Anyone ever end up doing this? Roll'on paint job?

plainsmen said:

Here's a couple links I tracked down to help us... someone had put the posts together to make instructions.

As for the paint job in 2-3 years... who knows.... Challenger in the original post said he's had his for several years with no problems. Of course.... if you want a ultra high quality lasting paintjob... I'm sure a shop could help you out for 4k. I think this is more along the lines for those who want a nice daily driver paintjob. If it goes to hell in 3 years I'll just sand it down and repaint it. What's it gonna take.. 3 days and maybe 75 bucks then?

Like alot of the guys were saying... if I get a scratch... or big fat rockchip it doesn't break my heart to much you know? Not like if that were to happen to my new 4k paintjob.


Rust-Oleum Method

Brightside Method

Video where Exit1965 shows the consistency he uses when painting (he's done it several times)

Consistency Video

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wow, it looks like water....i dono why i just thought it would of been thicker......

ive been reading and people say you dont need to primer, but i was just wondering if anyone has primerd their car before roller painting it??..

I'm really considering doing this when I'm done with the body work. I want a darker red and I figure to put down a covering of dark primer over the entire car before paint mostly to cover fresh body work cause the car sits outside under a tarp. I'm on page 8 of the continuation thread and want to read through it all. I would like to use the industrial line (more color choices including clear in gallons and maybe more durable) but haven't seen it discussed yet. It would be perfect as the car is intended to be my daily driver when its done and I wouldn't worry about stone chips like are accumulating on the front and rockers of my ZX2.

ok..here we go again. This gets posted EVERYWHERE. I have sprayed rustoleum on a 79 monte carlo and my 66 coupe. I used a sprayer, not a roller. The paint does a great job leveling itself but let me say this:

If you spend all that time working the body (im talking 50hrs of body sanding) why would you bother go half@$$ on the paint. Its not worth it. Now if you have a new car with NO bondo and needs very minor work, then yeah, its a good way to go for a cheap cheap paint job. We first tested this paint on my buddies 79 monte...trust me it couldnt get any worse. it came out pretty good (we didnt touch the bodywork other than filling and grinding a couple holes) and it came out ok. For a beater its good. For the 66 I wanted a flat black and other stuff like the Dupont is expensive. It does good for what it is. I just hate to see someone spend weeks and weeks of hard work just to test the roll on paint job. Just remember..if you dont like the outcome, you have to sand the paint off before doing a real paint job. Dont know many people willing to sand a few layers of paint with 240/400grit pulling off paint. If you dont and go back down to a 80/180 to get the paint off fast...more body sanding with a long block and probably more primer work

Speaking for myself. If I were building the car to be a weekend cruiser/part time show car I could see the point in spending the money for a flawless paint job. I'm building my car to drive. I drove it daily before I tore it down. I will drive it rain or shine again. I've had experience with cheap paint jobs on my 79 stang and was not at all happy with the results. Both instances I could do a better job with spray bombs. I've had local ford dealers repair my ZX2 twice (woman backed into the LR corner and I slid on ice). Two different dealers, same quality, looks fine from a distance but I can spot the flaws, again, ok for a driver. My mustang will never be worth anything to anyone but me. It will never have full coverage insurance, only liability. If it gets damaged I'll just fix it.

I know a thing or two about paint, I hung out at the body shop across the street where I grew up in the early 70s and understand enamels as that was mostly what he painted back then. Sure there's been improvements over the years and I'm confident of doing a paint job acceptable for my purposes. I painted my custom 81 Chevy LUV truck back in 88 in a spray booth I had access to then. I covered it with BC/CC silver metalic. I helped a friend paint his 72 chevelle dark green with twin black stripes, also BC/CC around the same time. Why would you spend all that $$$ on paint and body work and not have the engine professionally built? Why, because we're all enthusiasts and do stuff on our cars to save money and take pride in doing as much as we can ourselves. Just because its a different method to paint doesn't mean its half-@$$d. Probably less effort with this method than a quality laquer job. At least no more.

It really seems to me that everyone who is dead set against this on no matter what forum you read about it all miss the same crucial point. No one claims it to be better than a spray job and certainly not a professional one and no one claims it to be any less labor intensive in the long run than spraying it yourself. The whole point aside from a budget is also that it is more convienient for the average DIY Joe. Even if you already own a compressor and even if you have a completely emptied out one car garage all for your car and nothing else and even if you can make it a dust free environment and keep the floors wetted down and have it well ventilated and a respirator, spraying a car is no easy task and certainly can't be spread out over the course of several weekends if need be. And if you don't already have all of the above ingriedients nor the funds/options to obtain them than you are pretty much SOL and will still have to spend more for a somewhat crappy Mayco type job. How bad could you honestly do, especially if you have more time than Money?

Would I do it to my Mustang, no way in hell but on a dailey driven budget beater or POS haul around truck I think I would absolutley give it a shot for sure.

My buddy once told me that he was sick of seeing me drive my mustang around in grey, flaking off primer.

My excuse always is: 1. I need the car and can't take it out of commission long enough to paint it. 2. My garage isn't big enough to open the car door inside, let alone doing body work then manouvering around trying to spray a good shot on. And 3. I don't have the money to have a good shop do it.

He said, "You know, even a bad paint job is better than no paint job."

I agree this is no professional job and isn't suppose to be. It is definately focused for the bang for the buck crowd that has a bit of time to spare and is a good alternative to the Maaco or other cheapo places which will probably turn out better/last longer. Typically most of us work on our cars for the joy of it... hell why not paint it too. Definately something you can sit back and appreciate. If it comes out well, great... if not im out 50 or so bucks but at least tried and probalby learned a couple things in the process. Get a scratch on my car... im not gonna cry and/or beat the offender to a pulp. My friend is a total skeptic because he use to work at a body shop. To a point I am too but I don't have much to loose... My 90's clear coat is faking off and the paint was pretty oxidized which some rubbing compound helped a whole lot... but not a solution.
Kevin

I wish that I had found this thread a couple years ago. My work van had that factory water based primer, and the top coat of paint was sheeting off. The van looked terrible. We had to strip it down to bare metal
I must have spent $500 in spray bomb primers etc.

The roll on paint technique would have been great for this vehicle.

plainsmen said:

So how did your '66 turn out? You have any pictures? I've yet to see pics of a classic 'stang fully done. I'd love to see the results.

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theres a couple pics..the car needs bodywork. I did a bit (mostly patching panels) but needs all the bondo work done to it still. Being flat it helps disguise the nasty body. The fenders got a thing base coat and got a 2nd coat after the pics. It looks smoothish like the rest of the body.

xoxbxfx said:

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theres a couple pics..the car needs bodywork. I did a bit (mostly patching panels) but needs all the bondo work done to it still. Being flat it helps disguise the nasty body. The fenders got a thing base coat and got a 2nd coat after the pics. It looks smoothish like the rest of the body.

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Your car looks excellent with those Mach1 rims, do you think there will be any rubbing issues in the rear w/those ? I have a '68 rear end in my '66, so the 2" wide difference may finally be a benefit for me when I get my bullits or Mach1's.