Anyone with a Master Power Brake Booster and Hydraulic Clutch

Ferf

Member
Dec 6, 2002
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I am running a power brake booster from Master Power Brakes. I would like to upgrade to a hydraulic clutch. I am looking at the kit from DazedCars (www.dazedcars.com) where the master cylinder for the clutch uses the existing hole in the firewall for the original clutch linkage.

My concern is that there will not be enough clearance for the clutch master cylinder due to the power booster being in the way. Is there anyone else that is running the Master Power Brakes brake booter and a hydraulic clutch?
 
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On a 65-66 I got it to work. This is when they would come with aluminum master cyl's. The pin at the bottom would barely hit the master cyl from the hyd clutch master cly. So I took the bottom pin and cotter pin out and shortened it and weld it in to clear. It worked fine. But now those boosters come with a chromed master cylinder. When you bench bleed it you can see chrome chips in the fluid and in the bottom of the master.
 
Yeah,
That Modern Driveline master cylinder kit is pretty slick and sanitary, (way better than my home brewed master) even if a tiny bit overpriced. Their slave kit is WAY overpriced and I'm not really fond of the bracketry for it. The one I designed is a lot like the one that DazeCarz does for the Tremec and I believe much sturdier than the Modern Drive and way-way sturdier than DazeCarz (and most others on the market) design for the T5. I just don't trust those tiny tabs on the side of the T5 case.
Just My $.02,
Gene
 
mustangmutt,
Sure does look the same, except the bleeder needs to be on the top, and cheap too. It supports exactly the point I was making about being overpriced. The slave I use is for a late 80's to early 90's chebby pickup. Like this:
Dorman CS37815 - Dorman Clutch Slave Cylinders - Overview - SummitRacing.com
can be had at regular parts stores for $39-$60. I'll post a pic of the bracket in a couple hours when I get a chance. And, yeah, I like the idea of the cleanliness, etc, of the hydraulic throwout bearing, but had the same misgivings as you, not to mention the $$$.
HTH,
Gene
 
Here's a pic of the hardboard template/prototype as I don't have any finished pieces that aren't installed or sold.
IMG_1792.jpg


Pushrod=3/8"-16 stainless threaded rod. The first I had was from DazeCars, but it was too short. I used his stainless ball. Not sure where to get a ball except to buy a cheap 3/8" heim joint and cut the ball out of it. Or maybe McMaster-Carr. The clearance is a tad tight between the bleeder/line fitting and the tunnel but it just makes it.
Gene
 
mustangmutt,
What year is your car and do you have a power brake booster? Wilwood 260-6089-3/4" and got a remote reservoir from an S-10 pickup in the bone yard. There was some futzin' & fabbin' aI must say that I really like that master setup from Modern Driveline. If it had been available at the time I may have sprung the extra $$ for it. If you are interested in a slave bracket, we should PM to avoid "pokin' the BEAR". :rolleyes:
Gene
 
Whatever master cylinder you end up with must be with remote reservoir and slightly deviated not to interfere with the booster. ~ 10° towards left inner fender. it is not possible to shift the booster to the front to make space for clutch MC (because brake MC will interfere with shock tower).
I have 19mm master and 18 mm slave and works fine.
IMO it is best and cheap to have made a custom brake hose with banjo ends to connect MC and SC. Use EPDM only hose between reservoir and MC. Brake fluid will melt regular rubber hose and hardens PVC.