remember that: im not ugly - it is the reflection of light off my face that makes me appear ugly. LOL).

the shifter is an extension of the inner workings of the trans. different shifters convey the message differently (stock, vs alum, vs steel. then one alum vs another, and so on)..? i think perhaps that could be said. and that would be where the reference to notchiness comes from.

i did not know all that info about the construction of the shifters (other than what you have said in the past - i know you love your Pro 5.0 and Kona). the flexing (or whatever you want to call it) in aluminum vs steel makes sense and is pretty interesting.

all around good stuff - i appreciate the education.

P.S. my brain works funny. i totally get what you said and agree - if that is not apparent from this messed-up post, my apologies.

 

[FoxBodyGT]

So I guess a new tranny is in order. Thanks all.

 

[stangbear427]

Only if you are looking for an excuse to upgrade! Try everyone's suggestions first. If it's still very drivable, and it sounds like it is, just a quick rebuild may be all you need at the most. However, if you're jonesing for a Tremec anyway, now may be the time. Sounds like it isn't ready to grenade yet, so you have some time to save up some coin. Good luck!

 

[FoxBodyGT]

No, not ready to grenade. It still shifts fine, and I don't plan on beating on it, anyway. Not for now, at least.

Anyone ever rebuild one?

 

[stangbear427]

Yes. It's not that bad, but I definately don't recommend it unless you are being helped by someone who has done it a few times. It isn't really a learn as you go/teach yourself thing, not that many people haven't done it that way with success. But, considering a good complete rebuild kit is only half the price of a new T5, it only takes one good screw up to make it not worth the effort financially. If you are paying someone labor, it's only worth it if you are getting a deal. Or, if you want to beef it up with stronger gears, etc...
Sounds like you can probably get some more good years out of it though, or at least until it starts to really drive you nuts.

 

[Rick 91GT]

Yeah the rebuild kits run around $170 and are fairly complete, new bearings syncros, seals, blockers, pads, etc... It takes some time to clean and rebuild and test, bearings have to be pressed off and on. I charge $200-250 in labor to do a complete rebuild if the tranny is brought to me, already out of the car.

To put all new parts in, cluster shaft, imput shaft, 2nd and 3rd gear cluster plus the rebuild kit will run you around $550 in parts. If you don't have a steel bearing retainer put one in.

 

[stangbear427]

Hey Rick!

Not to blow the mission here and go off topic, but do you pro shift trannies too, or just the simple rebuilds?

 

[Rick 91GT]

Not to blow the mission here and go off topic, but do you pro shift trannies too, or just the simple rebuilds?

Just rebuild, and upgrades, no pro-shifting here...

Better off going to Hanlon, Liberty or Astro Performance for Pro-Shifting..