Aftermarket steering wheel connections

[HISSIN50]

Hello,

I'm thinkin' about swapping off the stock steering wheel on the '88 and wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something obvious.

With most of the aftermarket adapters (like the one I have) you lose the CC. That's fine, as I will likely relocate the buttons at a later time if I like the new wheel. For now, the stock CC/horn electrical connector (contact rings and pins) at the back of the wheel have 3 connections. Since the CC wiring goes into a solid state box, I'd imagine the different CC switches have differing resistances so the brain knows which button you pushed.....

Anyhow, to a question: one issue I saw was that if I simply plug-and-play the new wheel, the two CC connections will short together via the non-separated ring on the aftermarket adapter. That doesn't seem good. I was going to unplug the electrical connector for the CC (under the column) and simply make one manual jumper across the unplugged connector so my horn works [but leaves the CC disconnected so no shorts can occur]. Is that what you guys do?

I welcome any thoughts of how you did things or anything I didn't think of. I ask because I don't want to fry my CC. I don't use it much but hate things that don't work.

Thank you.

 

[DMAN302]

Listening in....

 

[PoopDawg]

You're not allowed to ask technical questions, JT.. only answer them.

 

[Mike86Stang]

Easy way out is to keep all your parts & just loose the power wire for the CC

 

[HISSIN50]

Thanks guys.

Nick:

Derek, no lurking allowed. If you don't participate, Andy or Mike will remove your post and hide this thread from your viewing pleasure.

Mike, that's what I was thinkin. Do ya think it's easier to disconnect things at the CC brain (which I have not had the pleasure of actually hosing with yet) or to just disconnect the power connector as it nears the wheel? I need to check a schematic to make sure any power wires to the wheel go through the CC module first (or I could still have a short situation).

More ideas or thoughts, or am I being anal? I know y'all have nice steering wheels............

 

[Mike86Stang]

I'd find the easiest connection to get to & unplug that one. Since (on my model/year) the CC brain is to the upper left of the clutch pedal this would be your easiest way out with ease of future reactivation.

I took off the CC steering wheel & put on a 86 NON CC wheel ... looks the best IMHO (looks like SVO wheel)

mike

 

[795.0pacecar]

Dont most of the aftermarket wheel manufacturers have kits that allow you to retain the cruise control?

 

[HISSIN50]

Dont most of the aftermarket wheel manufacturers have kits that allow you to retain the cruise control?

I looked into it a couple years ago and it was a pricey consideration (from Grant). I'm gonna fab the buttons up like they were on something or other (Saleens I think - the buttons were on the rotating portion of the column or something to that effect - I need to check pics again).

Mike, thanks mang. I'll hunt around for the box while watching some baseball and getting eaten by mosquitoes.

 

[Shakerhood]

I would not mind trying to adapt a Late Model Mustang Steering Wheel in my Car, the Wheel was sweet in my 02 GT.

 

[Daggar]

Lemme know what you come up with for the CC panel JT. There are a couple of those Grant steering wheels that I really like. I'm not a fan of their 'after-thought' CC panel though.

Maybe an inlay for the center console or something.

 

[DMAN302]

*still lurking, waiting for others to report on solutions so I can begin my wheel search*

 

[HISSIN50]

I know a lot of folks have aftermarket steering wheels, so I guess they just don't like me enough to post up how they chose to work around the stock slip ring and make things work.

I've mocked the new wheel on the car and it's good to go. I need to take apart the OEM steering wheel so I can see how all the wiring is. It should indeed be many wires paired down into a power and ground, with every switch having a different amount of resistance.

Shaker, for the airbag folks, I agree. I have an '04 wheel in my '94 and I like it. If the 88's wheel didnt look kinda fruity and wasnt prone to swelling and getting soft and rubbery (in severe heat), I'd keep it.

 

[Mike86Stang]

You know I don't even know if my CC was functional when I put this car together... I just yanked the wheel plates & all so I could put the non cruise wheel on it. The CC wheel just looks fugly IMO, so to be honest I didn't care if it killed the CC function.

I tend to think alot of other folks with aftermarket wheels just ditched it rather than finding a way around it.

Let me know if you come up with something....

 

[Roland69]

is the fox wheel splined or round with a flat spot. The 94+ wheels are not splined. I would like a new wheel as well but I already dont have CC so I have never had to think about that. Do you use yours much.

 

[Shakerhood]

is the fox wheel splined or round with a flat spot. The 94+ wheels are not splined. I would like a new wheel as well but I already dont have CC so I have never had to think about that. Do you use yours much.

I am pretty sure they are the same set up as I have seen a few Fox's with SN95 Wheels in them.

 

[90]

hissin50... i was kinda just gonna listen in on this, and just keep my mouth closed to avoid looken stupid, but i have a question that falls in this :cat:.. i have the 90gt... so no tilt steering. i was thinken about putting a aftermarket steering wheel in prolly wont i like the all origanal look, but what about the steering colum ?.. stock there kinda bulky and IMO with an after market wheel.. i think the apperance would kinda clash.. do you have any intentions on swaping/ replacing the colum?


**p.s** good luck on finding an outcome for the CControl, ive been checking in over the last 4days to see what you could come up with.. sorry i dont have any suggestions/ answers for you!

 

[HISSIN50]

hissin50... i was kinda just gonna listen in on this, and just keep my mouth closed to avoid looken stupid, but i have a question that falls in this :cat:.. i have the 90gt... so no tilt steering. i was thinken about putting a aftermarket steering wheel in prolly wont i like the all origanal look, but what about the steering colum ?.. stock there kinda bulky and IMO with an after market wheel.. i think the apperance would kinda clash.. do you have any intentions on swaping/ replacing the colum?


**p.s** good luck on finding an outcome for the CControl, ive been checking in over the last 4days to see what you could come up with.. sorry i dont have any suggestions/ answers for you!

Not lookin stupid at all. I did mock-up the new wheel and can tell you that with the Grant adapter (the non-CC standard one you get for 15 bucks), the wheel does come out towards your chest a lil' bit. The stock wheel pretty much has the column bolt sit right at the outward-most portion of the wheel (just under the horn). With the aftermarket wheel, obviously you have the steering wheel bolt in the basket about 10 miles down from the horn button. It bothers me not at all but I'm used to the '94, where the wheel is in my lap. It is definately a valid concern for you however, especially with no tilt.

With the basic adapter kit, I did get a very nice flush mount and fit to the OEM steering column shrouds (using the larger of the two 'saucers' that come with the install kit). I wont be doing snot to the column if I can help it. Unlike you young pups, I try not to come up with too many 'extra' projects for myself to do.

The CC-adapter Pacecar mentioned comes in two varieties - for 3 and 4 spoke wheels. It actually puts the buttons on the wheel which I dont like. I will mount the buttons to the column behind the wheel. The CC kits list for $170-ish, though I found some for $100 + shipping. I'll be making my own kit for fiscal reasons.

For Shaker and Roland, I went out to the garage to find my old '94 wheel earlier but dont know where I tossed that ugly thing. I know the column on the '88 has no splines and two cammed sides. I just cant remember if the 94's hub is different.

I got sidetracked on the steering-wheel thing with doing springs. I put Mach 1 springs in the fox 'vert (I wanted fresh springs but not much drop - I dont have the wheels to support a nice drop like Pacecar and others have). The rears are too droopy (almost lower than the front). WTF. The rears would match well with C-spring fronts but not-so-much with the Mach fronts (I like a little rake). So that's been what I've been tinkering on instead.

 

[Shakerhood]

Not lookin stupid at all. I did mock-up the new wheel and can tell you that with the Grant adapter (the non-CC standard one you get for 15 bucks), the wheel does come out towards your chest a lil' bit. The stock wheel pretty much has the column bolt sit right at the outward-most portion of the wheel (just under the horn). With the aftermarket wheel, obviously you have the steering wheel bolt in the basket about 10 miles down from the horn button. It bothers me not at all but I'm used to the '94, where the wheel is in my lap. It is definately a valid concern for you however, especially with no tilt.

With the basic adapter kit, I did get a very nice flush mount and fit to the OEM steering column shrouds (using the larger of the two 'saucers' that come with the install kit). I wont be doing snot to the column if I can help it. Unlike you young pups, I try not to come up with too many 'extra' projects for myself to do.

The CC-adapter Pacecar mentioned comes in two varieties - for 3 and 4 spoke wheels. It actually puts the buttons on the wheel which I dont like. I will mount the buttons to the column behind the wheel. The CC kits list for $170-ish, though I found some for $100 + shipping. I'll be making my own kit for fiscal reasons.

For Shaker and Roland, I went out to the garage to find my old '94 wheel earlier but dont know where I tossed that ugly thing. I know the column on the '88 has no splines and two cammed sides. I just cant remember if the 94's hub is different.

I got sidetracked on the steering-wheel thing with doing springs. I put Mach 1 springs in the fox 'vert (I wanted fresh springs but not much drop - I dont have the wheels to support a nice drop like Pacecar and others have). The rears are too droopy (almost lower than the front). WTF. The rears would match well with C-spring fronts but not-so-much with the Mach fronts (I like a little rake). So that's been what I've been tinkering on instead.

The Mach 1 Springs are similar to the Bullitts I have on my Stang, I got about a 1" Drop up Front and about 3/4" Drop out back so it has a 1/4" Rake and is lowered just enough for the kind of roads I have to drive on.

 

[HISSIN50]

The Mach 1 Springs are similar to the Bullitts I have on my Stang, I got about a 1" Drop up Front and about 3/4" Drop out back so it has a 1/4" Rake and is lowered just enough for the kind of roads I have to drive on.

Thanks bud. I thought I recalled the Bullitts and Mach 1's (and Terminator fronts) being almost identical (rate-wise anyhow), and I recalled your nice Bullitt suspension.

I might have misfigured when thinkin that a portly Mach 1 might kinda equate to a fox vert in terms of weight. The old rear springs (not OEM - I need to research what they are since they're dark blue I think) make the Mach 1 rears look like toys. I might have to see if someone makes some sort of shim or something (I think Steeda had something like that). I shoulda' left well enough alone with the rear springs. DOH.

 

[Shakerhood]

Thanks bud. I thought I recalled the Bullitts and Mach 1's (and Terminator fronts) being almost identical (rate-wise anyhow), and I recalled your nice Bullitt suspension.

I might have misfigured when thinkin that a portly Mach 1 might kinda equate to a fox vert in terms of weight. The old rear springs (not OEM - I need to research what they are since they're dark blue I think) make the Mach 1 rears look like toys. I might have to see if someone makes some sort of shim or something (I think Steeda had something like that). I shoulda' left well enough alone with the rear springs. DOH.

You are very correct in that they are for the most part Identical rate wise. I was in touch with a Guy that runs a Mach 1 Forum and they were curious about the speculation, so they got a brand new Mach 1 and measured the ride height and then installed "New Bullitt Pieces" and measured again and the car dropped 1/4" all the way around. The So Called Bullitt Kits that are now on the market are mostly a mix of Mach 1, Cobra, and maybe a real Bullitt Piece thrown in for luck.