I shift my n/a 347 at 6500-6700. Don't waste any money on a girdle, just spend an extra few buck on arp main stids and have it line honed with the studs in place.
Your combo sounds good. What cam were you planning? The 3.73 gears will not be enough gear for a good higher rpm n/a set up. I have 3.73 and need a 4.30. Invest in lighter parts like an aluminum flywheel, romac light weight balancer. I also have probe ultralight I beam rods. I gotta head to work, but I can help more tonight.
Your combo sounds good. What cam were you planning? The 3.73 gears will not be enough gear for a good higher rpm n/a set up. I have 3.73 and need a 4.30. Invest in lighter parts like an aluminum flywheel, romac light weight balancer. I also have probe ultralight I beam rods. I gotta head to work, but I can help more tonight.
Two things that don't go well to together: "high revving engine, and this WILL be a daily driver". In order to get the power at high RPM,s you'll need a short runner intake, hot cam and heads with BIG ports. That's not a good combination for a bumper to bumper drive down I4 at rush hour or through the back streets. Creep along and suffer because the engine lopes so bad at low speed that the car lurches along instead of a steady creep. You'll need some tall gears - 4:10-4:30 to get the RPM's up and that kills gas mileage on the streets. The tall gears will amplify the surge characteristics of the cam as the engine struggles to pull at just off idle RPM.
A daily driver works best with a torquey engine that gets its power down low, because you never get a chance to get the RPM's up in traffic. Couple that with a 3:55 rear gear and you have plenty of kick when you need it, but it doesn't suck your wallet dry at the gas pump.
A daily driver works best with a torquey engine that gets its power down low, because you never get a chance to get the RPM's up in traffic. Couple that with a 3:55 rear gear and you have plenty of kick when you need it, but it doesn't suck your wallet dry at the gas pump.
I bought a $150 longblock before and its the best money ever spent. The shortblock had 180,000 when I purchased it and it has gone 10.97 on nitrous with AFR's etc etc. 11.64 on Motor shifting at 6800 many many times too bad the valve springs were not replaced on the heads (my own fault) And now the same motor is in the car still and runs 12.2's on motor and has been a 11.15 on a big pill. It should run in the 10's the next time it gets sprayed.
This shortblock is ALL STOCK out of a 88 GT. I have well over 500 passes on it and all my passes are 5000-6400 launch shifting between 5200-6800 (deppending on Combos over the years)
The best money ever spent. Motor has Been in the car since Jan 2000
Greg
This shortblock is ALL STOCK out of a 88 GT. I have well over 500 passes on it and all my passes are 5000-6400 launch shifting between 5200-6800 (deppending on Combos over the years)
The best money ever spent. Motor has Been in the car since Jan 2000
Greg
You can probably turn 6K with no problems on the track. Stick with the AFR 185 or equal and either the stock cam or custom hydraulic roller. Keep the port volumes down and the port velocities up. That will keep the low end and make the car fun to drive in the city. It will still make killer power on the track.
With a stock body, stay away from aluminum flywheels. The loss of kick off the line will make the car harder to drive in traffic. There is an easy way to remember what flywheel works best with what car. Light car = light flywheel, heavy car = heavy flywheel.
A gutted Fox body with no interior, no sound deadening or insulation can easily get below 2900 lbs and would be a great choice for a light flywheel. A full bodied GT with all the accessories is a candidate for a heavy flywheel.
With a stock body, stay away from aluminum flywheels. The loss of kick off the line will make the car harder to drive in traffic. There is an easy way to remember what flywheel works best with what car. Light car = light flywheel, heavy car = heavy flywheel.
A gutted Fox body with no interior, no sound deadening or insulation can easily get below 2900 lbs and would be a great choice for a light flywheel. A full bodied GT with all the accessories is a candidate for a heavy flywheel.
You have to decide what you want because high reving and street car do not go good together. With a high revving motor you won't start making power until about 3grand. This is why I went with h/c/i and blower. I have the capabilities to have torque for the street and still have it wind high. Decide what it is you want and we'll hook you up on some good combos.
Are there weeds growing in the block? (Sorry)
You will deffinently need to get that thing to a machine shop for cleaning up. If you are having the shop do the assembly of your bottom end make sure that it is balanced if you do plan on rev'ing the motor over 6,500.
Did you buy it yet? It's a good idea to have 2 blocks laying around. One in the car and one on the stand ready to go in.
You will deffinently need to get that thing to a machine shop for cleaning up. If you are having the shop do the assembly of your bottom end make sure that it is balanced if you do plan on rev'ing the motor over 6,500.
Did you buy it yet? It's a good idea to have 2 blocks laying around. One in the car and one on the stand ready to go in.