Anyone runnin' spout out timing?

[PRO50SC]

How much timing are you runnin' and for what reason w/ no spout connected?

 

[PRO50SC]

How much timing are you runnin' and for what reason w/ no spout connected?

Bump

 

[jrichker]

Why would you want to do this? Remove the SPOUT and you get no spark advance. The timing stays at where you set it initially.

 

[89MustangGX]

Why would you want to do this? Remove the SPOUT and you get no spark advance. The timing stays at where you set it initially.

The idea is that it would work well in a situation like if you weren';t getting a quick enough spark advance. You'd set the timing at like 32 degrees with the spout out and leave it. It will make starting harder, but after that it could run better up top.

 

[PRO50SC]

Why would you want to do this? Remove the SPOUT and you get no spark advance. The timing stays at where you set it initially.

I read this in another forum and what 89mustanggx is mostly true. Here is a post reffering to the subject. I fall into the catagory.
spout out timing

This thread is a continuation from the first.
Discussion continued

 

[88stangracer]

no spout for me

I just put my car to TDC did the whole advance thing put the spout in.....My car ran like crap. I decided to take the spout out and try it....Man.. the car drives like it never drove before....so I left it out. Maybe Ill pay for it in the end. but oh well...Just one more thing to fix ya know.

 

[L8 MUSL]

I run the SPOUT out method. I lock timing down at 29 degrees and set my BTM at 1 to pull out 1 degree per pound of boost. My car runs better this way. It starts fine, idles a little rough when cold for the first 5 mins or so, but it pulls harder, has better throttle response and I don't get the mid throttle detonation that I got with the spout in.
I believe it is more benificial in a forced induction situation.

 

[jrichker]

I run the SPOUT out method. I lock timing down at 29 degrees and set my BTM at 1 to pull out 1 degree per pound of boost. My car runs better this way. It starts fine, idles a little rough when cold for the first 5 mins or so, but it pulls harder, has better throttle response and I don't get the mid throttle detonation that I got with the spout in.
I believe it is more benificial in a forced induction situation.

Sounds like it's time for a custom burned chip. Any car with forced induction should consider a custom burned chip and the dyno tuning time to go with it as part of the package. It makes the car run much better, and keeps the problems with too much timing or too little fuel under control.

 

[L8 MUSL]

Sounds like it's time for a custom burned chip. Any car with forced induction should consider a custom burn

Yes, I agree.
but for now the difference between 10 mins of timing work and 0 dollars vs. handing over my car and $600.00 to a good tuner is a simple decision dictated by economics (I'm a cheap bastard).

 

[jrichker]

"you pays your money and takes you choice" the old man said. Pain in the pocketbook is a part of the difference in having a car that just runs good or a car that runs great.

With a forced induction engine, a little too much or too little can induce great pain in the pocketbook when something fails. The cost of a dyno tune & custom chip is less than a rebuild when something goes badly wrong.

 

[L8 MUSL]

The cost of a dyno tune & custom chip is less than a rebuild when something goes badly wrong.

Yes, I know this. That is why I error on the Fat side (my car runs rich).
I made the mistake of running with the SPOUT in, letting the EEC handle the timing and promptly blew a head gasket due to part throttle detonation.
Since I replaced that I have gone back to the SPOUT out without any ill effects.
My car runs real good. Could I squeeze out more hp? Probably, but I will wait for the chip/tune untill I install some heads that I want to stay with.
(heads and a dyno tune, enough to give a cheap bastard like me a stroke!).
Pro50SC, If you do a search under this topic (especially on the Corral) you will find allot of info.