AOD STALL CONVERTOR questions

[MCRParts.com]

Just bought a TCI 10" 2800 stall convertor,and a TCI AOD with a manual valve body today.

Does anyone out here know how stall convertors work,like how can I tell that it works at 2800 ?

These were my times last year with th stock AOD and these upgrades:

15.3,15.1,15.0

373s
Eaton diff
electric fan
pulleys

60' times were 2.3* trap speeds 93

do you guys think with the new tranny,my 60' time will go to 2.0
netting me a 14.5-14.0 at the traps ?

 

[393Bird]

IF your tires will take the higher torque load on them, you should see 2.0, or better.

 

[MCRParts.com]

IF your tires will take the higher torque load on them, you should see 2.0, or better.

The TCI tech said that he would build me a 2600-2800 stall. I told him I did drive the car on long cruises quite a bit.

DO you guys think that a 10" convertor at this stall will be both good on the highway,and fun at the track,got 373s in the rear end.

 

[393Bird]

The stall speed should be tied to the engine combination. It should be about 500 RPMs below the engines max torque RPM for best performance. If you select one above the max torque RPM, you will be missing out on the max torque that helps to launch the car. If too low of a stall, the car has to pull to get up to this point before it will reach max. The higher the max torque RPM is, and the more radical the cam, the higher the stall needs to be. My engines max torque is at 4,000 Rpms, and my stall speed is 3500. The higher the stall, the more need there is for added trans cooling. I am adding a 2nd 24,000 GVW cooler to mine this month to keep the trans temp down.

 

[davs5.0]

The TCI tech said that he would build me a 2600-2800 stall. I told him I did drive the car on long cruises quite a bit.

DO you guys think that a 10" convertor at this stall will be both good on the highway,and fun at the track,got 373s in the rear end.

Should be good. The smaller diameter than the stock 12" will help it spool up faster because of the less weight.

If you want to get the most out of your converter, put a tranny cooler on it, less heat will help it live longer. And get yourself some sticky tires. You'll be wasting all that new found torque multiplication with stock rubber.

I was cutting 1.83's with a 3000 stall on ET streets and mostly stock motor with 3.90 gears. Tires were a huge help. Without them, you'll just spin when youu leave at the higher rpm's.

 

[Qwk88LX]

You'll be happy with it..I just got my C4 installed with a reverse manual-valvebody & it's a totally different car! even though I have to order a 10" converter (probably 3200-3500) coz they sent me a 12" converter with the trans let us know how she pulls when you get it in.

 

[TheBocSez]

If I am understanding your question correctly, you are asking how you know if your 2800 stall is actually stalling at 2800 rpm.

Stall speed is an approximation, and varies based on engine power output. You can brake stall it and the engine will rev a little higher before the rear tires start to spin, or you can flash stall it and it will flash to a higher RPM before it lauches. Either way, you will be happy with it and see a reduction in your 60'.

I just put a non-lock 2800 stall in my AOD with a Lentech VB and I love it. My engine is mostly stock so it does not stall at 2800 exactly, but it does stall higher than stock. Being a non lock converter, it pulls harder in 3rd due to torque multiplication in 3rd gear instead of being "locked up" or almost directly tied to the crank rotation.

If you go to www.edgeracingconverters.com it has a good article about stall speed.

Hope I understood your question correctly or I just wasted a bunch of time typing

Other than that, do what everyone else said and definately get an auxilary tranny cooler. Being smaller than stock diameter, it will build more heat because it holds less fluid, add to that the fact that its slipping because of the extra stall built in and you can see where it will build heat.

With some sticky tires, I think this combo with put you into the 14's but maybe not a 14.0 since you dont have may engine mods listed.

Hope it helps
Paul

 

[MCRParts.com]

You'll be happy with it..I just got my C4 installed with a reverse manual-valvebody & it's a totally different car! even though I have to order a 10" converter (probably 3200-3500) coz they sent me a 12" converter with the trans let us know how she pulls when you get it in.

I'll keep you guys posted. I feel like a kid at Christmas time. The motor is still stock right now.

I built the car from the rear to the front.

 

[Qwk88LX]

I built the car from the rear to the front.

yeah, thats the way I would go if I had to do it over again

 

[MCRParts.com]

If I am understanding your question correctly, you are asking how you know if your 2800 stall is actually stalling at 2800 rpm.

Stall speed is an approximation, and varies based on engine power output. You can brake stall it and the engine will rev a little higher before the rear tires start to spin, or you can flash stall it and it will flash to a higher RPM before it lauches. Either way, you will be happy with it and see a reduction in your 60'.

I just put a non-lock 2800 stall in my AOD with a Lentech VB and I love it. My engine is mostly stock so it does not stall at 2800 exactly, but it does stall higher than stock. Being a non lock converter, it pulls harder in 3rd due to torque multiplication in 3rd gear instead of being "locked up" or almost directly tied to the crank rotation.

If you go to www.edgeracingconverters.com it has a good article about stall speed.

Hope I understood your question correctly or I just wasted a bunch of time typing

Other than that, do what everyone else said and definately get an auxilary tranny cooler. Being smaller than stock diameter, it will build more heat because it holds less fluid, add to that the fact that its slipping because of the extra stall built in and you can see where it will build heat.

With some sticky tires, I think this combo with put you into the 14's but maybe not a 14.0 since you dont have may engine mods listed.

Hope it helps
Paul

If I could squeak out consistant 14.5s this year I'd be happy. Then I'll start chippin away again.

 

[cjman15]

I hate AODs... No matter what anyone says, I never want one again... Stock ones are built for 5.0s, mine died not too long ago and all I have is first and reverse gear... I'm getting it converted to a T-5 as I write this... thank god

 

[Qwk88LX]

I hate AODs... No matter what anyone says, I never want one again... Stock ones are built for 5.0s, mine died not too long ago and all I have is first and reverse gear... I'm getting it converted to a T-5 as I write this... thank god

Thats why I switched to a C4..now that it's done, I'm kicking myself for not having done it sooner..nothing like laying rubber in 1st then shifting & doing it again in 2nd..plus I shed the extra weight and bulkiness of the AOD..& no, I don't miss Over Drive

 

[TheBocSez]

I have an AOD and its a vert'!! I will be happy with 14's also. Thats ok, a few more suspension mods then its onto the engine. If I can run low to mid 13's after the engine is done and still comfortably drive it every day then I will consider it a sucess.

 

[TC93]

An AOD set-up right can be fun and fast. Check out this link of my friends 93LX vert, with stock bottom end, GT-40 heads, Cobra intake,S-trim, AOD, with 4.10's. This is his old combo, now he runs 10's with the same AOD. Don't get me wrong, this is a built AOD, but just wanted to show they aren't that bad if built right.

93 vert with AOD

 

[MCRParts.com]

I have an AOD and its a vert'!! I will be happy with 14's also. Thats ok, a few more suspension mods then its onto the engine. If I can run low to mid 13's after the engine is done and still comfortably drive it every day then I will consider it a sucess.

My thoughts exactly. I building a nice crusing car that will handel its own at the track on street night. My goal is low 13s with leather,buzz windows and AC