Anything missing from this combo?

[Fast63]

Hey guys,

I had some problems with the 302 that used to be in my ranchero, and I purchased a 347 used that has never been run but sat for about 5 years. So I am currently rebuilding it because it got dirt on the inside of it (sat without and intake or valve covers and a period of time without an oil pan all uncovered). Anyways, this is what my combo consists of:

-Edelbrock Air-gap intake
-MSD pro billet distributor with blaster 2 coil
-Twisted Wedge heads
-10.5:1 compression
-Comp 282S Solid flat tappet cam 282/282 advertised duration, 236/236 duration at .050 lift, and .528/.528 lift
-1.6 roller rockers and one piece comp pushrods
-Some kind of billet timing chain set (brand is not marked on it) that has keyways for 2,4,6,8 degrees advance for the cam and 2,4,6 retard -- when I disassembled, it was on 2 degrees advance and I plan to put it back together that way
-2400 stall TCI converter for my C4
-Doug's Tri-Y headers, 1 5/8 primary 2 1/2 collector
-FRPP valve covers

I have a 650 speed demon carb for it, but it needs a rebuild so I will initially put a 750 edelbrock on it for break-in.

Rearend currently has 3.00 gears but I will be installing 3.55's and that will put me at 3000rpm at 65mph with my tire size. This will mostly be a street car taken to the track once in a while. The 347 kit is an older style that intersects the oil rings, but this is not a daily driver so I am not all that concerned. It has probe pistons, not sure if they are hypers or forged, is there an easy way to tell? Rods are H-beams. This engine was made by a professional company and is rated for 450 flywheel horse but I am not sure how accurate that is, what do you think?

Any suggestions about anything that is out of place or needs improvement?

 

[CraigMBA]

I would call Comp and ask them how you should set up the cam. A lot of cams come ground already advanced...........it matters.

 

[rbohm]

comp cams grinds their cams 5 degrees advanced to allow for timing chain stretch. probe pistons as i recall are all forged pistons. the easy way to tell is look at the underside of the piston, if it is smooth under there, then the pistons are forged. if there is a textured finish there then they are cast. if you cant tell, post up a pic for us.

 

[D.Hearne]

Comp recommends degreeing all their cams but the smallest grinds. Watch that timing set and make sure the cam gear isn't hardened steel. If it is, it'll eat right into the cast iron cam retainer plate. Been there-done that twice.

 

[bnickel]

Comp recommends degreeing all their cams but the smallest grinds. Watch that timing set and make sure the cam gear isn't hardened steel. If it is, it'll eat right into the cast iron cam retainer plate. Been there-done that twice.

agreed, degree the cam to the specs on the cam card if you have it or you can call the comp tech line and they can give you the specs if you give the part number. if it is a hardened cam gear on the timing set you can one of the torrington bearing conversions from summit for about 50 bucks or less, i'd recommend it anyway.

 

[D.Hearne]

I ordered the hardened steel cam plate from Summit that Ford racing makes for this and after waiting 4 weeks (backordered) I cancelled the order and went to O'Reilly's and got a new double roller set for a late model 5.0 and **** canned the Ford racing set with the hardened gear. The O'Reilly's set cost me less than $20 (Cloyes brand), the hardened plate was $40+.