Anyone have poly rear spring isolators?

[slvrbullIT]

I was looking under my car today and noticed that the rear spring isolators are toast. They were just hanging inside of the springs, not even under them.
Does anyone have the poly ones and how do you like them? Im also wandering if it will help the rear of my car from bottoming out over dips in the road. I know that it will raise it slightly so I hope it helps. I already ordered some bbk poly ones and they are coming Wednesday. Thanks.

 

[nyuk98gt]

slvrbullIT:

I have Prothane (polyurethane) isolators on front and back and they have held up very well (+2 years). When I am under the car, I look at them and, apart from a little road grime, they look as good as new. Don't worry about raising your ride height, the difference is minimal (less than 1/4").

They will not help with bottoming problems. If you haven't done it, you should put in a shorter bump stop (look right above the pumpkin for the rubber 'wedge'. MM makes a nice little blue number (about 1" shorter than the stocker) than will help with travel. If that doesn't do it, then your car may be ready for new shocks and struts. How old are the Tokicos?

 

[slvrbullIT]

thanks for the info, yeah i already have a shorter bbk bumpstop and im not sure how old the tokicos are. they were on the car when i bought it one year ago. also, it doesnt really bottom out it kinda makes a clunk noise over big dips. i recently looked at my exhaust and it has scratch marks from it hitting the axle over these bumps. does anyone know how to fix this?

 

[slvrbullIT]

anyone?

 

[nyuk98gt]

slvrbullIT:

OK, here's short 'how-to':

1. Raise the car to get access to the exhaust. It is preferable to have the car on Rhino ramps so that the suspension is loaded and is in the normal position that it is relative to the exhaust system.
2. Loosen the clamps (muffler-to-tailpipe joints) and the flanges at the cat-back. Use PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench (or your favorite penetrating oil) on the nuts/threads.
3. Slide the tailpipe forward (into the muffler). Check that the apex of the tailpipe bend is directly over the axle. If the joints have been crimped by muffler clamps, you may need to use a block of wood and a rubber mallet. Just be careful not to crush or dent the tailpipe.
4. Look at the exhaust from the outlet tip forward and make sure there is clearance of at least 1/4" (more is better). Run your hand along the entire exhaust to ensure that there is clearance. The gas tank corner is one spot where the exhaust can interfere. The point is that the exhaust can be adjusted length-wise (from front to rear) and axially (clockwise, counter-clockwise as viewed looking into the exhaust tip). These give you the adjustability that you need.
5. When everything is just right, tighten all of the joints.
6. Make a fist and gently rap the exhaust to see (hear) if there are any interference points.
7. Check the clamps/joints after a few rounds of driving (say, 100 miles) because they can loosen due to the cold-hot cycling.

Hope this helps.

Chris

 

[slvrbullIT]

nyuk98gt:
Thanks man, i really appreciate you helping me out. I got under there and unbolted the catback and turned each muffler up as high as it could go. When i rotated the muffler i could see the whole pipe turning up higher away from the axle. Then i went out and test drove it over the same bump that used to cause it and the noise is gone! Im so happy that the clank is gone, it has been bothering me for 3 months.

 

[nyuk98gt]

slvrbullIT:

Glad to hear (har har) that the clank is gone.

Enjoy!

Chris