i have heard alot about this motor or at least that people seem to recomend doing it and i was woundering if it would be a good reliable engine. or if the power they are claiming is not realistic? http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0307_ford_302_v8_engine_buildup/ i have a 89 5.0 that is not running correctly and i have my 66 wich is my daily driver now and i was woundering if i could swap my 5.0 into my car i know it is a easy swap specially since i wont be going to EFI but my questions are is the above combination worth it and waht would i have to change in my 66 coupe to put it in? are many of the parts on the motors interchangable? i have a 4 speed top loader and was curious if that would stand up to the power the above link is claiming? i did a search for the information on the 5.0 swap but most of what i got was EFI related i just want to know if my pulliies and accesories will switch over i have power steering and will be having and A/C unit shortly.. any advice would be great thanks again guys.
another 5.0 swap info..not EFI
- Thread starter spade33
- Start date
i believe it's very possible with those AFR heads, AFR has an even better version of that head out now too with more port work done, they call them the competition ported heads. anyone that says the AFR 165 is too small for a performance engine is just plain wrong even a mild 351w would make killer power with those heads and the ports flow and velocity are amazing, that's the key really is the port velocity.
there are a few little hiccups that will make this swap a little harder than just swapping in another 289 though.
you'll need the oil pan and timing cover for the early motor and you'll need clutch pivot adaptor for the late model engine becuase the late model block doesn't have the provisions for it like the early model but it's only like 25 bucks or so.
then you'll need a 5.0 balancer with the correct 3 bolt flange for the crank pulley, again not too expensive, about 100-125 bucks and available from any mustang parts supplier and then you'll also need a flywheel that has the correct balance for the 5.0 and able to use the early model clutch, this will be the most expensive part and will probably run about 150-200 bucks. once you get those things everything else is basically a bolt in deal. and just like swapping another 289 in.
i'd recommend using the Ford Racing A321 intake or the repro Cobra version made by Blue Thunder or the Weiand Stealth. you could use a performer RPM too though but i don't think the power output will be the same as with one of the other 3.
top that off with a 600-625cfm carb and you'll be golden and amazingly enough you'll actually get pretty decent mileage too. i'd check with AFR and see if you can use the 58cc chamber heads to get a little bump in compression as well.
there are a few little hiccups that will make this swap a little harder than just swapping in another 289 though.
you'll need the oil pan and timing cover for the early motor and you'll need clutch pivot adaptor for the late model engine becuase the late model block doesn't have the provisions for it like the early model but it's only like 25 bucks or so.
then you'll need a 5.0 balancer with the correct 3 bolt flange for the crank pulley, again not too expensive, about 100-125 bucks and available from any mustang parts supplier and then you'll also need a flywheel that has the correct balance for the 5.0 and able to use the early model clutch, this will be the most expensive part and will probably run about 150-200 bucks. once you get those things everything else is basically a bolt in deal. and just like swapping another 289 in.
i'd recommend using the Ford Racing A321 intake or the repro Cobra version made by Blue Thunder or the Weiand Stealth. you could use a performer RPM too though but i don't think the power output will be the same as with one of the other 3.
top that off with a 600-625cfm carb and you'll be golden and amazingly enough you'll actually get pretty decent mileage too. i'd check with AFR and see if you can use the 58cc chamber heads to get a little bump in compression as well.
wow thats alot of amazing info thank you very much now my biggest problem is im having trouble locating the rockers from comp cams i found two diffrent 1:7:1 ratio rockers but one is 5/16 and one is 7/16 i dont know what hte diffrence is i just know that its about 200 dollers diffrence but also could you put in a mild cam and bump up the power for these engines? maybe one of the ford racing liek the e_303 b-303 how much more do you think that would give you? but anyways im pretty sure im goign to be doing this and thank you again for the information on the swap i would have never known and probably woulda had some problems without taht thanks again
302 coupe
Founding Member
if that engine is duplicated per the CC article, you will make nowhere near 400hp on a properly calibrated dyno. It will be a good running engine though, FWIW.
CraigMBA
New Member
I think that dyno is okay.
Matt King ran that motor with Edlebrocks and made 390. He put AFR's on the same short block and made 400 - on a different dyno. Those heads are that good.
Or the stock ones are that bad. Your choice.
You can see for your self where Matt posted so much over on Corner Carvers under "Current State of the Art for Small Block Ford heads".
I miss Matt at Car Craft.
bnickel answered most of it, but as for your question about the Toploader 4 speed handling it? That transmission will handle an engine with TWICE the output.
The flywheel will be cheaper if you switch to a diaphram clutch & pressure plate then you can use the factory 5.0 T5 flywheel. The rocker selection will depend on what heads and stud arrangement they have. If you're able to, choose a set with 7/16" studs, these are the strongest. Rocker selection is narrowed somewhat but 1.7 rockers for them are available. These are what I have on my 331. The rockers are Comp Cams "engine builders" line, these aren't advertised and are only available thru professional engine builders but are a good bit less in price than the ones Comp advertises.
The flywheel will be cheaper if you switch to a diaphram clutch & pressure plate then you can use the factory 5.0 T5 flywheel. The rocker selection will depend on what heads and stud arrangement they have. If you're able to, choose a set with 7/16" studs, these are the strongest. Rocker selection is narrowed somewhat but 1.7 rockers for them are available. These are what I have on my 331. The rockers are Comp Cams "engine builders" line, these aren't advertised and are only available thru professional engine builders but are a good bit less in price than the ones Comp advertises.i probably should have said this before but the 89 5.0 i have is a AOD car not a five speed so will that cause any more problems than necessary or can i just simply change it over pretty easily haha the sad thing is i just had the tranny rebuilt becaue it was slipping and now i have my new car and am gutting my 89 just found it kinda funny but hey life is funny
that is something i love to hear i hated having my trans rebuilt i didnt know how to do it myself and i just had moved out of the parents house first month on my own and had to drop 900 on a frigging rebuild! gotta love old ford engineering its a beautifull thing thanks again guys for all your info so i dont know if we ever settled the dispute on wether or not the engine would make anywere near 400 horsepower at the crank or and what a new cam could do for it
thanks again guys for all your info so i dont know if we ever settled the dispute on wether or not the engine would make anywere near 400 horsepower at the crank or and what a new cam could do for itso i know this was a little while ago this was all brought up but does anybody think this is possible to get this kinda power out of this motor? i know bnickle agrees that it will be possible wich is AWESOME to hear but anybody else have an opinion because i figured it would cost almost 3600 dollers for everything and that seemed kinda pricy thats with new destributor, rebuild kit, headers ceramic coated, new fan, the heads, carb, all bolts(arp) all gaskets, ballencer and all the other stuff Bnickle recomended, radiator, roller rockers(332.$ isnt that expensive),intake manifold, and i think thats it
You can save a lot just by shopping for used parts. Heads and intakes for starters. Intakes don't wear out, they may get milled in rare instances, but they don't wear out. I never buy new carbs, I pickup slightly used Holley's from the guys who don't understand em and trash them for Edelbrocks. Last two I bought were nearly new and cost me $150 with a kit to rebuild em. Heads? the main thing to watch for is hard used drag racer cast off's. But there are lots out there from guys, who like the carb users, can't seem to make up their minds on what they want. They buy new stuff, sit it on the shelf for 6 months, then decide they want something better (the old "grass is always greener" syndrome) You can also save money by using cast or hypereutectic pistons, in many cases, forged pistons are simply not neccessary. You always hear the "all forged bottom end" brag from guys, but that doesn't make it go faster, just makes the rotating assembly stronger than the block, (as in 347's that split down the middle), the rotating assembly survives, (sometimes) but the block is trashed. New distributor? Not needed either, you can buy a fresh reman from your local parts house for $50, these work fine in builds thatspin up to 7000-7500 with the right valvetrain, just add an electronic conversion unit, a hot coil and good wires, it'll work just as well as a $400+ aftermarket system.
CraigMBA
New Member
I know where the dyno is and who owns it.
There is nothing wrong with that dyno.
That engine made 390 with Edlebrock heads and 1.7 rockers on another dyno that is also local to me.
Stock heads just suck that bad. Which is why I'm always jumping at the chance to send them to the scrap heap.
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