No idea about the harness yet. I have been reading some of the threads on the 3g swap but most are on the aero foxes do I need this kit for my 84? http://www.paperformance.com/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=73
Anyone Here Running Ho Alternator?
- Thread starter 85rkyboby
- Start date
Noooooooo.... Not unless you like fire!
You need a kit that is like the one that comes here:
http://www.paperformance.com/scripts/prodview.asp?idProduct=343
You can build one yourself easily enough. I would use a larger fuse and larger gauge wire for what you're trying to do.
Nevermind found this http://www.paperformance.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=95
That and a 4g with a fuse is all I need, correct?
That and a 4g with a fuse is all I need, correct?
I have a couple of resources for you.
Look at this one first:
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/resources/3g-alternator-fox-upgrade.18/
Once you've absorbed that article, look at this:
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/87-93-130amp-alternator-install-how-to.870572/
Be sure to take note of JRichker's comments.
Look at this one first:
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/resources/3g-alternator-fox-upgrade.18/
Once you've absorbed that article, look at this:
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/87-93-130amp-alternator-install-how-to.870572/
Be sure to take note of JRichker's comments.
The wire you pictured is for the regulator and exciter. The black/orange are the power feed wires. They should be the thickest of the wires attached to the alt.
I am still trying to picture that many watts in a Fox and where the equipment will fit. Will you be filling the back seat area or will a box fit to the hatch are be enough?
That's fine. I read the threads you shared. They made complete sense except for the orange&black wires. I understand not to tie them to your alternator post. I'm assuming you just tuck them away? I just got really confused when I went to look for the plug and white wire and found nada.
If I go with 8's or 10's it will all fit in the hatch. If I go 15's or 18's they will take up the back seat as well.
Yepperz! That's it.
Here's what I've found so far:
In this pic you can see where the poster crimped terminals onto the black/orange wires. That portion is not necessary and potentially dangerous.
It's best to leave these wires tucked away and use the larger gauge to supply power.
Attachments
Last edited:
Awesome, thanks a bunch! Just to confirm I need the 3g alternator, 3g harness, a spade connector for the white/black wire, 4g power wire, & a big mutha fuse. Then just hook the green wire from the voltage regulator to the green wire on the 3g harness. Correct?
Also, I ran 2 gauge grounds on the car. There is no reason to run a 2g + & - on the alternator correct?
You probably have this all figured out, but I was there as they started putting stupid big systems in cars.
Pumping that much power through small speakers should not be as efficient as running it through the same number of bigger speakers. Now using, for example, 4 eight inch vs 2 15's, especially phased in a sealed box so they work each other harder (or ported together for clarity) the smaller speakers might be the better idea. Either way, enjoy the math getting the speakers to match the box volume.
Pictures please! I am sure we will hear you!
I agree completely with what you're saying. The smaller ones such as 10's are actually better in a sense. The problem with the 15's & 18's is there's so much cone area/surface area that they start to wobble/flex more so than the smaller ones. 12's are generally perfect as 10's are good too. I just like how low the 18's get. Your talking 20hz! Ha-ha. I might need to do a build thread for the system to.
I will definitely be using a ported box with the subs facing up. Isn't someone on here doing somewhat of a HUGE system build thread?
