Almost ready to swap in my t5...Q's inside

MrBobMarley

Founding Member
Oct 7, 2002
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Ft Myers, FL
Hey guys, I'm itching to start ripping that ol c4 outta my car, but I'm not done rounding up the swap parts yet. My engine and tranny are stock 289/3 spd auto. From my searches on this forum and a lot of other sites, I think I know all that I need to do this thing.

got it - Rebuilt t5 (89 stang)
got it - t5 bellhousing and clutch fork
got it - new clutch 10.5" (free)
not yet - mustang steve master kit (pedals, quadrant, cable etc)
not yet - pilot bearing
not yet - 28 oz flywheel
not yet - speedo driven gear
not yet - new crossmember
not yet - 28 spline slip yoke
not yet - driveshaft modidfication?

I was just reading the fordmuscle swap page and it said that the 10.5" clutch will not fit my 28 oz flywheel?
The 50oz. flywheels are also drilled for the larger 10.5" diaphagm clutch, which the 28oz. flywheels must use the early style 10" three-finger clutches.

So should I have a shop machine a 50oz flywheel for me or is there another solution? Also which crossmember would you go with, windsor fox, modern driveline, someone else?
 
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RE: xmember, I dont know that one is clearly superior to the rest. I used one from Dark Horse Performance, its fine, but its not the only one.

If you want the 10.5 clutch, then I *think* you have to use the late-model flywheel. A machine shop can rebalance a 50oz flywheel to 28oz easily..the shop I use charges $50 to do that, and will sell the wheel+the 28oz rebalance outright for $100.

BTW, you maynot need the yoke - the C4 yoke will fit the T5 splines. The issue will be if the resulting d/s is too long. The consensus seems to be that in the 65/66 cars it will def be too long, its case-by-case on the 67/68s. Mine was NOT too long, so I did not have to cut my driveshaft. If you need to, a d/s shop will charge ~50-75 typically to cut, weld, and rebalance.
 
Cool, thanks man. I've been thinkin about the d/s issue for a while now. I think it would probably be worth it to just go ahead and order a new aluminum one made to fit. Are you using the stock shifter or aftermarket? I'm just about sold on the steeda tri-ax, my buds all run them and they are a crisp, no nonsense shifter to me.
 
i have a 65, originally had a c4 tranny, swapped it out for a t5 from a 88. The drive shaft and slip yoke fit right in. Didn't have to do anything to the driveshaft. 1 less problem that i didn't have to deal with.
 
MrBobMarley said:
Cool, thanks man. I've been thinkin about the d/s issue for a while now. I think it would probably be worth it to just go ahead and order a new aluminum one made to fit. Are you using the stock shifter or aftermarket? I'm just about sold on the steeda tri-ax, my buds all run them and they are a crisp, no nonsense shifter to me.

I use a Hurst T5 shifter, with a retrofitted Comp Plus handle/lever.
 
I think you can just get the flywheel redrilled for the 10.5" clutch. make sure whatever you get is 157 tooth. If you don't have a flywheel yet, you can buy a 157 tooth 28oz from summit or ebay. or get a 50oz late model flywheel rebalanced as mentioned.

I had to shorten my driveshaft 3/4" and I used my toplader yoke.

I used the Ron Morris Performance crossmember. Was pricey, but a very nice piece.
 
i got my 28oz flywheel from summit.. Its a FPRP for like 260 if i rember... Im running a 10.5 "king cobra" FPRP clutch.

oh and i used dark horse x-member... with a BFH, didnt fit real well out of the box, but my frame might be tweaked or something...
 
i got my 28oz flywheel from summit.. Its a FPRP for like 260 if i rember... Im running a 10.5 "king cobra" FPRP clutch.

But I see you are running a 351. I have a 289. Will the 10.5 in clutch work with a 28oz flywheel on a 289?

And thanks for the info guys, appreciate it.

Btw, I ordered a crossmember from modern driveline. I hope it's here soon. Will have tons of pics of the swap and a possible write up too.