Motorcraft. I would find a used distributor and swap it over. Your tfi could have cracked film or paste behind it that is causing issues when it warms up but will go away once it cools.
I couldn't get the used distributor I was hopjng for.
$50 to eliminate another possible cause, but not fix the issue. Ordered and installed a Motorcraft TFI using the Artic Silver paste on the back and still getting the same issue.
Tried to pay more attention to what it is doing to see if it helps get any ideas. Same as before, about 5 mins after it gets to the middle of the temp guage, and I use more then approx. 1/8 throttle it starts cutting out while trying to accelerate. If I keep my foot into it, the best I can describe is a bog. Like when a dirt bike runs out of gas when you forget to turn on the fuel shutoff. If I release the pedal, it tries to accelerate cleanly when I get back down down the 1/8 throttle spot again. When it started cutting out I pulled over to see if I shut it off and restarted (thinking something blocking a fuel pick up would settle) but no luck. With how it acts, I am thinking it's a fuel issue, but don't know if it's electronic. Since the point it starts at is consistent, any chance it's still the TPS even though it tested ok? Or any other ideas? Also it cools back down while driving, but the issue remains until it sits.
Well I assume it's a good thing eliminating another possible, but removing the spout did nothing to help the issue. Did seem to make it want to die when I took off from a stop though.
Then we can rule that out for now. I kind if wish we could get fuel readings while this is happening. I've seen fuel pumps get hot and shut off only to restart after they cool for a while.
I don't think I can get it with the guage I have while driving. Going to see if I can pick up a smaller line one I can run inside temporarily for testing tomorrow. Strike that idea, hard to find the parts and dumb idea not worth the risk. Electric is expensive, but the way to go. Will need to do more checking.
I am hoping this weekend I can try the fuel gauge while driving.
Another item I was thinking about that might be a clue, I get a very strong exhaust smell from the car. I first thought it had something to do with the rust and holes in the exhaust behind the muffler's. Now I'm wondering if that could be an indicator back to the O2 sensors that were previously mentioned. Any thoughts on that?
It's a possibility. If they are old I would change them out. If they aren't old make sure they are the correct ones. I had 4 cyl o2s on my car when I got it. Didn't throw a code but gave the ecu fits.
O2 sensors are being delivered, however I hooked a fuel pressure guage and drop it. Idles at 30, goes down the road ok at first then started to drop. Wasn't even under the load of the mountains as before and started cutting out and the pressure would drop to 10 until I let off. Checked the regulator again and when I pull the vacuum line, it goes up to 40 or so. I assume this points to the pump being bad or clogged. Either way I am dropping the tank unless I am thinking wrong?
Check fuel pressure:
The local auto parts store may rent or loan a fuel pressure test gauge if you don't have one.
Disconnect the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator. Check it for evidence of fuel present in the line by removing it and blowing air through it. If you find fuel, the fuel pressure regulator has failed. Reinstall the line; leave the fuel pressure regulator end of the vacuum line disconnected. Then cap or plug the open end of the vacuum line and stow it out of the way.
Connect the fuel pressure test gauge to the Schrader port located just behind the alternator.
Turn the ignition switch on & start the engine. Observe the pressure: you should see 38-41 PSI at idle.
Turn the ignition off; reconnect the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator. Then disconnect the fuel pressure test gauge. Watch out for squirting gas when you do this.
Fuel pump pressure test
Disconnect the larger of the two fuel lines up by the Schrader valve. It is the return line and does not have the Schrader valve on it. Find a piece of rubber fuel hose and clamp it on the return line coming from the regulator. Stick a bolt in the other end of the hose and make sure that all your connections are tight and leak proof as possible. When this powers up, you don't want fuel squirting everywhere. Hook up the fuel pressure test gauge. Turn the ignition switch on and watch for leaks. You may want to use a helper inside the car to cut the switch off quickly if you have a leak. To trick the fuel pump into running, find the ECC test connector and jump the connector in the Upper RH corner to ground.
Caution!!! You have blocked the return line for the fuel pump! Pressure will rise very quickly past safe levels with a good pump
If the pressure goes up past 55 PSI, the pump is good and the fuel pressure regulator is bad. If the fuel pressure does not hit 55 PSI or more in a few seconds, the pump is bad or you have electrical problems.
I went ahead and replaced the regulator since it was only $20 locally. Other than the nightmare to get it installed it did not change how it ran. I went ahead and drained and dropped the tank. It is rusty and the gas at the bottom was a nice orange color. (Looks like the old lawn mower is set for a while on gas.) The pump itself appears new and the screen on the bottom is not very bad at all and still nice and white. I assume that the replacement pump might just be faulty. I think I'm going to see about getting the tank cleaned or replacing it, new pump and pick up assembly and another fuel filter. I would assume that all of that should fix my fuel pressure problems.
A new tank, complete pump assembly and filter and so far so good. At this point I assume the rising temp wasn't the issue, but the rust (and 6" stick) in the tank was getting stirred up from the twisty roads.
Small side note, a new tank shipped online was cheaper $118, than quotes to have the tank cleaned at $125 locally.
I will still change out the O2 sensors since they are already on the workbench, but look forward to enjoying driving the car after the snow passes this week and working on impovements and not just getting it running right.
For anyone reading this with similar issues, think about what could be in the tank after sitting for 12 years...
A big thank you to those that helped and gave me ideas and info.
Whats the saying, if its not one thing its another? Drove to work today, the stuttering and cutting out is gone, however twice the engine shut off completely with no warning. The first one I coasted to the side of the road and it restarted without a problem and the second one I shut the key off and turned it back on with the clutch out and it restarted while still rolling. A quick search brings up the ignition switch in the column (I replaced already), TFI (again I replaced already) or any combo of loose wires. Guess I have another issue to chase...
The car was running and in gear under power with the clutch out both times. It was running nice and smooth and then nothing at all. No cutting out, bucking or any indication other than silence and the tach dropped to zero. The first time I was merging onto another road in 3rd gear and there was a slight bump in the road, I dont recall if it was right when it shut off or not. The second time in 2nd gear just coming up a slight hill.
I have the stock temp gauge, however it was not hot at all, the same temp it had been running at. Around the first quarter of the gauge.
I can't say for sure. The radio doesn't work, the heater was on low, I didnt notice if the oil pressure. temp or fuel gauge dropped and I don't think the volt meter works, but the clock did not reset. I will check out some of the wiring for any obvious connection issues and see if it cuts out while idling when I shake things before I head home. I will also try to pay more attention if it happens again on the way home.