another c4 kickdown ?

I'd offer some suggestions,but I don't know anything 'bout the early classics. Try asking over at www.Vintage-Mustang.com

Alright... there's not too much to this. I don't have pictures of mine as of now, but I can take pictures. It's a pretttty easy setup. The kickdown mounts near the neutral safety switch on the tranny, there's a couple of springs down there. Let me grab my manual and give you exact directions on it. It's a bit long, but here it is so you can read it and work it out!

1. With the engine stoppped and the accelerator pedal in normal idle position, check the pedal for a height of 3 7/8 inche. Be sure that the fast idle cam is not contacting the fast idle adjusting screw of the carburetor.

2. To check for free pedal travel, dpress the accelerator pedal to the full-throttle position (carburetor throttle lever against full-throttle stop). Releease the pedal and re-check the pedal height.

3. If necessary, adjust the accelerator pedal height as follows:

8 Cylinder engines only:

Disconnect the carburetor return spring and the carburetor rod. Adjust the lenth of the rod to bring the pedal height within specifications. Connect the carburetor rod and return spring.

4. If necessary, adjust the transmission kickdown cable linkage as follows:

8 Cylinder engines only:

Disconnect the kickdown return spring at the bellcrank. Disconnect the carburetor treturn spring. Disconnect the kickdown lever rod. (My side note: Since you don't have the image... there's a connection at the top of the kickdown lever near the valve cover.) Hold the carburetor rod in the wide open throttle position. The step in the rod should place the bellcrank in the downshift position. Hold the kickdown lever rod in the downward position. This positions the transmission lever in the downshift position. Adjust the kickdown lever trunion (where you disconnected it before) so it aligns with the hole in the bellcrank. Install the trunnion and retaining clip. Release the levers and install the carburetor rod and bellcrank return springs.

Ta da! It sounds like a lot, but once you get it working right how you want it, it's a really sweet deal.

Parking brake assembly:

I don't know which parts you need, so I will start with the handle.

Handle:

1. Disengage the locking rod and connect the ball end of the scable to the slot on the controll assembly.

2. Assemble the pulley to the control handle and the clevis pin.

3. Positionthe asssembly against the dash panel and instrument panel. Secure the assembly to the instrument panel on with the two screws.

4. On a Mustang, install the insulator bracket with the attaching screw.

5. Working from under the left front gender, install the two lock washers and attaching nuts.

Parking brake equalizer to handle cable - Mustang

1. Connect the cable lower ball to the equalizer lever.

2. Engage the cable and housing to the bracket on the crossmember and secure with the hairpin retainer.

3. Push the upper end of the cable up through the hole in the dash panel.

4. Connect the cable upper ball to the parking brake handle, and install the handle assembly. (You might wanna move tranny to handle, come to think of it.)

Parking brake equalizer to rear wheel cable - Mustang

1. Insert the rear end of the cable and housing through the hole in the carrier plate from the inboard side.

2. Connect the rear end of the cable to the parking brake lever on the brake shoe, and engage the cable housing retaining grommet to the carrier plate.

3. Engage the cable housing to the retaining hook and the anchor bracket at the side rail.

4. Engage the cable rear housing to the bracket on the underbody and secure with the hairpin retainer.

5. Install the rear brake drum and wheel and tire assemly.

6. Engage the cable forward bell to the equalizer and adjust the parking brake linkage.

Yeah, definitely start at the wheels, and move forward. There's the info exactly as it's given in the shop manual though. Have fun and I hope you can use it! If anyone needs any of the information for the 6 cylinder assembly, let me know!

-Mike

I still haven't goten mine set up either. That whole cable spring thing isn't my set up. 66 289 C4. I have an arm on my trans and that cable is not keyed and it doesn't fit in the trans anyway.


Might be time to get a Lokar.

blue65coupe said:

Hey guys, need some help. '65 289 to a '68 c4. I'm trying to figure out how to install the kickdown cable. Looked at previous thread but still have questions. I'm assuming the threaded end with nut connects to lever from pedal. Where does other end connect? I saw the pic earlier but mine ain't meshing. I have the manual linkage and that is a little confusing too. It is in the forward position. I can pull back (I thought this may be where to connect) and it springs back forward...wouldn't work for a kickdown. Could the linkage be spring loaded backwards? I'm not a trans guy and had someone rebuild it for me. Trying to get everything buttoned up before Saturday...crank day. Thanks.
Oh yeah, ideas on mounting the e-brake hardware??? Wasn't hooked up before so I bought the stuff and am lost on it also.

Click to expand...

I did not see your other thread but, One lever is connected to the gas pedal if you did not go with an after market cable. The other lever is connected to the trans linkage. The cable should connect to the carb linkage on one end and the trans lever on the other. When you press the gas pedal enough, the cable will lose the slack and engage the kick down lever to the trans and you should down shift. I would think that there is adjustment.

Blue 65... your car isn't a 6 cylinder car by chance is it? That's the kickdown set up on the 6 cylinder. You can set it up that way, that's how mine is on my 200 CID. The kickdown arm goes down, pull the kickdown arm allllll the way out, with the spring on the kickdown at the transmission disconnected. Then put the trunion in the right place, and when you open it up to wot, it should kickdown. No sweat there. But yeah... might have been a 6er originally, shame it got replaced with one of those damn 8s.

I don't even use my kickdown yet. My cable isn't long enough to reach on my carb as it is. It faulters the acceleration. Just make sure that the rod is in fact ALLLLLL the way out. And yeah, it pulls the kickdown forward. I don't remember if you can mess with the lever tranny side without pulling anything. Maybe just the neutral safety switch?

Yep it does. The "extra bar" is the kickdown rod on the straight 6. It has to pull all the way towards the engine. Another good way to set it is to have someone put the gas pedal to the floor with the throttle return spring disconnected, and then adjust the cable accordingly. The cable should be set up tranny wise, especially if you had it rebuilt. Did they do the R&R on the transmission? If so, you could always have them set it, as it is part of their duty. At the old tranny shop we worked at, a car didn't leave until it was in exactly the same condition as it was before, except we left out the things that were wrong with it and everything worked good. =)