Aluminum Drive Shaft

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They look to be $30 apart in price. The FRPP shaft is tried and true, don't know much about the summit, but it has good reviews.

I am GA, so the summit shaft would cost me $21 in tax. The FRPP shaft can be had with free shipping from other vendors out of state. For me, i would stick with the FRPP.

Joe
 
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I have a frpp driveshaft in my junk for the past 15 years, it had the snot beat out of it try'n to fix a bucking problem that was self inflicted, still tru blu
Compare the wall thickness , tube diameter and type of ujoints used in each, but to be real for the difference in price on a stock or a mild build daily driver the money can be spent in better places, or find a used one and have new ujoints installed and balanced.
 
I have a frpp driveshaft in my junk for the past 15 years, it had the snot beat out of it try'n to fix a bucking problem that was self inflicted, still tru blu
Compare the wall thickness , tube diameter and type of ujoints used in each, but to be real for the difference in price on a stock or a mild build daily driver the money can be spent in better places, or find a used one and have new ujoints installed and balanced.

Thanks for the feedback, karthief. That's good info. I think I'll go with the alum frpp since it seems to be less hassle than having new ujoints installed and shaft balanced. I have a vibration that starts at 55mph. While I realize that the shot ujoints are probably part of this problem, I'll just go ahead and get the alum drive shaft in case my drive shaft is part of the problem also. I wasn't sure if the "one piece" was worth the extra $$.

-Kevin
 
They are all 'one piece' for the fox cars, unless you count the yoke and flange, aluminum driveshafts can be a larger diameter and sometimes interfere with exhaust pipes, likely no problem just check to be sure.
New ujoints and a balance are less money than a aluminum shaft and you will never notice the difference. But they do look cool when your cars on a lift.
 
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Only issue I have with my AL shaft is it rubs the parking brake cables.

Other that that....it looks sexy
And I thought that I was the only one with that problem...

Seriously, I think that it only happens when there is a rear disk brake conversion done with a correctly set up parking brake cabling system.
 
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Back in the days I had the FRPP one in my '96 GT and moved it to my '02 GT. When I bought my fox it was one of the first things I bought. My car is smooth as silk on the highway.
 
Finished the alum drive shaft installation tonight and just got back from the test drive about 30 minutes ago.
Disclaimer - rear u-joints on old drive shaft were shot.
I'm impressed. I can't believe how much smoother she shifts, accelerates and drives. No more vibrations at 55-60 mph. IMHO, worth every penny

-Kevin
 
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There is no doubt that an aluminum drive shaft is an upgrade from the iron stick that has been used, and all the rage in new rear wheel drive cars and trucks.
For a stock ride or even a mildly modified ride if you replace the ujoints and give it a balancing act, you've spent less than half the money and you would be just as pleased.
But it shore do look good when you pull into that jiffy lube place and that guy in the pit see's your shiny shaft :stick:
And for the record, yes, I have one too because they look cool and everybody has one!
 
Price one out for a S197 and be glad the driveshaft for a Fox does not cost as much as one for those cars...north of $700. It is the reason the Bullitt still has the stock 2 piece heavy as hell driveshaft still in it.
 
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