I have a 69 coupe 302 with a c4 the cost to repair the c4 is over a 1000 bucks. Well that wont happen. Next tought is a used one. tough to find around here. so now its a AOD swap. where do you start. Do I just find a 302 mustang with a AOD and work backwards or is there one that fits with easy.
AOD swap where do you start.
- Thread starter 69 Capecod
- Start date
cougar_68
Founding Member
69 Capecod said:
You have to have a different flexplate(I believe), an AOD torque convertor, an AOD transmission, Conversion Crossmember, Kick down cable(might be called something else), a linkage conversion and maybe more. I don't know if you would need a different starter or not? If that's wrong info, I'm sure someone can/will correct me.
I got all my stuff from windsor-fox (www.windsor-fox.com), if you look at there website it shows all the stuff that they sell for AOD swap. Should give you a good idea of what you need.
cougar_68
Founding Member
cougar_68
Founding Member
Oh yeah, and get your driveshaft shortened and use a yoke from an AOD. I'll try not to post anymore "oh yeahs".
Shocwave04
New Member
Re
Thats sound like pretty much everything you need, I did an AOD conv on my 67 mustang fastback 302/C4. And yes you do need a differnt starter. When I did mine I also installed a B&M shifter since the AOD won't work with stock. With all the other stuff listed and a little beating on the trans tunnel it should work out pretty good.
Thats sound like pretty much everything you need, I did an AOD conv on my 67 mustang fastback 302/C4. And yes you do need a differnt starter. When I did mine I also installed a B&M shifter since the AOD won't work with stock. With all the other stuff listed and a little beating on the trans tunnel it should work out pretty good.
cougar_68
Founding Member
Shocwave04 said:
You can use the stock shifter with an AOD. Windsor-fox sells the linkage. I have it installed on mine right now. No tunnel beating for me either.
I got my tranny free it's a good tranny but may end up rebuilding it after the 300 hp 302 gets in front of it. lol At least this way I can test fit everything. It still cost me over a thousand. a good convertor 300 to 700 bucks. All the parts you need to convert 500 from califonia pony car thats the whole kit. Dallas Mustang also sales them. Now that is not including speedo gear starter and shifter/linkage. i already had a hurst from my c6 that was in the car also the starter from c6 works as well. then you have to have your drivline. as you can see parts - trans = way over 1000.00. with the price of gas it will be worth it but you may have to buy in pieces or save for the parts. I want a lentech so I may start saving for that lol
Hi guys I don’t post much anymore but I’ll add my 2 cents….
First off I want to say…………….search AOD in the search block and on Google, do some research and ask SPECIFIC questions. This subject get beat to death week after week on here!
Now I’ll add something constructive.
You DO NOT need to beat on anything…….ever during this swap. If you do, stop and come and ask some specific questions.
You can modify your existing shifter linkage, I did on mine, or you can fabricate your own using the Windsor-Fox website for a reference.
Here is a little light general reading to help you in the right direction…
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=forum&Number=678837
http://www.mustangsandmore.com/ubb/DanJonesC4AODswap.html
This is an excellent article on the shifter linkage.
http://home.online.no/~janekz/a/c4aod3.htm
I’m giving you this because getting parts from w/f nowadays is like pulling teeth for overpriced parts……don’t buy from them! But this is just one mans opinion.
There are a couple things that also need addressing. I longer bell housing bolts are needed (2 1/2”-2 3/4” long, don’t remember the o.d. like ½ I think)
Backup light/neutral safety switch; use a ‘69 FMX one that mounts in your shifter, not on the tranny.
get in contact with a good local driveshaft place incase you need to shorten the drive shaft, I didn’t need to, but I had a original FMX tranny.
Also, if you have headers, please understand it can be tight….expect to deal with exhaust and header modifications!
Other then that, include the little stuff in you price like fluid, cleaners, filter and gasket for the pan and remember the shifter rod position needs to be up, but that can be easily swaped in 10 minutes……read the vmf link I gave you up top.
This is the accelerator/TV/bracket I used for my swap. It’s a clean set-up and can be had for way cheaper on e-bay then through Windsor-fox.
First off I want to say…………….search AOD in the search block and on Google, do some research and ask SPECIFIC questions. This subject get beat to death week after week on here!
Now I’ll add something constructive.
You DO NOT need to beat on anything…….ever during this swap. If you do, stop and come and ask some specific questions.
You can modify your existing shifter linkage, I did on mine, or you can fabricate your own using the Windsor-Fox website for a reference.
Here is a little light general reading to help you in the right direction…
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=forum&Number=678837
http://www.mustangsandmore.com/ubb/DanJonesC4AODswap.html
This is an excellent article on the shifter linkage.
http://home.online.no/~janekz/a/c4aod3.htm
I’m giving you this because getting parts from w/f nowadays is like pulling teeth for overpriced parts……don’t buy from them! But this is just one mans opinion.
There are a couple things that also need addressing. I longer bell housing bolts are needed (2 1/2”-2 3/4” long, don’t remember the o.d. like ½ I think)
Backup light/neutral safety switch; use a ‘69 FMX one that mounts in your shifter, not on the tranny.
get in contact with a good local driveshaft place incase you need to shorten the drive shaft, I didn’t need to, but I had a original FMX tranny.
Also, if you have headers, please understand it can be tight….expect to deal with exhaust and header modifications!
Other then that, include the little stuff in you price like fluid, cleaners, filter and gasket for the pan and remember the shifter rod position needs to be up, but that can be easily swaped in 10 minutes……read the vmf link I gave you up top.
This is the accelerator/TV/bracket I used for my swap. It’s a clean set-up and can be had for way cheaper on e-bay then through Windsor-fox.
Why not use the AOD switch? Since I was replacing the entire car's wiring harness I used the 1991 Mustang switch rather than trying to get the C4's switch to adapt.streetgrande69 said:
Just curious if there was something wrong with the AOD switch.
edbert, the reason SG69 is suggesting the FMX switch is for simplicity it plugs into the existing backup harness and is contained in the shifter itself so there is no need to rewire anything. also the swap is super easy if the car already has an FMX, you should be able to modify the stock FMX crosmember to work with the AOD, i know SG69 wasn't able to for some reason. but i haven't gotten that far myself so i'm sure he would be able to explain better whay he wasn't able to use it on his app. i have seen articles before where it was done though.
brians right, it was just a simple plug in swap on a 69-70 for the switch. i know its not cheaper, but hey he didn't ask that 
i didn't bother with the xmember becaues i got the tranny, crossmember, and almost everything else in a package deal from a VMFer in las vegas on the cheap
. i did have every intention on doing it though, or making my own.
i didn't bother with the xmember becaues i got the tranny, crossmember, and almost everything else in a package deal from a VMFer in las vegas on the cheap
. i did have every intention on doing it though, or making my own.
jerry S
New Member
Edbert said:
Edbert:
I was admiring your engine again on your site. I notice you have long tubes. What kind of work did you have to do to make them fit the AOD? According to the Windsor Fox website,
I was curious what you had to do to make the LTs fit.
regards,
jS
They may be talking about a 65-66, mine fit with plenty of room on the 67. See here how much free space there is around the bellhousing?
The problem with the exhaust space I'm having is further aft (right behind the collectors) where the chassis has the extra bracing for the verts. This picture SORTA shows what I mean:
The flexible tubing is just a temporary measure so I don't go deaf during break in and initial adjustments. They shouldn't leak TOO much and should last until I can get her to the muffler shop
The problem with the exhaust space I'm having is further aft (right behind the collectors) where the chassis has the extra bracing for the verts. This picture SORTA shows what I mean:
The flexible tubing is just a temporary measure so I don't go deaf during break in and initial adjustments. They shouldn't leak TOO much and should last until I can get her to the muffler shop
Attachments
357 is just a 30 overbore, stock stroked "Big Windsor" (plus 357 is my favorite handgun cartridge ).
I never thought about it before but you are right, the wider space between cylinder heads is probably why I had so much room...duh! Also the headers in those pictures are specifically FOR the swap I did. I can see the stock small Windsor having a tougher time alright.
).I never thought about it before but you are right, the wider space between cylinder heads is probably why I had so much room...duh! Also the headers in those pictures are specifically FOR the swap I did. I can see the stock small Windsor having a tougher time alright.
