aluminum driveshaft

hsean

10 Year Member

Jul 24, 2006

656

69

69

dearborn,michigan

Dec 2, 2008

#21

• Dec 2, 2008

• #21

i am going to buy one in an hour you guys sold me on it.now if i could get an even trade for a 3.73 for my 4.10

 

MAC'n89Blckstng

Active Member

Jun 11, 2003

1,012

4

36

NJ

Dec 2, 2008

#22

• Dec 2, 2008

• #22

I put one on my car and it was my favorite (non go fast) mod I put on my car. I got her up to 140-150 ish and the car was as smooth as glass. I will never run a stock driveshaft ever again. Oh and you shave a whole lot more than 3-4 pounds. I would say the aluminum shaft is about half the weight of the stock steel shaft.

 

hsean

10 Year Member

Jul 24, 2006

656

69

69

dearborn,michigan

Dec 2, 2008

#23

• Dec 2, 2008

• #23

i picked it up for a hundred bucks and boy it is light the guy has this motor on an engine stang that is all done up with heads and all kind of machine work.he says that the motor will make my car a 12 second car if i put the right cam .it gives me something to think about i have a stock 88 roller motor with an upper and lower cobra intake.the lower is mildly ported.if i were to go with this motor than i would have to keep my cage because i have a t-top car.

 

Dino Dino Bambino

15 Year Member

Jun 13, 2007

1,672

89

79

Cyprus

Dec 3, 2008

#24

• Dec 3, 2008

• #24

MAC'n89Blckstng said:

I would say the aluminum shaft is about half the weight of the stock steel shaft.

Click to expand...

You're close. I've weighed both and the stock steel driveshaft is 20lb while the aluminium unit is 11lb.

 

MAC'n89Blckstng

Active Member

Jun 11, 2003

1,012

4

36

NJ

Dec 3, 2008

#25

• Dec 3, 2008

• #25

lol, pretty good for a guess. Thats alot of rotational mass.

 

Metalcop

Active Member

Jun 6, 2004

148

1

28

New Hampshire

Dec 3, 2008

#26

• Dec 3, 2008

• #26

Don't forget the the junkyard option, the aluminum driveshaft out of certain year AWD Aerostars is the same part the Ford Racing gouges you $300+/- for.

 

hsean

10 Year Member

Jul 24, 2006

656

69

69

dearborn,michigan

Dec 3, 2008

#27

• Dec 3, 2008

• #27

the guy i bought this from told me it might need some new u joints and that they are fairly cheap .where can i buy this from?

 

cenok is family

15 Year Member

Jun 25, 2003

1,409

69

79

Norman, Ok

Dec 4, 2008

#28

• Dec 4, 2008

• #28

hsean said:

the guy i bought this from told me it might need some new u joints and that they are fairly cheap .where can i buy this from?

Click to expand...

any auto parts store. is it a ford racing one or one from a windstar?

 

hsean

10 Year Member

Jul 24, 2006

656

69

69

dearborn,michigan

Dec 4, 2008

#29

• Dec 4, 2008

• #29

cenok is family said:

any auto parts store. is it a ford racing one or one from a windstar?

Click to expand...

how can you tell if it is a ford racing one or an aero star one?there isn't any markings that i can see.

 

SMOKEDYA

20+ Year Stangneter

Jul 13, 2003

3,637

8

79

Tucson AZ

Dec 5, 2008

#30

• Dec 5, 2008

• #30

hell no there not useless! i have one on my D.D 4banger! Well i also have alum steeda lower rear control arms 8.8 out of an 89 5.0 with 3.55 gears slotted drilled front rotors lowered. I got mine from a 96 areostar van AWD i had to get the rear ujoint and convert it to a mustang diff. So the driveline was $20 u pull it and the u joint (heavy duty) $8.00 Just make sure if you get one from a van it's a 96 or 97 cause they have welded ends and the tranny yoke is the same just not the diff end. But it's gotta be a AWD van! it takes a 12 MM 12point boxed end wrench to take them off and you also might want a nice 2-3 ft pipe for leverage. peace



john

 

SMOKEDYA

20+ Year Stangneter

Jul 13, 2003

3,637

8

79

Tucson AZ

Dec 5, 2008

#31

• Dec 5, 2008

• #31

oh yeah the only way to tell if it's a FRPP one or one out of the vans is the $200 price diffrence OR if they havent changed the rear u joint. But then also like i stated MAKE SURE it's out of a 96 or 97 cause they are welded NOT pressed in ends on them. NONE of the FRPP ones have pressed in ends either, so if you buy one make sure the ends are welded. OK so buy the drive shaft remove the rear u joint. remove your stock rear u joint take both of them to the parts store and tell them you need to make this go to this. problem solved. peace


john

 

hsean

10 Year Member

Jul 24, 2006

656

69

69

dearborn,michigan

Dec 5, 2008

#32

• Dec 5, 2008

• #32

SMOKEDYA said:

oh yeah the only way to tell if it's a FRPP one or one out of the vans is the $200 price diffrence OR if they havent changed the rear u joint. But then also like i stated MAKE SURE it's out of a 96 or 97 cause they are welded NOT pressed in ends on them. NONE of the FRPP ones have pressed in ends either, so if you buy one make sure the ends are welded. OK so buy the drive shaft remove the rear u joint. remove your stock rear u joint take both of them to the parts store and tell them you need to make this go to this. problem solved. peace


john

Click to expand...

that is probably what i will do is take the u joints in to the parts store thanks

 

hotcobra03

Active Member

Nov 29, 1999

969

4

39

poteet,tx

Dec 5, 2008

#33

• Dec 5, 2008

• #33

Ford uses 3 basic sizes of ujoint.1310,1330,1350.best i can tell u for difference 1310 is less than 3 and a half inch with a 1 inch whole(bearing cap).1330 is wider than 3.5 and has 1in cap. 1350 is the same as 1330 but has a 1and a quarter cap.spicer ujoint 4 1310 is 5-153x. 1330 use 5-1203x to combined the two use 5-134x. If rear pinion yoke is ubolt style 5-1204x has the larger bearing cap 1 and an eight .note alum shaft does require different type ujoints.

 

cenok is family

15 Year Member

Jun 25, 2003

1,409

69

79

Norman, Ok

Dec 5, 2008

#34

• Dec 5, 2008

• #34

SMOKEDYA said:

oh yeah the only way to tell if it's a FRPP one or one out of the vans is the $200 price diffrence OR if they havent changed the rear u joint. But then also like i stated MAKE SURE it's out of a 96 or 97 cause they are welded NOT pressed in ends on them. NONE of the FRPP ones have pressed in ends either, so if you buy one make sure the ends are welded. OK so buy the drive shaft remove the rear u joint. remove your stock rear u joint take both of them to the parts store and tell them you need to make this go to this. problem solved. peace

Click to expand...

they aren't the same as the ford racing driveshafts. the ford racing driveshafts have a larger diameter than the aerostar ones. someone on here had a pic of the two side by side...the ford racing one is larger than a stocker and the aerostar is close to the same diameter as a stock steel one.

 

hotcobra03

Active Member

Nov 29, 1999

969

4

39

poteet,tx

Dec 5, 2008

#35

• Dec 5, 2008

• #35

If your not running 10s .dont worry about strenght.camaro has ran a 2 and 3quarter round shaft and .i made shafts 4 etown and atco racers.even in a modified they have been 2in and now up to 3in . You can pull shaft anything its only a size and ford doesnt make it anyway spicer does

 

hsean

10 Year Member

Jul 24, 2006

656

69

69

dearborn,michigan

Dec 6, 2008

#36

• Dec 6, 2008

• #36

mine is definately larger in diameter than my stocker thats cool to know

 

Foxfan88

My Grandpa has great wood.

Sep 13, 2004

2,487

4

0

Miami, Ok

Dec 6, 2008

#37

• Dec 6, 2008

• #37

i run the FMS alum shaft. i was skeptical about buying one new, BUT i bought it new for around 240$ and it cured all my driveline vibrations i had due to a gear swap.