Any Procharger F1R guys?

scott5 · Oct 6, 2009

Just wondering if anyone here is running an F1R on there car whether it be 302 based or 351 based? Im trying to decide whether to go with a TFS R intake (not the box), Holley Systemax 2 or go with a victor jr lower with a wilson elbow upper. What kind of intakes are you using and how much RWHP and PSI you seeing.

Thanks

WHT306 · Oct 6, 2009

5.0 mag did one on a stock 302 and turned 11.3 1/4 but it was all stock heads, int., cam, block.

90lxcoupe · Oct 6, 2009

WHT306 said:
5.0 mag did one on a stock 302 and turned 11.3 1/4 but it was all stock heads, int., cam, block.

you treed me on that one... that was an exciting article, I was going to run an F1r on my motor before i found out the compression was almost 11:1. Those blowers love upwards of 20 psi and can make 1000 hp at the wheels when done right. Why dont you want to run a Box-R? That would probly be the best true bolt on intake to go with if your trying to keep up with an F1 blower.

I've never seen anyone on here with an F-1r, you should check out yellowbullet.com or theturboforums.com, there are alot more guy on those sites that are serious about going fast.

scott5 · Oct 6, 2009

Yea i saw that article also, but im looking for around 800rwhp and the stock stuff is not going to take it..

Why you say the box intake is probably my best bet? I havent done really too much research on them, but always looking to learn

90lxcoupe · Oct 6, 2009

that box intake loves boost, juice and high rpms.

You will make better power up top with the box intake and despite what everyone will tell you, it does not sacrifice enough low end torque to justify not using it. People will try and tell you that its junk in the lower RPMs, but those people should put the summit catalog down and actually try using it, the RPM ratings that trick flow or anyone else use are just a baseline, its gonna depend on the rest of your setup.

What are you running for a bottom end? the F1R is no joke.

304billet · Oct 6, 2009

how bout a F2R and 30lbs. Dart 364, TFS-R stage 4 heads, super victor lower, chp elbow, eagle 4340 crank, eagle H-beam rods, Probe 10:1CR flat tops, neutral balanced, .700 lift solid roller.

YouTube - Richards New Best @ Irwindale 5.22 @ 141 June 11 2009

here's another vid when he was running a YSi and 23lbs. 905/780 to the tire with AFR 225's and Mondo cooler with same motor and cam.

YouTube - Richards Best Pass @ Irwindale

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HjAaPv9VxsI&feature=related

1991notchbackLX · Oct 6, 2009

There's a coupe with a gear driven F3R on the builds board over at ttf.com. The thing is an absolute monster. Those blowers are no joke, man.

90lxcoupe · Oct 7, 2009

1991notchbackLX said:
There's a coupe with a gear driven F3R on the builds board over at ttf.com. The thing is an absolute monster. Those blowers are no joke, man.

theres a guy around here that is running an older style F3r that is making an estimated 1800 to the tires, they dyno'd it but it pegged the dyno and they used the tq number to calculate the HP, that car is nuts though, too much for my tastes. When you trailer your car to a cruise night, park 3 blocks away and drive it in thats just not fun to me

bentley429isBAC · Oct 7, 2009

I'd go with a elbow style intake. Check out yellowbullet like said before, most on this site aren't serious.

scott5 · Oct 7, 2009

I am getting ready to sign up right now, i have been on turbomustangs alot lately also..

To give a rundown on the car as yes i know the F1R is a serious blower but this is going to be a serious car that is going to be very capable of hitting mid 9s and 10.0 on a safe tune. The car is being built for the True street class (10.0) in the NMRA and NMCA. The car is a 00 mustang with 10pt chromoly cage, Team Z rear suspension and rear end. Aje front end suspension. 408 with 4340 crank, h-beam rods, probe pistons. Trickflow renegade heads, custom cam, Prob the victor jr with elbow or now tfs r box intake(after doing some research) with the F1R (28-35psi) and alot of tuning. This car will be no means a everyday driver. It will be backed with a built TKO600 to see if i can shift fast enough and if i cant there will be a C4 built to do it for me. Hopefully i can get what i hope(800rwhp) to the ground with a set of 325/50 et street radials. Also will not have heat, ac, power steering, and probably no power windows or locks and still debating whether to keep the radio or not.

304billet · Oct 8, 2009

scott5 said:
I am getting ready to sign up right now, i have been on turbomustangs alot lately also..

To give a rundown on the car as yes i know the F1R is a serious blower but this is going to be a serious car that is going to be very capable of hitting mid 9s and 10.0 on a safe tune. The car is being built for the True street class (10.0) in the NMRA and NMCA. The car is a 00 mustang with 10pt chromoly cage, Team Z rear suspension and rear end. Aje front end suspension. 408 with 4340 crank, h-beam rods, probe pistons. Trickflow renegade heads, custom cam, Prob the victor jr with elbow or now tfs r box intake(after doing some research) with the F1R (28-35psi) and alot of tuning. This car will be no means a everyday driver. It will be backed with a built TKO600 to see if i can shift fast enough and if i cant there will be a C4 built to do it for me. Hopefully i can get what i hope(800rwhp) to the ground with a set of 325/50 et street radials. Also will not have heat, ac, power steering, and probably no power windows or locks and still debating whether to keep the radio or not.

if I were u I would go with at least a 225cc head like the cnc'd TFS-R or the cnc'd TFS HP. Also look at the TEA 235 TFS-R and the Bennett racing 240cc TFS HP. For an intake forget the R go super victor with the CHP elbow. go neutral balance and liteweight crank and rods to spin up fast. adperformance.com has the best pricing on dart race block and rotating assemblies, shortblocks and longblocks. excellent shop.

For a tranny look at pro-motion TKO 600 that has been modified, McLeod twin disc clutch. for a auto 3 speed Lentech street terminator.

90lxcoupe · Oct 8, 2009

sounds like you are on the right track, if that setup only runs 10.00's tho somethings wrong. Chances are your gonna be closer to 1000hp. at least i would hope so

Also look into a built TH400 with a brake, it would be cool to have a stick car, but at that power level, its gonna be tough to get a clutch to last and be consistent. An auto with a brake is the way to go

Shaolin Crane · Oct 8, 2009

304billet said:
how bout a F2R and 30lbs. Dart 364, TFS-R stage 4 heads, super victor lower, chp elbow, eagle 4340 crank, eagle H-beam rods, Probe 10:1CR flat tops, neutral balanced, .700 lift solid roller.

YouTube - Richards New Best @ Irwindale 5.22 @ 141 June 11 2009

here's another vid when he was running a YSi and 23lbs. 905/780 to the tire with AFR 225's and Mondo cooler with same motor and cam.

YouTube - Richards Best Pass @ Irwindale

YouTube - Richards Mustang Wheelstand Irwindale

ive seen that car there before, crazy fast

scott5 · Oct 8, 2009

304billet said:
if I were u I would go with at least a 225cc head like the cnc'd TFS-R or the cnc'd TFS HP. Also look at the TEA 235 TFS-R and the Bennett racing 240cc TFS HP. For an intake forget the R go super victor with the CHP elbow. go neutral balance and liteweight crank and rods to spin up fast. adperformance.com has the best pricing on dart race block and rotating assemblies, shortblocks and longblocks. excellent shop.

For a tranny look at pro-motion TKO 600 that has been modified, McLeod twin disc clutch. for a auto 3 speed Lentech street terminator.

Thanks, that opens alot of doors for me in my thinking. I have a list of my car build envelope is getting thicker but trying to do all my reasearch so i only have to do this once.

90lxcoupe said:
sounds like you are on the right track, if that setup only runs 10.00's tho somethings wrong. Chances are your gonna be closer to 1000hp. at least i would hope so

Also look into a built TH400 with a brake, it would be cool to have a stick car, but at that power level, its gonna be tough to get a clutch to last and be consistent. An auto with a brake is the way to go

Yea the 10.0s im hoping will be able to be consistent on a safe tune so i dont have to worry about the 30 mile drive and have no problem with pump gas. But it will have 2 tunes and if i want to let her fly then i will just change up the tune and throw in some race gas and see how she goes

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