Ok guys, i have myself a 00 mustang 5spd 6cyl. I am swapped the engine for a built ls1. The ls1 is fully powered and running however, I can't to get the car to crank because the anti-theft/ pats. I assume its because i started cutting wires for the ccrm and remove ecu, cleanup etc. SO!! the question is what's the easiest way to get around all this splicing the least amount of wires and not having to remove my dash again?
Anti-theft engine swap
- Thread starter sabes
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For what you are doing I don't think easy is a word to use. You have done the easy part already. Myself before starting this I would have found someone(s) who has done it before. Moving ahead I would put this thread on every known Mustang Forum and search the internet. Since they are two totally different harnesses and I don't believe they make an adapter harness for it you are stuck with crimping and soldering as far as I can tell. Good Luck anyway.
Awesome well you sound like you know what's up, so can you help? If I have to remove the dash again i thought so be it there's more I can remove under it. Ive already removed ALOT and also soldered and shrink wrapped wires powering the ls ecm and starter to ignition yada yada. Ive tried looking it up everywhere, i only get how to bypass it which in my case doesnt help. Theres also no info that i could locate if my key fab would still function.
wmburns
SN Certified Technician
For the 1996+ model year PATS can NOT be disabled by "cutting wires". PATS is disabled by PCM programming.
BUT........please confirm if this is a "no crank" or a "crank with no start". Why is this important? Because let's assume this is a "no crank" problem. If so, then PATS is NOT your problem. Because Ford factory PATS does not disable the starter. It works by with holding fuel injector pulse.
Bottom line. Ford Factory 1996+ PATS does not take power away from any sub system when activated. It's only way to affect the motor is by with holding fuel injector pulse. Which this prevents the motor from starting due to a lack of fuel. I would assume that the Ford PCM is not handling the duties of engine management. Under this logic your problem is not "caused" by PATS.
IF this is a "no crank" problem then likely the problem is in the neutral safety (NSS) circuits. As the NSS do go through the automatic transmission or the clutch position switch (which do you have manual or automatic?).
Please clarify the base problem and explain how the engine management and factor PCM have been "hooked up" and let's see if we can point you in the right direction.
BUT........please confirm if this is a "no crank" or a "crank with no start". Why is this important? Because let's assume this is a "no crank" problem. If so, then PATS is NOT your problem. Because Ford factory PATS does not disable the starter. It works by with holding fuel injector pulse.
Bottom line. Ford Factory 1996+ PATS does not take power away from any sub system when activated. It's only way to affect the motor is by with holding fuel injector pulse. Which this prevents the motor from starting due to a lack of fuel. I would assume that the Ford PCM is not handling the duties of engine management. Under this logic your problem is not "caused" by PATS.
IF this is a "no crank" problem then likely the problem is in the neutral safety (NSS) circuits. As the NSS do go through the automatic transmission or the clutch position switch (which do you have manual or automatic?).
Please clarify the base problem and explain how the engine management and factor PCM have been "hooked up" and let's see if we can point you in the right direction.
Its manual. The car wont crank. It will start since the engine has its own power, it is a standalone harness and pcm. fuel is not the current issue lol it is not currently hooked up but when it was fuel pump didnt kick in... Pats assumably.
When i turn my key on the theft light comes on for five minutes then stops. All component for the starter to work are hooked directly up to old starter wires, no problem there. The situation isnt necessarily a problem as much as i cant find the info to get aroumd it and i dont wanna spend 50hrs tearing everything apart to find out i only need to splice 1 wire for the ignition to work withought pats.
When i turn my key on the theft light comes on for five minutes then stops. All component for the starter to work are hooked directly up to old starter wires, no problem there. The situation isnt necessarily a problem as much as i cant find the info to get aroumd it and i dont wanna spend 50hrs tearing everything apart to find out i only need to splice 1 wire for the ignition to work withought pats.
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wmburns
SN Certified Technician
PATS can be disabled via a tune loaded to the PCM.
Again. 1999-2004 Ford factory PATS does not disable the starter. If you were to attempt to steal a stock 1999-2004 with a non chipped key, the motor would crank all day long until the battery ran down. As far as the starter is concerned the fact that the dash theft light is on is "white noise".
I still believe this is a neutral safety switch issue or there's a wiring fault in the NSS circuit. Does the starter relay in the battery junction box "click" when the ignition switch is turned to "crank"? If not, this all but proves that the starter relay isn't being commanded to close. The trick is to find out why.
Is there CONFIRMED power in and out of fuse F2.6 with the key in the "crank" position?
Has the clutch pedal position switch been connected and adjusted? Does it close (electrically) when the clutch pedal is depressed? The clutch pedal position switch is a just a simple open/close switch that closes when the clutch is depressed.
1999-2004 MY fuse panel schedule:
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...r-swap-wont-fire-please-help.html#post2669271
Again. 1999-2004 Ford factory PATS does not disable the starter. If you were to attempt to steal a stock 1999-2004 with a non chipped key, the motor would crank all day long until the battery ran down. As far as the starter is concerned the fact that the dash theft light is on is "white noise".
I still believe this is a neutral safety switch issue or there's a wiring fault in the NSS circuit. Does the starter relay in the battery junction box "click" when the ignition switch is turned to "crank"? If not, this all but proves that the starter relay isn't being commanded to close. The trick is to find out why.
Is there CONFIRMED power in and out of fuse F2.6 with the key in the "crank" position?
Has the clutch pedal position switch been connected and adjusted? Does it close (electrically) when the clutch pedal is depressed? The clutch pedal position switch is a just a simple open/close switch that closes when the clutch is depressed.
1999-2004 MY fuse panel schedule:
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...r-swap-wont-fire-please-help.html#post2669271
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Ok. Since the last post i removed the pcm since it doesnt control the engine anymore, BUT does it control the nss?
I havent touched the clutch pedal, but the only thing that changed was the clutch cable is now not attached to anything and is free(no tension) would that cause this?
No the starter relay doesnt click, thats why im here lol. I will check those fuses asap and get back to you. I dont think the switches went out after removing the engine, i will voltage drop though. Can i just jump the switch?
P.s. i had 0 intention of re-installing the pcm since i plan on placing the new standalone in its place now my inentions are swaded if it controls other things that im not removing I get it cuts the fuel and am not trying to sound cocky lol.
I havent touched the clutch pedal, but the only thing that changed was the clutch cable is now not attached to anything and is free(no tension) would that cause this?
No the starter relay doesnt click, thats why im here lol. I will check those fuses asap and get back to you. I dont think the switches went out after removing the engine, i will voltage drop though. Can i just jump the switch?
P.s. i had 0 intention of re-installing the pcm since i plan on placing the new standalone in its place now my inentions are swaded if it controls other things that im not removing I get it cuts the fuel and am not trying to sound cocky lol.
