Any sugestions before installing my O/R x pipe?

shotime · Apr 15, 2005

Just got my UPR o/r x today in the mail and will be installing tommorow Any suggestions for me for those that have installed this themselves? I put my Y2K Cobra's back on yesterday and hit all the bolts on the catback and manifolds with wd-40 while the car was on the jack. I have several questions:

1. The UPR is two peices, do you peice it together after the mid pipe is connected back on the manifolds or do it while the entire midpipe is off the car?

2. There is about a 2" peice of pipe w/ a flange on it. Must help seal something up. Where does this go? Just a little unsure as per UPR's instructions mention nothing of it.

3. Any other hints would be helpful.

Hopefully this hasn't been asked to many times as I searched for at least 20 min. today not finding what I had just asked.

Thanks!

SonicBlueBabe · Apr 15, 2005

shotime said:
Just got my UPR o/r x today in the mail and will be installing tommorow Any suggestions for me for those that have installed this themselves? I put my Y2K Cobra's back on yesterday and hit all the bolts on the catback and manifolds with wd-40 while the car was on the jack. I have several questions:

1. The UPR is two peices, do you peice it together after the mid pipe is connected back on the manifolds or do it while the entire midpipe is off the car?

2. There is about a 2" peice of pipe w/ a flange on it. Must help seal something up. Where does this go? Just a little unsure as per UPR's instructions mention nothing of it.

3. Any other hints would be helpful.

Hopefully this hasn't been asked to many times as I searched for at least 20 min. today not finding what I had just asked.

Thanks!

Ok, for question 1.
I connected the second piece after i connected it to the manifold.

2. To be honest with you...I dont remember. I think it goes where the x pipe meets the catback.

3. I had to get different size bolts cause it was different from the ones I had with my magnaflow x pipe. Check it before you take the pipe you have on now, so if you need to get different size bolts, you wont have to put it all back to make a trip to te store

streetstang03 · Apr 15, 2005

it should look like this:

View attachment 517412

suggestions;
get some swivel sockets and lots of extensions to unbolt the stock h pipe from the headers.
I used a really long flat head screw driver to get the front O2 sensors disconnected (be careful not to hit the started with the screw driver unless you like sparks and electricity )

Oh: and i put the xpipe part on first and then the other piece i thought this was the best way to go for alignment purposes. i dont think it matters which goes first though.

SonicBlueBabe · Apr 15, 2005

streetstang03 said:
I used a really long flat head screw driver to get the front O2 sensors disconnected (be careful not to hit the started with the screw driver unless you like sparks and electricity )

LMAO! I learned after the first time i changed out my x pipe to just disconnect the battery....ouch...much easier than trying to avoid touching the starter

streetstang03 · Apr 15, 2005

werd. I forgot to disconnect the battery during my install. i didnt remember until i had the car on the lift, so i just put a shop rag over the starter to avoid getting zapped

STNG_96 · Apr 15, 2005

1st question- I put my MAC x-pipe all together after it was on the car. It also came in two pieces. Helps you to figure out where that second pipe should be before you tighten it up.
2nd question- sorry, dont understand

3rd question- Get under there and spray some sort of WD40, or whatever to help the manifold bolts break loose tommorow. After 3.5 hours of heating and beating, we ended up having to cut one of the studs off . It was just way to seized up. After that, the install was a breeze.

Good luck

twogts4us · Apr 15, 2005

Get a pair of mechanic's gloves...seriously. Unless you enjoy bloody knuckles.

KAILUAZ · Apr 15, 2005

I used the flange on the pass side where the two pipes bolt together. I needed the extra thickness to bolt up the mufflers.

The biggest problem I had was disconnecting the h20 sensors from the top of the transmission. I ended up using the tire iron to pop the plastic wire clip off to get the extra inches on the wiring. Then pull the harness down from under the car to disconnect. I cut off the alignment clips on the h20 sensors to make it easier to plug back in.

When you get under there and see this will all make sense.

Good luck,,, and yeah,, I hit the starter also,,, I freaked cause I thought the car was going to jump in gear and come off the jacksatnds!!

UPR sounds AWESOME!!!

Justin03GT · Apr 15, 2005

the extra flange goes in the drivers side connection to the header...it helps seal the connection, without it, it will leak no matter how tight the bolts are...

good luck with the pass side header bolts, i had to take mine to a shop with power tools to get it loosened, with all of the extensions and swivel socket, i couldnt get enough torque to break one of them loose, and i'm no small fry, i'm a big dude that is used to turning wrenches.... its not a bad job really, just dont let the stock h fall on you...it hit my head when i took it off and its kinda heavy.....

streetstang03 · Apr 16, 2005

ya, i was surprised at how heavy the stock hpipe was too. im glad i had a lift and air tools to do my install. made it sooo much easier.

KAILUAZ · Apr 16, 2005

Yeah,,, I needed a long piece of metal tubing to get extra torque on the wrench.
Id also use a jack to hold up the stock H pipe so it doesn't come crashing down on your head.
I used the flange on the pass side connection, my headers don't leak.

try2catchmy99 · Apr 16, 2005

I didnt use the flange at all and it doesent leak. Didnt notice I had the flange until I finished and lowered the lift and saw the extra piece. Oh well, I guess I was lucky

SonicBlueBabe · Apr 16, 2005

KAILUAZ said:
I used the flange on the pass side where the two pipes bolt together. I needed the extra thickness to bolt up the mufflers.

The biggest problem I had was disconnecting the h20 sensors from the top of the transmission. I ended up using the tire iron to pop the plastic wire clip off to get the extra inches on the wiring. Then pull the harness down from under the car to disconnect. I cut off the alignment clips on the h20 sensors to make it easier to plug back in.

When you get under there and see this will all make sense.

Good luck,,, and yeah,, I hit the starter also,,, I freaked cause I thought the car was going to jump in gear and come off the jacksatnds!!

UPR sounds AWESOME!!!

Yeah, that's when I hit the starter too, when i had the car up on jackstands. I hate changing any of my midpipes without a lift! I'm small, so i'm sure it was easier for me than most of you guys, but you wanna talk about PITA??! My friend let me use his lift last time I put my magnaflow x back on, took less than half the time

shotime · Apr 16, 2005

Thanks for the respsonses guys!! Didn't get around to it today, ended up taking my dads vert out and ceaning out the garage. My buddy is gonna help me do it tom. I have power tools, so that is no problem, I just hope we can have enough room to work without using a lift!!!

So does anyone know for sure about where that extra gasket peice goes?

Pughman · Apr 16, 2005

i did mine today .... man it was EZ !!!! ...here are some pics and a vid...

View attachment 517280

View attachment 517282

vid ....might load slow.....

http://www.excelsiornews.com/pics/chris/mvi_0938.avi

shotime · Apr 17, 2005

Got it on today! Would've been a ton easier if we had a lift, but it was straight forward and we had no problems. Manifold bolts were a sinch(sp?), but the midpipe to cat back bolts were rusted badly. The sound difference is awesome 2200-2500 rpms the exhuast cracks unlike anything i've ever heard!

Pughman · Apr 17, 2005

good good....

merc123 · Apr 17, 2005

I had to use a heat torch and stud puller to get my studs out. It broke off on the driver's side.

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