Alternators

Do a 3G conversion - use a J/Y alt from a 94-95 Mustang - cost is $20-$50. Or just buy a remanufactured alt from the auto parts store & use you old alt for the core.

Here's websites with pictures of the 3G installation...

See http://www.geocities.com/smithmonte/Auto/3G_130A_Alternator_Upgrade.htm - all the tech data you could ever want to know
OR
http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/alternator.html - excellent pictures of installation

Use these sites for information on the right way to do the wiring. Some people will tell you that you can skip the wiring upgrade, but it will catch up with you sooner or later. A fire in the wiring harness is ugly and expensive.

Under no circumstances connect the two 10 gauge black/white wires to the 3G alternator. If the fuse blows in the 4 gauge wire, the two 10 gauge wires will be overloaded to the point of catching fire and burning up the wiring harness.

The secondary power ground is between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It is often missing or loose. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges. Any car that has a 3G alternator needs a 4 gauge ground wire running from the block to the chassis ground where the battery pigtail ground connects.

Electric fan = 3G alternator if you want long life & reliability from your car.
The electric fan saves some HP. The stock fan's parasitic drag runs from 7-12 HP depending on who you talk to. The electric fan uses about 1/2 HP of power from the electrical system.

Figure this:
Ignition system & computer = 12 amps
Fuel pump = 12 amps
Exterior lights = 15 amps
Fan (heater or A/C) = 15 amps (can run between 5-25 amps depending on setting)
Radio & instruments = 10 amps
Wipers = 10 amps

That's grand total of 74 amps from a 65 amp alternator. Talk about overdrawn at the bank!

See WWW.partsexpress.com for the fuse & fuse holder.
Fuse @ $3.90 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=071-952

Fuseholder @ $5.80 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=263-630

4 gauge black wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-196

4 gauge red wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-194

4 gauge ring crimp terminals (package of 5) $3.25. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=095-584

3/4 “ Black heat shrink tubing, 4ft length, $3.39
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=082-058

3/4 “ Red heat shrink tubing, 4ft length, $3.39
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=082-064


Pre-fab 4 gauge cables with lugs already on the ends are available in most auto parts stores. Look for the starter switch to starter cables.

shlby123 said:

wow. that sounds pretty in-depth.

Click to expand...

its really not and is your best alternative

It's very easy... I'll be doing this shortly.

take off the old alternator
use a saw or grinder (for clearance on the bracket)
Splice into the correct (white / black?) wire.
Plug in the connector
Run your 4 gauge wire to the starter solenoid on the driver fender.

Doesn't seem that hard.

The other alternative is to get a 130 amp 2G from a place like PA-Performance. It still requires a cable upgrade but it's a drop fit.

i did the 3g from a 94 GT and it was pretty simple and straight forward. Worst part is the clearanceing of the bracket. I may soon be stepping up to the 200 amp alternator soon though.

yup i just did this same mod myself last weekend in about two hours all said and done. I got a used 3g 130amp from a junkyard with a lifetime warranty for 65 bucks...picked up all the connectors and wires and i used a big circuit breaker instead of a fuse! real easy install and there are directions floating around stangnet just do a search. the difference is insane...good luck

I did the mod from start to finish in about an hour.I have a 130 amp alternator on E-Bay just like the one I used for 425.00.Look under Vinnietbird.It even has the pigtails.I had the unit checked and it is in great shape.I got mine from a Taurus with the 3.0 V-6.The swap is actually one of the easiest,best upgrades you can do,in my own opinion.It's also a cheap upgrade with great results.Good Luck.

I am going to be installing a powermaster 140 amp alt this weekend, and I was told all I had to do was hook it up and I would be fine. Is this true?

ok, you know what i'm going to say. 3G - sticky sticky sticky!!!!!!!!!:SNSign:

do the 3g swap, there are alot of good articles, the problem is some of them have differences in how to do the wiring. there's enough posts in here and people too help if you have any questions........been there done that!!

you can do the wiring numerous ways....but you do need to run a thicker wire from the alternator to the starter solenoid and you will need some type of fuselink, inline fuse, or circuit breaker. good luck man

Follow the links I posted, lots of good info & pictures.

Daggar said:

The other alternative is to get a 130 amp 2G from a place like PA-Performance. It still requires a cable upgrade but it's a drop fit.

Click to expand...

I put the PA Performance kit with 3G alternator in my 92. It is FANTASTIC! Headlights are bright even with the heat, rear defog and wipers on (and the radio blaring). I recommend it.