Air in coolant system ( S.O.S. )

just4bob50 · Mar 2, 2006

About 6 weeks ago I changed my radiator, water pump and stat. The radiator and pump are summit brand. In the first week or two I had some problems with intermitant overhearing, and having a hard time getting the air pockets to bleed out. I solved these problems buy using a mr.gasket 180 stat. with a 1/8 hole drilled in the stat. at the top. For a few weeks now everything has been great. Engine temps stay between 180-195, I have plenty of heat and I am not using any coolant. Also no leaks any where. I still have 1 issue that I cant seem to resolve or get a solid answer to. when I am pounding on the car and into boost my overflow tank goes from just high enough to keep the low coolant light off to sometimes comming out of the spout on the overflow tank. Also after an extended drive of 15-20 min. whenm I shut the car off I can easily hear gurgeling comming from my overflow tank and then through the heater core. I check for leaks every where and Im 100% positive there are no leaks from the radiator to the heater core. I was told by some one that they thought that I might have a failing head gasket near a water jacket and when I get into boost Im forcing air into the water system. I dont want to tear down my top end unless im sure because this is my daily driver and it cold outside yet. Anybody have any thoughts on what is going on.

timeless2 · Mar 2, 2006

Have you confirmed all the air has been purged from the system?

just4bob50 · Mar 2, 2006

I was pretty sure that I had all the air out because of the stable engine temps. When I had air pockets in it before the temps would spike to 250-260 for a few seconds and then drop again. It hasnt done that in weeks now.

Rick 91GT · Mar 2, 2006

You could be lifting the head and pressurizing the coolant system.... Really doesn't sound like air in the system but Fords are a PIA sometimes with that.

Jack the front end of the car up in the air as high as you can get it, pull the cap off the rad and start the car to help try to pull more air out. Most garages can vaccum the system as well if needed.

just4bob50 · Mar 2, 2006

I was going to go to a radiator shop and have them to a power flush. If I have that done and still the problem occurs then what.

srothfuss · Mar 2, 2006

Is the issue extra coolant going into the overflow bottle as you romp on the car? Isn't that normal? Don't things expand as they heat up?

To purge my car of any air pockets:
With the motor cold, remove the rad cap
Check / Fill the rad so it's full before you start
Start the car in the driveway and turn the heater on defrost
After about 15minutes or so, the thermostat should open and the level in the radiator will drop
Add coolant in the radaitor so it's full while the fluid continues to drop.
Let it run for a few more minutes to verify that it's full. This should eliminate all air bubbles in your system (it works for me at least)

timeless2 · Mar 2, 2006

srothfuss said:
To purge my car of any air pockets:
With the motor cold, remove the rad cap
Check / Fill the rad so it's full before you start
Start the car in the driveway and turn the heater on defrost
After about 15minutes or so, the thermostat should open and the level in the radiator will drop
Add coolant in the radaitor so it's full while the fluid continues to drop.
Let it run for a few more minutes to verify that it's full. This should eliminate all air bubbles in your system (it works for me at least)

Great information.
In addition to this, it helps to increase the engine speed to 2000 rpm for short bursts (15 to 25 seconds) to have the water pump impeller churn the coolant through the jackets and hoses more quickly, as to simulate driving conditions. This, of course, does not apply if you have an electric water pump.

just4bob50 · Mar 2, 2006

Quote
To purge my car of any air pockets:
With the motor cold, remove the rad cap
Check / Fill the rad so it's full before you start
Start the car in the driveway and turn the heater on defrost
After about 15minutes or so, the thermostat should open and the level in the radiator will drop
Add coolant in the radaitor so it's full while the fluid continues to drop.
Let it run for a few more minutes to verify that it's full. This should eliminate all air bubbles in your system (it works for me at least)

4u2nv said:
Great information.
In addition to this, it helps to increase the engine speed to 2000 rpm for short bursts (15 to 25 seconds) to have the water pump impeller churn the coolant through the jackets and hoses more quickly, as to simulate driving conditions. This, of course, does not apply if you have an electric water pump.

I did all of the above while on car ramps. It was after this that i was finally able to get consistant coolant temps and good heat. My valve covers have never been off the motor and it has about 110,000 miles on it. I thought about what Rick was saying, and was wondering if I should re-tourque the head bolts.

srothfuss · Mar 2, 2006

Yeah, if you completed what I and 4u2nv posted than start looking else where.

timeless2 · Mar 2, 2006

This may sound trivial, but I cannot find if/where you mentioned it...did you replace the radiator cap?
We have to rule out all coolant related items first, before you go tearing into it, in my opinion.

just4bob50 · Mar 2, 2006

No I havent replaced the cap yet. I was thinking of getting one tommorrow at autozone. The factory cap says 16psi. should I stay with that psi.

vristang · Mar 2, 2006

I've never done it, but have heard that emissions testing probes can be used to find HG leaks. Just run the car hard to duplicate the problem you are having, and stick the probe in the overflow tank. If there are any HCs picked up by the probe, then most likely it is coming from a HG leak.
Any emission shop or dyno shop should be able to do this?

Anyone actually done this?

jason

getusummm · Mar 2, 2006

I just went through the same problems. How long ago did you put the blower on? When did you start having the problem? As soon as I put my powerdyne on, I started pressurising the coolant system everytime I got into boost. I could drive for hours as long as i didnt get into boost. I finally ran it hard enough to blow the head gaskets. #2,3,6, and 7 were blown on the top going from the cylinder to the small hole in the gasket. Replaced the factory heads with some track heats and studs and now all my problems are solved.

just4bob50 · Mar 3, 2006

getusummm said:
I just went through the same problems. How long ago did you put the blower on? When did you start having the problem? As soon as I put my powerdyne on, I started pressurising the coolant system everytime I got into boost. I could drive for hours as long as i didnt get into boost. I finally ran it hard enough to blow the head gaskets. #2,3,6, and 7 were blown on the top going from the cylinder to the small hole in the gasket. Replaced the factory heads with some track heats and studs and now all my problems are solved.

I have had the charger on since last april, but that was jus the 6lb pulley. Then a couple of months ago my internal drive belt went out so I had a 9lb pulley put on. A few weeks ago I went to the dyno for some base pulls to make sure my AFR didnt get lean with the extra boost. I made 4 runs over the course of 20 min. and the car was fine. Made about 8.5lbs of boost on the dyno but more like 10.5lbs on the street. My AFR was way rich to the point that after 5200 rpms the AFR dropped off the graph. I have been putting off a retune because of trying to solve the problem.

Mike97gt · Mar 3, 2006

you still have some air in the system. at work i use a vacumm bleed setup .it goes right into the radiator and uses shop air. cost about 150 bucks or so. but if you have a few other friends that do there own work might be a good idea to split the cost. this thing makes cooling system bleeding easy.

Air in coolant system ( S.O.S. )

just4bob50

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timeless2

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Rick 91GT

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