those are the exact ones being discussed, they are useless.Dayzed50 said:Here's a shot of the valley girdles I've recently come across. They look to be bolted in, as welding to a cast iron block is discouraged. I think theses are made by Valley Pro Girdles if I remember right. Look like they may be effective.
sbftech said:those are the exact ones being discussed, they are useless.
and lose the pushrods, NEVERS&B said:4.6 motor swap for the win
stock blocks can handle tons of hp
I have ran small blocks on the street in chicago traffic with the block filled to the bottom of the pump holes, a stout cooling system and there were no problems. As for your siamese bore concerns, look how many 400 small block chevys were crawling around, those are siamese bore. No problems there. Dart blocks are gonna go between 1800-2000 plus machine work.Dayzed50 said:I'm convinced. This stock block is for the most part a lost cause. I don't want to use block hardener as it reduces coolant capacity and I don't want to install an external reservoir and I take this car for trips, long cruises, ect. so the cooling system must be adequate and reliable. And yes, the valley girdles look chincy with those screws they call bolts. I've done some research on aftermarket blocks and I gotta say I'm leaning towards the worlds man 'o war but it's way pricey. I've read the sportsman blocks aren't all that great, the r302 blocks have siamese bores so heat issues can arise, and I really can't find much info or pricing on dart blocks. I want to stay with a 302 platform, 8.2" deck ect,may 331 it or stick with my current internals. Are their any options I'm not aware of? Is their a cheaper way to go than a world block while still being fairly reliable and strong?
good choice on the canfields, who did ya get em from? Well your in somewhat of a tough spot. I would go either mexican or step up to the aftermarket offerings and skip the sportsmanDayzed50 said:as I sit right now I'm putting roughly 435-450hp to the wheels. 12.38@121.5 with 2sec 60ft and street tires. I have a set of canfield 192 alum heads on the way as well as a trickflow r intake, upgrading from powerheads and cobra intake. I don't imagine I'll spin it up past 6500rpm. I'd like the piece of mind of knowing my block, whichever I decide to get, should handle my setup.
No mexican blocks are not machined for factory roller setups, the problem with machining them is that the lifter bores are not tall like late model blocks, thus needing a small base circle cam which are absolute crap. So that thought is out. I keep forgetting everyone wants to run hydraulic roller lifters. How many miles a year do you drive thgis car?Dayzed50 said:I actually bought the heads from an add right here in stangnet classifieds, should be here either today or tomorrow. Now the mexican blocks aren't roller are they? which means they would have to be machined for the lifter retainers and I would have to purchase a cam with a different lobe center for the conversion, or did they produce any roller mexis?
oh **** I thought this was a daily driver with mileage, I would definately run a solid roller cam by all means. Then it doesnt matter about the block. The mexican block will hang theres no doubt about it. If your planning on over 600hp I would look into a block.Dayzed50 said:I put roughly about 3-6k miles a year on it, and I want to maintain good driveablilty. By the sounds of it I imagine I should invest about $2k in a block that'll fit my setup, as changing over to solid lifters along with a different block will net about the same pricetag in the long run.
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