Anyone running a HO Alternator, say over 200A? I was looking at the Mechman Alternators they have a 320A or so big. Only problem is it's for a 2009 mustang & I have no idea what that entails to make work with my 84. I've read several threads on the 3G swap, where to get the 3G swap kits, and how to piece those kits together if you'd rather save money. I'd like to hear some setups you guys/gals have.
Anyone Here Running Ho Alternator?
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What on earth are you doing that you need more than the 180a that the 3g puts out?
I dont know how larger yourelooking to go im running a nakamichi pa 200, Prescion power ax400 4ch , us amps 1200 watt amp for my sub, sony xec1000 crossover all off a 3g alt with no issues.
@TOOLOW91 Thanks for responding. I was getting nervous I wouldn't have much help here. I haven't decided which subs I want yet. As far as the lows I plan on running either the SQ2200 or the VFL 175.1. After I break in the subs will determine if I end up strapping two together, which is the plan. For the mids & highs. I'm looking at getting the Diamond Micro-04 for my four 6.5" Crossfires, two 3.5" Polks, & two 6x9's (I haven't purchased yet, either PRV or McLaren).
Yes part of my "Street Car" deal is i must have a Clean SQ based stereo with a little thump. I just dont really mention it much here because thats not what this place is about
Looking at your setup that was what I concluded, a nice SQ setup. I'm going for high SPL with a moderately good SQ as well. Got a few shows me and my buddies go to, they compete. I watch and learn. Love to hit a 150 in the fox. I know most guys think rattle is childish and while I agree to a point. I'm more concerned with how it sounds/feels inside the car. I can care less about the people outside of MY car ha-ha.
Unless you plan to run that thing at full blast whenever the ignition switch is on, I can't see a 3g not handling that. 12 volts at 180 amps is 2,160 watts. 14 volts puts it at 2,520 watts.
Either number is roughly 3 times what most car batteries are capable of supplying.
If you're worried about power consumption for a stereo system, I might concentrate more on dual batteries than I would a beefier alternator. I might even setup a deep cycle and charger as the second battery.
A single 3G alternator will top off two regular car batteries in roughly 30 minutes or less of highway cruising. The ability to generate power for your system is not the primary concern. STORING that power and having ample output for surges is where a lot of the problem lies.
Either number is roughly 3 times what most car batteries are capable of supplying.
If you're worried about power consumption for a stereo system, I might concentrate more on dual batteries than I would a beefier alternator. I might even setup a deep cycle and charger as the second battery.
A single 3G alternator will top off two regular car batteries in roughly 30 minutes or less of highway cruising. The ability to generate power for your system is not the primary concern. STORING that power and having ample output for surges is where a lot of the problem lies.
The SQ2200 puts is labeled for 2200 watts @ 14V wired to 1 ohm. The VFL is labeled for 3300 watts @ 14V wired to 1 ohm. Both put out significantly higher #'s before you get to much distortion. After strapping two together were talking 400-500A between the two. Then I still have the Micro-04(s) to worry about, which compared to my lows don't pull that much power. Although, I have noticed it's easier to get an amp to clip with mids and highs than lows. Sorry @Noobz347 forgot to mention I will be running one D3100 and one XS 3000.
The question is really about how much power all of that equipment will consume before your ears begin to bleed.
I will guess that it will not consume that much power while you are within the confines of that little Pony car.
That brings me back to having the ability to power all of this equipment while the car is stationary and you're standing next to it while trying to get chicks into it (I hope you're not still using the bag and tag method). Deep cycles require some time to peak charge while automotive batteries do not. With that much power consumption, you're getting into the range of needing more than just two batteries. Assuming that, that's all correct, then yeah... an alternator with more capability would be high on my list but still not nearly as important as your power storage solution.
130 amps is a LOT of juice! Still considerably more than all of that equipment at RMS power. You have to weigh how much of the time that the entire system spends at these power levels. It's not the alternator that has to carry this load it's your batteries. All it does is charge the storage solution. 130 amps as a battery charger is significant. Not trying to talk you out of a larger unit, just trying to put alternator output in some perspective with rest of the components that are expected to support this thing.
Question becomes: With me in the car and driving it, how much power will the stereo system ACTUALLY consume before this happens:
Just like building car or even a motor... It becomes a balancing act of matching components.
I wish I had a link to good automotive audio forum for ya. Haven't been to one in years so could not recommend. Some of those guys have pretty solid formulas about output vs. consumption vs. charging, etc.. Actual charging capability is only a percentage of the storage capability.
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@Noobz347 Ha-ha I understand your point, although I have been in cars/trucks/vans/hearses with way more power than this. Most of the time when you get to the 160-ish db level you are out of the car and burping the system (short blast of a certain freq. that your system peaks at). Bag & Tag meh, I'm still more into the caveman style Club & Drag. Since after all that's where the 
saying came from .
I understand at nominal power most of this would suffice but I'm worried about voltage drop at full tilt. That's when I fry something expensive ha-ha. Did you check out the two batteries I posted?
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_38730_XS-Power-D3100.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_43960_XS-Power-XP3000.html
You know, now that we're getting gears turning here. What if I just opted to make a bracket and run two stock mustang 3g's. The bracket would be pricey but hell I'd save alot compared to the one big alternator.
Just got off the phone with Powermaster, they want me to send this hunk of junk back to them to replace it. Pffft screw that!
saying came from .I understand at nominal power most of this would suffice but I'm worried about voltage drop at full tilt. That's when I fry something expensive ha-ha. Did you check out the two batteries I posted?
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_38730_XS-Power-D3100.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_43960_XS-Power-XP3000.html
You know, now that we're getting gears turning here. What if I just opted to make a bracket and run two stock mustang 3g's. The bracket would be pricey but hell I'd save alot compared to the one big alternator.
Just got off the phone with Powermaster, they want me to send this hunk of junk back to them to replace it. Pffft screw that!
@Noobz347 Ha-ha I understand your point, although I have been in cars/trucks/vans/hearses with way more power than this. Most of the time when you get to the 160-ish db level you are out of the car and burping the system (short blast of a certain freq. that your system peaks at). Bag & Tag meh, I'm still more into the caveman style Club & Drag. Since after all that's where the
I understand at nominal power most of this would suffice but I'm worried about voltage drop at full tilt. That's when I fry something expensive ha-ha. Did you check out the two batteries I posted?
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_38730_XS-Power-D3100.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_43960_XS-Power-XP3000.html
You know, now that we're getting gears turning here. What if I just opted to make a bracket and run two stock mustang 3g's. The bracket would be pricey but hell I'd save alot compared to the one big alternator.
Just got off the phone with Powermaster, they want me to send this hunk of junk back to them to replace it. Pffft screw that!
Oh oh oh oh.... I made an assumption from your last post without actually clicking on the links.
My assumption was that these were links to additional amps that were going to be included and not batteries (I read the links. The visual processors for the interwebz are controlled by the Matrix.
).Yeah... With those two batteries, all you would really require are a couple of decent sized capacitors to take the big hits. I just wanted to mention/remind that it is not the function of the alternator to control voltage spikes. That is the job of your storage system. The regulator on the alternator was only designed to regulate ITSELF.
Lol My dad always told me never trust a computer you can throw out a window. He's a mainframe guy.Oh oh oh oh.... I made an assumption from your last post without actually clicking on the links.
My assumption was that these were links to additional amps that were going to be included and not batteries (I read the links. The visual processors for the interwebz are controlled by the Matrix.
Yeah... With those two batteries, all you would really require are a couple of decent sized capacitors to take the big hits. I just wanted to mention/remind that it is not the function of the alternator to control voltage spikes. That is the job of your storage system. The regulator on the alternator was only designed to regulate ITSELF.
Really even capacitors with those two bad boys. I really don't want to run a capacitor/Band-Aid. I understand that the regulator doesn't control the voltage spikes, but doesn't the alternator being big enough to re-juice the batteries have alot to do with preventing voltage drops.
Un-related Side Note: I'm sitting out on my back porch and just saw a squirrel fall out of a tree & THUMP hit the ground. Ha-ha that never gets old.
To some degree but it's really a function of the battery. The alt consistently charges the battery and feeds juice to everything it touches. The battery is the buffer in the piping and it's because it is CONSIDERABLY faster at changing directions. No moving parts.
So you get BIGGER batteries and don't need nearly as big an alternator since you are not running anything close to full tilt 90% of the time. Even with the generally smaller alternator it should have time to re-juice everything.
My thinking is if you're pulling a significant amount of power through big batteries and a small alternator is feeding them. You're going to run those batteries down to nothing fairly quicker than that alternator can work.
My thinking is if you're pulling a significant amount of power through big batteries and a small alternator is feeding them. You're going to run those batteries down to nothing fairly quicker than that alternator can work.
I guess alot of it would it would depend on how much time to you expect to spend exceeding 130 amps. lol
My previous theft of avatar still applies.
My previous theft of avatar still applies.
Check www.paperformance.com
NVM... Here's an actual link: http://www.paperformance.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=200
They have install kits too though I think you mentioned that you have a plan for that already.
I think your plan is a good one though. Without breaking out the slide-rule, you can get everything you plan to run in place. After that, you can still add another alt and harness if it's not up to the job.
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