alright i'm dreaming out loud again

[trav_19]

sounds like your best bet would not be a pre planned "package" this way you can get your forged crank and the pistons of your choice you can have a hard time finding a kit with everything you want without paying top dollar

 

[BlackVert]

the good thing about lower compression is that you can use lower octane gas while not running boost. with gas prices like they are that can only be good.

with so many cubic inches, the torque will still be great.

when i was planning my 331, i was going to go with about 9.5 compression so that i could boost it later. with a 410, i really don't have any desire at all for boost, especially since it is a 100% daily driver type street car.

a compression change calculator ...

http://www.bgsoflex.com/crchange.html

 

[sn-95matt5-0]

thanks guys for the input

this gives me alot to think about while i'm saving up for the build


can you give me an idea of wat type of work the actual car needs done before the motor would be able to drop in? wat stuff other than the motor would yall recommend looking into getting? wat fuel upgrades would be the best to go with?(i was thinking about just getting 42# injectors so i shouldnt ever have to worry bout getting bigger)would i need to change all the fuel lines or just put in bigger fuel pumps? wat kinda extra frame work would i need done to help prevent chasis warp from the new torque??

amd after reading about blackverts new 4r70w tranny i believe i may go with one too(i like my auto i just wish there was more performance to be got out of it)

 

[sn-95matt5-0]

hey you guys that are using chp kits

it says that these kits are ment for 9.500 blocks not the 69 and 70 9.48 and that there may be problems with using these kits with these blocks.

what are you doing for the extra clearance and would anything need to be done if i was to go ahead and use the dish pistons??

 

[BlackVert]

i don't know. i would ask chp. and i would try not to get one of those blocks

 

[sn-95matt5-0]

blackvert:so is the engine block that you have is a 9.500 block

wat is the cutt off year for the super strong 69+ blocks

 

[BlackVert]

blackvert:so is the engine block that you have is a 9.500 block

wat is the cutt off year for the super strong 69+ blocks

mine is a 1971; it is after the years you mentioned, so i'm guessing it's a 9.5, but i'm not sure. i can research it and let you know.

iirc, the blocks from 1975-1985 have a reputation for poor casting. they are the ones to stay away from.

by the way, mine has flat top pistons and it ended up with 10.27:1 static compression

 

[sn-95matt5-0]

alright thanks for the information i appreciate it alot

with the compression calculator that you posted it said if i did your combo but with a compression ratio of 9.5:1 i would still be at 441(that is i put the first horse power at 450)

i would be extremely happy with that(or anywhere over 400rwhp) and have the option to turbo or supercharge later on.

wat all needs to be taken in conserderation on changing the compression ratio

 

[BlackVert]

according to my book, 351 blocks before 1974 have a 9.480" deck.

 

[sn-95matt5-0]

when people say that the new (90s model blocks) are weaker by how much weaker are they

it may just be easier and cheaper to go with a 90s model block but if it has like a 500hp breaking point like the 302 would it be worth the extra effort to do that over an awesome 347

but man i would love to just say "yeah its a supercharged(or turboed) 408w" (oneday of course)

 

[trav_19]

i think there strenght excided a 302 potential no matter what year it is...and if you want to stay fuel injected i think it would be easist to get a 90's block to begin your project

 

[BlackVert]

the only years to stay away from are the 75-85 years because the casting quality was poor. after that, they are good again, but the earlier ones have more iron so they are stronger. still, the late model roller blocks are without a doubt stronger than are the 302s from the same years.

 

[sn-95matt5-0]

alright guys thanks for the info so all the late model fords that are 5.8L engines are 351w right(they dont make a DOHC motor bigger than a 5.4L is wat i'm asking)

and is there any easy way to spot a 351w truck(or any vehicle)are they a special edition or anything.

and wat year did they quit producing the 351w

thanks for putting up with my questions

o and wat is the price of just the machine work and gettin a short block assymbled(on average or wat it costed yall) i would like to do the rest i'm just afraid of the rotating assymbly...

dad rebuilt his old 289 66 mustang back when he was in high school and he thinks we can probably just handle it, but i was wondering instead of ripping a motor out of a truck and paying someone to put together a short block would it be more wise to try and save for a complete short assymbly from chp or dss

 

[trav_19]

i believe the last year the 5.8l was used in the trucks was 1995 in 96 they switched bodystyles and motors

i would look into a coast high performance stroker kit they have a 408 im getting cheap with really good quality parts

i could be wrong it might be 96 or 97 because they used the same old bodystyle in the f250 and f350 platforms

 

[sn-95matt5-0]

alright i'm almost ready to paint the car....
i got the cash to buy the parts i just got to order them..
and since i'm so close to getting that under way i decided to talk to the local salvage yard about the 351w...

all he has at the moment is a complete engine out of a 1988 van....thats not in the years that where the crap blocks but its also not a exceptionally strong block or a roller block either...would you guys pick up the complete engine for 150 bucks or would youo wait for one of the "better" blocks (when i say better i mean early 70s or mid 90s blocks)

 

[BlackVert]

i'd try to find one that has a hydraulic roller cam. otherwise, you won't be able to use a hydraulic roller cam directly. the conversion with the spider hold down doesn't really cut it (you still need a cam with a smaller base circle), and the other option, link bar lifters, is not cheap (around $550 just for the lifters).

i'm guessing that 351 is a carburated motor too? if so, you'd also need a new efi distributor, another few hundred $$$. but you'll probably want a new dizzy anyway just to be sure it is in good working order.

but $150 sounds like a pretty good price for a complete motor. if you don't mind spending the money for the link bar lifters, then this could work.

 

[sn-95matt5-0]

yea i know this project is goin to cost alot and i want to do it right just like everything else on my car (from now on that is ever since i got ripped) this project is on the back burner for my to do list but i was just wondering if this was an oportunity that i needed to just up(i got the extra room in dads old work shop for a motor stand)

 

[BlackVert]

then i'd say just take your time, live clean, and keep your eyes open for a roller block. the lord will drop one in your lap at the right time.

sorry, i'm a religious man.

 

[sn-95matt5-0]

i am too man not as much as i should be but God has really blessed me

and you should never apologize for your religous beliefs


but yea i'll probably just wait untill something "better" pops up...
thanks for the advice blackvert as i get deeper into this build build i'll probably be looking for your help along with the other guys that have done this type of engine swap