Another Intake Victim

BurningRubber

BurningRubber

10 Year Member
Dec 6, 2004
1,865
24
58
#1
Yep, happened last night. Jumped on the gas through first and second, let off when I shifted into third and smelled coolant very strongly.

Pulled off the road into a parking lot, car died. Steam billowing from under the hood, etc. Open it up and coolant is E V E R Y W H E R E!

Towed it home, looked at it today after work and the ****ing awesome plastic crossover cracked BEHIND THE ALTERNATOR! Of all the places...:rolleyes:


So... now I'm debating what to do. Gonna try a few friends for a used one with the aluminum crossover and get some new gaskets. If that's a no go, a Ford replacement or considering the Edelbrock setup. I'm afraid it's going to be really expensive with the plenum adapter and fuel rails, plus with my nitrous plate I do not think it'll fit under my hood.

I really think it's pathetic that the design of this intake was allowed into production... Ford should be paying for this, not me.
 

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#3
Yup, happened to me too. Expcept when I start a thread I was fumin' mad and the smilie icons were my friends. There are all kinds of options. You can go the ultra cheap Dorman intake route which dosn't need gaskets, Ford Racing, Edle Brock Jr., or P-51 intake. If you have nitrous, go w/the metal intake.
 
#4
Tim2002GT said:
I think if mine ever goes, I will go with this intake instead...

Home

Overall, it will be an easier and possibly cheaper installation. Plus it won't kill your lowend tq off the bottle like the Vic Jr will.
Click to expand...

That is a nice intake. It'd come out to be roughly the same as the Vic Jr. as well.

I'm just bummed about it. Not in a huge rush to fix, going to give it some thought first.

trombonedemon said:
Yup, happened to me too. Expcept when I start a thread I was fumin' mad and the smilie icons were my friends. There are all kinds of options. You can go the ultra cheap Dorman intake route which dosn't need gaskets, Ford Racing, Edle Brock Jr., or P-51 intake. If you have nitrous, go w/the metal intake.
Click to expand...

I've heard the Dorman had some issues as far as how it was cast, and not flowing as well as a Ford intake.

I'd like to go with a metal intake, but $$$...


Big problem is I'm in the middle of trying to pick up another vehicle and the timing is terrible. I can only get the other vehicle if I replace the 'Stang cheaply.
 
#6
darkside03gt said:
What ever you do don't put a damn dorman on it. Those things are crap.
Click to expand...

This is definitely not the first time I've heard that, haha.

I'll be putting a Ford replacement on there.


It's sad but funny at the same time, but the intake has basically turned itself into a water fountain. It cracked right on the casting (or molding) line on the coolant runner. Not sure if it just wore through after all the years, or if something kicked up from the belt and cracked it, but it's plain as day to see.
 
#10
trombonedemon said:
Actually, the Dorman intake worked out fine for me. I don't have to use gaskets, and is lighter then the Ford one. Runners are the same, too long. Decent replacement. But, I will eventually get a more maleable one so that I can have it ported.
Click to expand...

No gaskets is one nice thing. By the time you buy the Ford replacement and gaskets, its roughly the same.

Night Shifter said:
the doorman on my car choked the car up...put a factory one on an my power came back....
Click to expand...

Not good at all.

RedDaemon said:
sorry about the unfortunate news :(

FWIW, going the FRPP route, it set me back about $450/500-ish.
Click to expand...

Thanks.

But man... $450-$500? How? The intake is $190 from Summit, $45 for gaskets, and possibly $15 for a new alternator bracket if I can't modify mine, plus probably $20 in coolant.
 
#11
i replaced the seals and pintle caps on the injectors while i had the rails off (NAPA: CRB 212085). its just one of those things i decided to do since i had the opportunity

also added to the cost were new heater hoses and thermostat and seal.
 
#12
BurningRubber said:
But man... $450-$500? How? The intake is $190 from Summit, $45 for gaskets, and possibly $15 for a new alternator bracket if I can't modify mine, plus probably $20 in coolant.
Click to expand...

its very easy to make the old alternator bracket work...took me a dremel and about an hour and mine was fixed :nice:

so 190 + 45 + the 20 is all you'll need....unless you want to buy it directly from ford and pay a bajilliondy dollars
 
#13
RedDaemon said:
i replaced the seals and pintle caps on the injectors while i had the rails off (NAPA: CRB 212085). its just one of those things i decided to do since i had the opportunity

also added to the cost were new heater hoses and thermostat and seal.
Click to expand...

Ah, alright I gotcha.

I was planning on doing the injector seals as well, to be safe.

Night Shifter said:
its very easy to make the old alternator bracket work...took me a dremel and about an hour and mine was fixed :nice:

so 190 + 45 + the 20 is all you'll need....unless you want to buy it directly from ford and pay a bajilliondy dollars
Click to expand...

Please tell me more about modifying the bracket. A new one is $15, but $15 is also what it's going to be for shipping.

It it just drilling out holes further back on my style bracket? I don't mind modifying it if it works just as good. Any directions would be awesome.
 
#19
yellerstang said:
I just bought a 53000 mile 2000 GT convertible. Super clean, in very nice shape. I am wondering about the cracked intake problem... can anyone tell me what year 4.6 motors this affects? Am I doomed to change this thing out?

Is there some way to know if this has already been changed?

Thanks

Jess
Click to expand...

First of all, congrats on the purchase.

The years affected by the cracking intake are from 1996-mid 2001.

If your car hasn't had it replaced, it'll be hit or miss. Mine lasted until 147,000 miles then it split.

To tell if you have the crack-proned one, pop the hood and find the alternator (it's at the top of the serpentine-belt drive. Now look directly behind that, and the very front-most runner on the intake manifold will be the coolant crossover. If it's black plastic, like the rest of the intake, that's the factory intake that's prone to cracking. If that area is metal, not plastic, it's already been replaced.


If it hasn't been replaced, don't panic. Sometimes it starts out slow, so just keep an eye on your coolant level. If you notice it starts to drain over time, chances are you have a small leak and it's going to get worse over time. With the lower mileage, I wouldn't be too concerned with it at this point.
 
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