anyone out there hitting 11's naturally aspirated?
- Thread starter rei-04
- Start date
Look in the NMRA Pure Street class. They are all 310cid or under breaking into the 10's without poweradders.
slo65
New Member
i think killercanary (94/95 guy) i saw a video a while back, his dad's running 11.something n/a, both of those cars hook like a mother
25thmustang
Mustang Master
11s N/A is all a matter of good power and traction. I have confidence a simple heads/cam/intake combo could go 11s with a 1.5 60', some good driving and all the supporting bolt ons. I have personally driven my dads 1991 LX yo a 12.11. He has a stock bottem end, stock cam, unported GT-40Ps, unported Cobra intake, and a lot of suspension. Im sure a good cam and better heads on that car would send it well into the 11s...
Forced induction will be easier to make power, not necessarily easier to go 11s, as you still need to hook that power up!
Forced induction will be easier to make power, not necessarily easier to go 11s, as you still need to hook that power up!
Possibly not what you wanted, as this is a race only car, but here it is.
Been 11.38 @ 119 on a cold night. 351 no stroke or poke, no funny gas. Nothing special, but a consistent 11.xx car. This car was originally built as a street car and it would probably still run 11.9's in street trim.
Easy route to 11's na. 408, good heads, and selection of the rest of parts with a good suspension. Streetable, reliable fast. Cheap, no.
Been 11.38 @ 119 on a cold night. 351 no stroke or poke, no funny gas. Nothing special, but a consistent 11.xx car. This car was originally built as a street car and it would probably still run 11.9's in street trim.
Easy route to 11's na. 408, good heads, and selection of the rest of parts with a good suspension. Streetable, reliable fast. Cheap, no.
Killercanary (Paul Riva) has run 12.32 in his heavy ass 94 GT Convertable. I don't remember exactly the weight but my guess is somewhere around 3500-3700. I would have to look it up. All this on just under 300hp. I assume to be seeing him hitting the 11s very soon in his vert. His 60s are in the 1.6 range i believe.
My best 11.26@120 mph with a 1.53 60 ft.That with my new combo a dart block stroked to 347 (11.1) compression AFR 185's heads comp xe 282 hr cam and Edlebrock performer 2 intake 36 lb injectors 75 mm throttle body 80 mm pro-m with a 3.5 power pipe all through G-force(5 speed) and 4.10's gears.Motors has 1300 miles on it and i use synthetic only (after breaking motor) electric fan alum rad.I drive this on the street on nice days or when i want to.So its very streetable and i can get aver of 15-17 miles per gallon. I do have N20 but have not use it yet.Actually this is a toy for myself more for the street than strip.
Kabuki_notch
Founding Member
my friend runs 10.70 naturally aspirated with a 393 stroker with a c4 car is built for track strictly though
thanks for all the info guys. Know I know to hit 11's is going to cost some money, but was wondering if one route boosted or na could I save some money. I am only concerned about hitting 11's and keeping it street drivable. I will also be dropping about 200 lbs from the vehicle. I am just asking because was hoping to be able to keep the stock block and run about 450-500 fwhp w/custom chip and still hit 11's. I know I'll probably get to that desired range and then be addicted to get more power 
Well I know I could boost it with a turbo and get those times with the stock heads and cam, but the price would cost me about $5,200.00 including install. Just seeing if I could hit 11's cheaper than that.
Well I know I could boost it with a turbo and get those times with the stock heads and cam, but the price would cost me about $5,200.00 including install. Just seeing if I could hit 11's cheaper than that.
like others have said before, 11s isnt a matter of power so much, but its more of a suspension issue. you can prolly get into the 11s with low-mid 300 hp, but if you can get that to a 1.6 60', its gonna be rough.
illwood
Member
RIXX93GT said:
Along with slicks, the best drag racing suspension setups would be either a 4-link or ladder bar setup. Both of these setups will help by allowing you to adjust the Instant Center (IC) of the vehicle. Not to be confused with Center of Gravity (CG), the IC is the point in space where the reaction forces of the suspension meet to counteract the forces created by the torque at your rear wheels. The location of the IC is easiest to visualize in a 4-link setup because it is the location of the theoretical intersection if you were to extend the upper and lower link (in your mind) to where they would intersect in relation to your car. If your IC and your CG are in the same location, you have the entire mass of the car resisting rotation and in effect "planting" the rear tires even better. If you look at the NHRA Pro/Stock cars, they run 4-links and the back end really drops on the launch (providing better traction) by the reasons above. Pure drag cars even go as far as to run different rate springs on each side of the rear so that the springs prevent the differential housing and axle tubes from rotation (again the whole equal and opposite force thing, remember your driveshaft is rotating) thereby allowing an equal left and right contact patch.
*Note!!! All of this goes to doodoo if you spin the rear tires on the launch, so you need to run appropriate slicks for your car*
Hopefully this will be the winter that I get to finish my 1974 F100 Big Block Pro/Street truck project.
illwood
Member
One more thing. The same applies for ladder bars, but you can't adjust them so the IC is where it is.
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