it could be that the fuse is blown. it could be a few other things too. make sure your belt is very tight and not slipping at all. you may want to take a look at the ignitions switch because if it is burnt up or melted on part of it it might not be getting a good enough connection on one wire.. there is one wire on there, i forget which one, but it has something to do with telling the alternator when to turn on.
If you have a test light, you can check for battery voltage on each lug of the fuse.
If you have the fuse on a bench, and you have a DMM, you can check continuity between both halves of the wafer.
On your fuse, maybe you can see the fuse element if you remove the fuse and look at the back side of it. The elements generally look like a Z (or N, depending upon how you hold the fuse).
FYI, if you have a Harbor Freight near you, they often have DMM's on sale for under 5 bucks. They work just fine (I've been using them as throw-away meters for years).
Good luck bud.
If you have the fuse on a bench, and you have a DMM, you can check continuity between both halves of the wafer.
On your fuse, maybe you can see the fuse element if you remove the fuse and look at the back side of it. The elements generally look like a Z (or N, depending upon how you hold the fuse).
FYI, if you have a Harbor Freight near you, they often have DMM's on sale for under 5 bucks. They work just fine (I've been using them as throw-away meters for years).
Good luck bud.
One side of the fuse should have shown battery voltage even if the fuse was blown.
Be sure the battery in the meter is good.
With the car off: Test the battery again. Then move the positive meter lead to the alt and test the charge stud like you tested the battery. The readings should be the same. If there's a meaningful difference, tell us what it is. If there's no difference, the fuse should be ok.
If there was no difference, test both again with the car running. Something might have been not connected decently with the meter. Set it to the 20 DCV scale.
Be sure the battery in the meter is good.
With the car off: Test the battery again. Then move the positive meter lead to the alt and test the charge stud like you tested the battery. The readings should be the same. If there's a meaningful difference, tell us what it is. If there's no difference, the fuse should be ok.
If there was no difference, test both again with the car running. Something might have been not connected decently with the meter. Set it to the 20 DCV scale.
If you got those weird readings at the alternator while the car was off, chances are it was just a bad test (something was wrong with how the probes were touching the terminals).
The heat should not have hurt the wire. I had to cut and modify my terminals too (I cut a chunk out of the top of the circle, closed the ring, and then reconnected the ends).
Testing the alt sounds good. A short could have fried part of the reg circuit or a diode. The fact that your 2G works means the regulator wiring itself should be fine.
The heat should not have hurt the wire. I had to cut and modify my terminals too (I cut a chunk out of the top of the circle, closed the ring, and then reconnected the ends).
Testing the alt sounds good. A short could have fried part of the reg circuit or a diode. The fact that your 2G works means the regulator wiring itself should be fine.
If the power cable is disconnected or you pulled the fuse (you don't want power going through a circuit when you're measuring resistance) set the meter to one of the Ω scales and measure across the fuse. If the fuse is good the meter should read zero (or pretty darn close). If the fuse is blown the meter will read 'OL' or give some type of 'open' indication.
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