Am i chancing it by only retarding the ignition 2*

[deadly97snake]

I want to run my zex kit at the 125hp level and Zex reccommends that I retard the timing 4*. My car won't run right at 6* timing so the best I can do is to retard it 2*. I know that before the nitrous I was running 14* fine. Since you have to retard it from the factory timing(10*) I was wondering if i can hurt my motor by not going to the full 4* timing retard.

I have Autolite 24 plugs gapped at .035, 24# injectors, a Kirban adjustible fuel pressure regulator set a 40psi with the vacume off, and a Walboro 190lph fuel pump all to support the nitrous.

 

[Joes95GT]

The more timing it has, the more fuel you're going to need. I'd be running a minimum of 43-44 PSI with the vacuum line disconnected to start.

What do you mean "the car doesn't run right?" I'd address that problem before throwing nitrous at it. It should run just like it does with the timing advanced, except it should be down on about 10 horsepower because of the timing being so retarded. In fact, until you get a good grasp on what makes the car run best, I'd set the timing back even further than 4*. I'd set it at 0 or 2* and sneak up on it.

Joe

 

[deadly97snake]

The more timing it has, the more fuel you're going to need. I'd be running a minimum of 43-44 PSI with the vacuum line disconnected to start.

What do you mean "the car doesn't run right?" I'd address that problem before throwing nitrous at it. It should run just like it does with the timing advanced, except it should be down on about 10 horsepower because of the timing being so retarded. In fact, until you get a good grasp on what makes the car run best, I'd set the timing back even further than 4*. I'd set it at 0 or 2* and sneak up on it.

Joe

What I mean about the car not running right at 6* is that it starts to idle up and down and doesn't settle in at any specific rpm.
So you really think that running it at 43psi with the vacume off and 2* timing is the way to go when I run my 125hp dry kit?