No idea about the harness yet. I have been reading some of the threads on the 3g swap but most are on the aero foxes do I need this kit for my 84? http://www.paperformance.com/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=73
No idea about the harness yet. I have been reading some of the threads on the 3g swap but most are on the aero foxes do I need this kit for my 84? http://www.paperformance.com/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=73Check www.paperformance.com
NVM... Here's an actual link: http://www.paperformance.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=200
They have install kits too though I think you mentioned that you have a plan for that already.
I think your plan is a good one though. Without breaking out the slide-rule, you can get everything you plan to run in place. After that, you can still add another alt and harness if it's not up to the job.
No idea about the harness yet. I have been reading some of the threads on the 3g swap but most are on the aero foxes do I need this kit for my 84? http://www.paperformance.com/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=73
Thanks buddy, will do.I have a couple of resources for you.
Look at this one first:
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/resources/3g-alternator-fox-upgrade.18/
Once you've absorbed that article, look at this:
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/87-93-130amp-alternator-install-how-to.870572/
Be sure to take note of JRichker's comments.
That's fine. I read the threads you shared. They made complete sense except for the orange&black wires. I understand not to tie them to your alternator post. I'm assuming you just tuck them away? I just got really confused when I went to look for the plug and white wire and found nada.They are in the first pic you posted.
Sorry bout that, I'm currently mobile.
If I go with 8's or 10's it will all fit in the hatch. If I go 15's or 18's they will take up the back seat as well.I am still trying to picture that many watts in a Fox and where the equipment will fit. Will you be filling the back seat area or will a box fit to the hatch are be enough?
Is this correct? @Noobz347
Awesome, thanks a bunch! Just to confirm I need the 3g alternator, 3g harness, a spade connector for the white/black wire, 4g power wire, & a big mutha fuse. Then just hook the green wire from the voltage regulator to the green wire on the 3g harness. Correct?Yepperz! That's it.
Here's what I've found so far:
In this pic you can see where the poster crimped terminals onto the black/orange wires. That portion is not necessary and potentially dangerous.
It's best to leave these wires tucked away and use the larger gauge to supply power.
You probably have this all figured out, but I was there as they started putting stupid big systems in cars.If I go with 8's or 10's it will all fit in the hatch. If I go 15's or 18's they will take up the back seat as well.
I agree completely with what you're saying. The smaller ones such as 10's are actually better in a sense. The problem with the 15's & 18's is there's so much cone area/surface area that they start to wobble/flex more so than the smaller ones. 12's are generally perfect as 10's are good too. I just like how low the 18's get. Your talking 20hz! Ha-ha. I might need to do a build thread for the system to.You probably have this all figured out, but I was there as they started putting stupid big systems in cars.
Pumping that much power through small speakers should not be as efficient as running it through the same number of bigger speakers. Now using, for example, 4 eight inch vs 2 15's, especially phased in a sealed box so they work each other harder (or ported together for clarity) the smaller speakers might be the better idea. Either way, enjoy the math getting the speakers to match the box volume.
Pictures please! I am sure we will hear you!
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