Another will this engine live thread

[mob]

Ive done alot of searching, but havent gotten the exact answer i want.

My buddy has a 302 from a 88 notch back. It has everything from the heads to the oil pan. Im going to look at it tomorrow. He wants to sell it to me for 100 bucks. Ill get some pics.

So far my plan is to buy the 347 kit from chp for 800 bucks, have Central Florida Machine and Speed do all the machine work and assemble it. But my question i havent been able to get an answer to yet is will the car live?

I want to have a high revving engine, and this WILL be a daily driver. The HCI plan was Holley systemax intake, afr 185's, and a custom cam. Of course ill have to get al the extras, like a good balancer, and a strong girdle. Anybody know what kind of hp this will be making? im thinking 350-450. I heard the stock block will hold up to 500hp with a good tune and if u take it easy on it. But the thing is I know im going to be beating this thing to hell. I want something strong, highrevving and torquey. I will not be able to buy a dart block or something along those lines, I am on a VERY VERY tight budget. I need to use a stock block. It will be seeing the track about once a week, or once every 2 weeks.

Will it be better for me to just build a 306 out of it? I dont want to settle for any cubic inches besides a 347 though. What do you guys think, the stock block can take the beating? I was thinking maybe go with a more subtle setup, but then im not getting all the potential out of the 347. I have no idea what to do. Any help would be great.

 

[emagdnim]

Stock block will take the beating unless you decide to add a power adder.. Your combo sounds good for a honest 400hp good luck with your build.

 

[mob]

thanks man, i appreciate the reply

I WILL NOT be adding a power adder or juice, this is going to be COMPLETELY n/a

Any other opinions?

 

[Modular2v]

i did the same thing execpt with a 331......and i converted it to carb.. you should be fine. One of my friends is running a 331 on a stock block with nitrous making 680rwhp!!!!! and the block is still freakishly still in one piece

 

[mob]

haha thanks guys, what do you think i can rev to? past 6k?

 

[Modular2v]

depends on your parts...... quality of the internals, valvetrain and power band......i fully attend on reving to 6800-7000rpms when all is said in done

 

[BLU91]

Had a 11:5.1 347 with a soild roller and girdle in a stock block that I revved to 7500 with a 5spd and 7800 with a C-4. Lived for about 3 years and was drove quite a bit. Block did finally crack, but all I lost was the cam. Put the internals in another block.

 

[Grn92LX]

I shift my n/a 347 at 6500-6700. Don't waste any money on a girdle, just spend an extra few buck on arp main stids and have it line honed with the studs in place.

Your combo sounds good. What cam were you planning? The 3.73 gears will not be enough gear for a good higher rpm n/a set up. I have 3.73 and need a 4.30. Invest in lighter parts like an aluminum flywheel, romac light weight balancer. I also have probe ultralight I beam rods. I gotta head to work, but I can help more tonight.

 

[mac16]

looks good except I would go with some victor jr. heads instead of the 185s, just my opinion.

 

[jrichker]

Two things that don't go well to together: "high revving engine, and this WILL be a daily driver". In order to get the power at high RPM,s you'll need a short runner intake, hot cam and heads with BIG ports. That's not a good combination for a bumper to bumper drive down I4 at rush hour or through the back streets. Creep along and suffer because the engine lopes so bad at low speed that the car lurches along instead of a steady creep. You'll need some tall gears - 4:10-4:30 to get the RPM's up and that kills gas mileage on the streets. The tall gears will amplify the surge characteristics of the cam as the engine struggles to pull at just off idle RPM.

A daily driver works best with a torquey engine that gets its power down low, because you never get a chance to get the RPM's up in traffic. Couple that with a 3:55 rear gear and you have plenty of kick when you need it, but it doesn't suck your wallet dry at the gas pump.

 

[luckythirteen13]

it will hold. this is the only forum i belong to that says 500hp is the limit. ive heard if you upgrade the main caps you can run 550rwhp beating the hell out of it. build it right the first time and youll be happy with it

 

[Dangerous302]

I bought a $150 longblock before and its the best money ever spent. The shortblock had 180,000 when I purchased it and it has gone 10.97 on nitrous with AFR's etc etc. 11.64 on Motor shifting at 6800 many many times too bad the valve springs were not replaced on the heads (my own fault) And now the same motor is in the car still and runs 12.2's on motor and has been a 11.15 on a big pill. It should run in the 10's the next time it gets sprayed.

This shortblock is ALL STOCK out of a 88 GT. I have well over 500 passes on it and all my passes are 5000-6400 launch shifting between 5200-6800 (deppending on Combos over the years)

The best money ever spent. Motor has Been in the car since Jan 2000

Greg

 

[mob]

k thanks guys, i guess when i do my build, i will go for a low end torque engine since it will be a daily driver. I wasnted a high reving motor cause it would just be badass but what jricker said made sense. I could still build the engine to make peak power at like 6000rpm though right? and still have it a good daily driver?

grn92lx, i had planned on the aluminum flywheel and a good balancer. And i was going to go with a custom cam, so it meets exactly what i want.

thanks again guys

 

[jrichker]

You can probably turn 6K with no problems on the track. Stick with the AFR 185 or equal and either the stock cam or custom hydraulic roller. Keep the port volumes down and the port velocities up. That will keep the low end and make the car fun to drive in the city. It will still make killer power on the track.

With a stock body, stay away from aluminum flywheels. The loss of kick off the line will make the car harder to drive in traffic. There is an easy way to remember what flywheel works best with what car. Light car = light flywheel, heavy car = heavy flywheel.

A gutted Fox body with no interior, no sound deadening or insulation can easily get below 2900 lbs and would be a great choice for a light flywheel. A full bodied GT with all the accessories is a candidate for a heavy flywheel.

 

[ms93gt]

You have to decide what you want because high reving and street car do not go good together. With a high revving motor you won't start making power until about 3grand. This is why I went with h/c/i and blower. I have the capabilities to have torque for the street and still have it wind high. Decide what it is you want and we'll hook you up on some good combos.

 

[mob]

k thanks guys, ill be doing more research, but i def want something strong and isnt a slug around town cause that will be 90% of the driving.

here is some pics of the engine i went to look at. Im kinda of scared to see what the cylinders look like. You guys think its worth it? its 100 bucks i might be able to talk him down to 75. Dosent look like its worth 20 though. You guys think i could clean it up? it has everything on it besides the intakes. He says its been sitting there for 4 years, and it was running when they took it out of the engine. He said the guy that did it said it was getting old and needed a rebuild, but he just droped a 351 in it. You guys think its worth the clean up? I have no problem doing it.

keeep in mind all of the parts going on it would be brand new, you guys think its worth taking off the heads to see if the cylinders are scratched or rusetd?

 

[bdollarbill]

Call your local machine shop they may have a 5.0 block already bored & cam bushings installed, I know around here you can pick up a 5.0 bare block for $100 or under easy.

Bill

 

[srothfuss]

Are there weeds growing in the block? (Sorry)

You will deffinently need to get that thing to a machine shop for cleaning up. If you are having the shop do the assembly of your bottom end make sure that it is balanced if you do plan on rev'ing the motor over 6,500.

Did you buy it yet? It's a good idea to have 2 blocks laying around. One in the car and one on the stand ready to go in.

 

[Modular2v]

i would buy it just to have laying around at least! Should be good to go after machining and hot tanked

 

[65ShelbyClone]

I'd buy it for $100. The accesories on the front are probably worth that and I know the rebuildable E7 heads are as well.



Now that I think about it, maybe I should buy the complete $200 460 my neighbor has....