Any suggestions on parts?

[stephen4785]

I want some direction to go with this. I want to get the lower 1/8 and 1/4 times. My general thought process is "Enough power is never enoguh".With that said I want to eventually run a turbo(or 2), NOS untill I get the boost, iv got a 9 inch rear end to go in(3.73 locker),waiting to install my Holley 670 street avenger, stall convertor, headers-h pipe-spintech or flowmasters. I want some AFR heads but dont know which ones. I dont want to mess with the dissplacement. Anyone got any suggestions on some different parts? My ultimate plan is to beat my g/f's 01 WS6. Well thanks for any help.

1968 302 block
1969 351W heads
1984 crankshaft turned -.010
ARP rod bolts
Speed Pro hyperutectic flat top coated skirt pistons
Total seal gapless rings
Cloyes double roller timing chain
Comp Cam 280H hydrualic flat tappet cam(280-280 512-512 110deg)
Comp cam lifters
Comp Cam 1.6 roller tip rockers
Comp Cam double spring valve springs
Valve shims
Weiand Xcelerator intake manifold
Holley 670 Street Avenger carb
Mallory Unilite Comp 9000 distributor
MSD wires
Autolite plugs
1 inch carb spacer
K&N air filte

 

[66P51GT]

I see two potential problems with your build if you go on the juice:

1. Hyperutectic Pistons
2. Gapless Rings

If you stay with a smaller shot <100 then you may be OK. Anything more and the added cylinder pressure may destroy your pistons.


All the power won't make any difference if you can't plant it in the gates. Get some MT Streets or other DOT drag tire out back. You have a '68 so you can get some fat rubber out back without too much trouble.

You've got a good combo now. Get it to hook and get your 60' times down and you should give the Sheela a run for here money.

 

[gp001]

A couple of JATO units and you'll rocket right past her

 

[66P51GT]

A couple of JATO units and you'll rocket right past her

You're been reading the Darwin awards archives again haven't you.

 

[gp001]

You're been reading the Darwin awards archives again haven't you.

Mythbusters

 

[stephen4785]

Well Iv got a 65 GT so theres not much room for anything unless I tub it(no fender flares). Yeah Iv been toying with the idea of swaping out some fordged pistons but its a daily driver and I cant down it for more than 2 days. I know if I jump into and its my only vehicle then something will go wrong.

 

[stephen4785]

Also, Iv been told by Total seal and others that run boost that the rings wont be a problem as long as I dont run some major boost or major NOS through it.

 

[mustangdave]

The AFR heads will make a big difference and take advantage of that cam. I would also suggest an Edel. rpm air gap intake or maybe even a victor jr. You will also need a decent gear in the rear, (I didn't see any mention of that).

 

[Max Power]

Heads and good exhaust.

 

[10secgoal]

I have the same rings as you and total seal told me to open up the rings a good bit to .027. The problem is if the heat up and expand (and they will) the top ring will close popping off the top of your piston. Opening it up will solve that problem by letting the gas exit back past the top ring. When it gets trapped between the first and second ring is when you have a problem.

 

[stephen4785]

Iv got there claimer series rings. Ony the top ring is a gapless ring. Does that make any difference?

 

[thehueypilot]

No substitute for cubic inches!

 

[10secgoal]

No substitute for cubic inches!

There are a few. 427 w/225's < 302 185's +150 shot

Heres the potential problem

427 and 225's + 150 shot VS 302 and 185's + 150 shot =

I was I had the money for cubes man. But I'll keep the kit for now....then when I get a bigger motor...I'll probably keep the kit, too.

Stephen. The gap in the first ring is supposed to be the only one. The problem is under high cylinder pressure and heat, the ring could expand until the ends of the top ring match. And since the pressure will still get by the ring it will be trapped between the gapless secondary ring, and the now gapless first ring. Pressure will continue to build because it can't keep it out and it can't bleed off before the next power stroke. This happens until your landrum (piston top) literally pops off. You need to file the top ring accordingly to the amount of nitrous or boost you run because they CANNOT TOUCH. I wouldn't worry if you don't plan to go over a 100shot.

 

[87gn2]

HEADS!

Why is it that every other post I make is about AFR heads???

 

[10secgoal]

HEADS!

Why is it that every other post I make is about AFR heads???

Because they're the sh!znit !!

 

[D.Hearne]

I see one other huge problem with what he's got and what he wants to do---------That 84 crank won't last 5 minutes under boost. I'd give it slightly more time ( 10 minutes) without boost. The early 50 oz/in cranks were the worst ones for 302's that Ford made. I've seen two backin the 80's that were broken in half, both in stock applications. And recently another in a HP application.