all you TREMEC TR3550 guys:

Blackened302

Active Member
Jul 21, 2005
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South TX
how do you like them? found one off a 95 for $650 (with bellhousing) and am probably gonna go get it tomorrow morning asap.

questions:

can i use my existing clutch? starter? flywheel? driveshaft?

if not, what do i have to change/upgrade? thanks.

guy's got a bassani X, too, and an aluminum driveshaft.
 
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as long as its 10 spline(should be) you can still use your clutch.

starter/flywheel will be fine ds will probably need a spacer. alltho its not 100% needed (the yoke is long enough to still go in pretty far)
 
You'll need a spacer..and unless you got the tko version of the 3550 then it's 10 spline.

I could be wrong on this since my car came with a 3550 and I haven't really looked at it...but you may need a fox clutch fork. Just something to double check
 
You'll definitely need the fox fork. I would also recommend a 3/8" spacer...I got mine from Steeda. Also start looking at some of the threads here and on corral about the Tremec vibration problems. Seems like guys have been able to shim their trans so the driveshaft angle is correct and eliminate the notorious high speed vibration.

Good luck and great find.
 
just took mine out lastnight. I had my old automatic driveshaft on there and fits quite nice.

if the input shaft is 10 spline then you can use your current clutch setup but like said, you need a fox clutch fork. get yourself some heatshielding and noise deadening stuff to put over the tranny tunnel because that makes more heat and noise than a T-5. the shifter is different so make sure you get one for a T3550.
 
alright, thanks Prokiller. dynomat should do the trick, no?

i should be able to count the splines so i'll make sure it's 10. tranny comes w/ the shifter that's on it (think it's a pro5.0) so i don't have to worry about that. i'll see what kind of deal he'll give me on the aluminum driveshaft. thanks again, gents!
 
alright, just got back from the salvage yard.

got the tremec, clutch fork, steeda tri-ax, clutch + pressure plate, aluminum driveshaft, and a bassani x-pipe for 800. thanks for the assistance, gentlemen.
 
thanks, tom! lord knows i definately needed a tranny upgrade. my t5 was gargling bits of syncros and bearings!

they didn't know how many miles were on the trans, but the car was a 95 and had 127k. i doubt the tranny had that many, though. gonna get it in this weekend and test it out. hopefuly it won't be too good to be true and i'll have my tranny issues solved for when i get the new gt40p engine in in a couple weeks. it came w/ a 30-day warranty.

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oh also your gonna want to measure from the ground to where the output shaft on your current T5 is before you remove it. that way when you get the tremec in there you can add spacers if needed (i needed to raise mine 3/4"). i used stock crossmember and mount then added a plate above and below the mount.
 
i would pop that shifter off and change that oil before putting it in. if you can get GM synchromesh put that in. thats an awesome deal you got there. :nice:

about the dynamat, i don't how much that insulates heat....the T3550 generates a lot more heat than a T5 and you might be better off getting something some kind of heat sheilding
 
urban: i know you said you used the stock crossmember, but does the tremec installation usually require another crossmember?

i ask because i've been told that i won't be able to use the stocker, but the one on the car it came off of (95 5.0) looked stock..?
 
urban: i know you said you used the stock crossmember, but does the tremec installation usually require another crossmember?

i ask because i've been told that i won't be able to use the stocker, but the one on the car it came off of (95 5.0) looked stock..?
yep reused the stock one. i searched around for what other people did with theirs and some just turned theirs backwards, some didnt and i couldnt really find a clear answer. a lot of people had problems with vibrations from the driveline not being level anymore and i read a post where someone suggested measuring the position of the stock t5 output shaft (ground to shaft, shaft to tunnel ect.).

after i removed the d/s and other stuff i took some measurements and wrote it all down then after i got the 3550 in i got out the tape measure and got it into position. used the stock trans crossmember, stock rubber mount and just added a 1/2" spacer above the rubber mount and a 1/4" spacer below it and the bolts were still long enough to go through and thread all the way in.
ill look for the pics i have of the spacers