ALL AFR/FTI Stangers, I need your dyno #'s !

Stangfreak95

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Nov 4, 2002
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Hey guys. I'm hitting the dyno in 13days (yes I am counting :D) and I'd like to see what everybody with AFR/FTI gets on there. I know the average combo gets about 300rwhp and 320-330lbs of torque at the wheels but I wanna see your very "own" numbers please.

Also specify what kind of dyno you were on.

And to keep this TECH, should I use my 26x10x15 ET Drags on there, or should I use my cheap 245/50/16 Kuhmos that I use for daily driving ?? Does it really matter ?
(btw, I miss my BFG Drag radials so much :( )

Thanks
 
dyno2.jpg
 
I know I'm the "red headed step-child" of the group...but how about my twisted wedge head numbers? I still have Performer/FTI cam. My cam has similar lift, but ~8-10 degrees less duration then Rootus and GTJake, my car is a daily driver.
 
zenboy99 said:
I know I'm the "red headed step-child" of the group...but how about my twisted wedge head numbers? I still have Performer/FTI cam. My cam has similar lift, but ~8-10 degrees less duration then Rootus and GTJake, my car is a daily driver.

Yes that is great. Those heads are similar and make great power. I should of put this in the original thread. Everybody else with Trickflow Twisted Wedge and an FTI cam is also welcome :nice:

And about the tires...should I use slicks or my cheap daily tires ? I'm debating because those tires make the car break loose in 3rd gear when I floor it (depends where but it happens..) so I dont want them to spin or whatever else not good for my numbers ..
 
GTJake said:
8 less on the intake and 4 less on the exhuast. My cam is pretty mild....I wish I would've asked Ed for something a little bit more wild.

Jake

You're right. You save your e-mails too huh?

When I first installed the cam, my car started right up and ran fine. I almsot re-degreed it to make sure I had the right one. Now I really wish I would have asked Ed for a bigger cam. I think I screwed up when I told him that I had 3 stop lights on my way to work. Ed's just too good at grinding cams, I don't know why every naturally aspirated, stock shortblock guy on this forum doesn't have his cam.
 
With your expected power, you won't break the tires loose on the dyno. cylinder on cylinder, not cylinder on flat pavement.

As far as dimensions of tires, etc. I've heard things about slight discrepencies, but I'm not fully informed on that. I'll leave that for someone else to answer
 
GTJake said:
I wish I would've asked Ed for something a little bit more wild.

Jake


That was my first mistake when I ordered my first FTI cam. I ended up with a weak untuned around 300rwhp :(

I made SURE I didn't ask for a weak ass cam for the 347 ;)
 
final5-0 said:
Mario

I don't know why your street tires would cause a prob for your dyno session.

Later
Grady

Grady, I've never seen a dynorun in my life (except on vids) and dont really know how everything works. Was only wondering if those crappy tires would cause something negative in the runs. I mean I've seen cars burning out on the dyno but also they had huge amount of hp. I'm far from there but the fact that I break loose everytime I floor it was making me want to put my slicks for more traction/stability, if that even matters on the dyno. I guess I'll just use the street tires then if you all say so.. :)

And thanks for the graphs everybody :nice:
 
Stangfreak- my dad spun his ET streets on the dyno about two weeks ago when we had it dyno'd! It was a freaky site to see smoke come from the tires on the dyno!

I would put the wheel on the car that you race with. This way you'll know what you are making at the wheels in the form your race it on. The lighter the wheel you put on the back the more RWHP you will see. If you run the ET drags on the dyno you can pump them up to say 25lbs of air and run them that way. This will give you less rolling resistance (especially if they are mounted on a 9 or even 8" wheel since they will "crown" in the middle) and in therory more rwhp. These are the little tricks people use to inflate their RWHP numbers. Hell, if you have time make a pull with the street wheels and then with the ET drags and see what the results are. I don't see it being worth more than ~5rwhp, but it may.
 
Killercanary said:
Stangfreak- my dad spun his ET streets on the dyno about two weeks ago when we had it dyno'd! It was a freaky site to see smoke come from the tires on the dyno!

What !! Isnt he making just about 350rwhp ? I mean this is very very good for a N/A 302 but I'm very surprised that he was making a smoke show on the dyno specially with ET Street :nice: :hail2:

I would put the wheel on the car that you race with. This way you'll know what you are making at the wheels in the form your race it on. The lighter the wheel you put on the back the more RWHP you will see. If you run the ET drags on the dyno you can pump them up to say 25lbs of air and run them that way. This will give you less rolling resistance (especially if they are mounted on a 9 or even 8" wheel since they will "crown" in the middle) and in therory more rwhp. These are the little tricks people use to inflate their RWHP numbers. Hell, if you have time make a pull with the street wheels and then with the ET drags and see what the results are. I don't see it being worth more than ~5rwhp, but it may.

I had some 15x8 Prostars but sold them to get some 15x10 instead. They would of worked fine on the 26x10x15 ET Drags but thr 10in wheel is the recommended size on MT's website.

I wont have time to do much up there unfortunately. Only going for 3pulls so changing tires is out of the question..

So my 245's + stock 16"waffle-------> about 45pds each complete wheel
My 26x10x15 and 10in Prostars-----------> 38pds total each

:shrug: