Electrical Alternator not charging after terminator 2 install.

I run a procharger,

Yes Nicky, it seems like it….. I was just talking to a friend of mine earlier which I did his Terminator X swap and we were counting how many I’ve done I think I’m at 11 or 12 of them now, and yes, I guess you could say Murphy’s Law has found me
 
Hey all thanks for all the help, unfortunately up here in Canada don’t get to drive in the winter time, ha ha so I picked up where I’ve left off and does anyone find it strange, I have my test light hooked up to the negative side of the battery And my light on the alternator body and the light lights up, which is quite strange but no wiring shorts or anything car runs, but again only getting 12 V on my terminator 2 tuner and with voltmeter at battery, even with ignition on test, light light is on when touching the alternator battery. Any suggestions?
 

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If the diode in the alternator is bad, it can back-feed.

Disconnect you alternator wires one-by-one and repeat your trouble-light test. The feed wire will send juice back through the alt to the chassis if the diode has failed but with the engine running, will charge like normal.

Trouble is: You have a dead battery any time it sits for any length of time.
 
If the diode in the alternator is bad, it can back-feed.

Disconnect you alternator wires one-by-one and repeat your trouble-light test. The feed wire will send juice back through the alt to the chassis if the diode has failed but with the engine running, will charge like normal.

Trouble is: You have a dead battery any time it sits for any length of time.
Thanks very much for the reply! I actually have a brand new battery in it
 
And also with engine running, it wasn’t charging at all either which I’m finding very quite strange. I’ve also disconnected the two wires that go to the positive post on the alternator black with orange. I did that first off and it still wasn’t charging.
 
This is a 3G alternator, and I put a new one in today and instead of my test light being super bright like before, it’s very dim light now, but still running 11.9v, very very strange… question… peeps that are running a holy terminator to set up are you connecting your two black wires with orange tracers to the back of the alternator and to the positive side of the starter solenoid?
 
I don’t think your ECU makes one difference in how a 3G swap works. I have one on a carb setup and one on a EEC-IV setup and both are wired the same.

The two black wires cannot carry the current that the 3G puts out so you need to run a single 4 ga wire with a 125A fuse from the post on the alternator to the battery side of the original starter solenoid (not the one on the mini starter if you have one installed) or directly to the positive terminal on the battery. The rest of the wiring is pretty straight forward.

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