I'm starting to gather parts for the swap in my daily driven 89 LX. So far I have an FMS Super Duty T-5 transmission and a Steeda Tri-Ax shifter. What does everyone recommend for a clutch setup, a flywheel(aluminum or steel), a scattershield, and a cable and quadrant?
I bought a ford nodular flywheel/king cobra on my swap and steeda cable/FWA/quadrant.They work great.I'm stock bottom/ported E7's/explorer intake/exhaust/4.10's.Nothing scary but runs hard.
I did a 4cyl auto to 8cyl stick swap in my Notchback. I used a rebuilt T-5, Centerforce DFX clutch, pressure plate, T/O bearing, and pilot bearing. I used a MAC shifter, and regular conventional fluid. The flywheel used a stock, used one that I had. I just had it turned to "true" it up. The car drives awesome, smooth pedal effort with this clutch that can handle 500+HP.
If you want a scattershield, any brand should due, you can get them anywhere.
Also, you need a different trans harness for the T-5. It runs from the drivers side kick panel under the carpet then to the trans. Do you have the clutch pedal box and driveshaft yet??
Good luck with your swap, it is very easy, and very worth it!!!
I have the Centerforce Dual Friction in my 65 coupe right now. And while it has awesome clamping ability, its slipping ability sucks. It's too tight. Slipping the clutch is near impossible. It's either engaged or disengaged. Right now I'm leaning towards a King Cobra clutch with an aluminum flywheel. I like running regular street tires at the track(more of a challenge and easier on parts) and my thinking is that a looser clutch and an aluminum flywheel will hit the tires softer. Anyone agree or disagree with this thought process?
FYI, that HD fork and cable kit are about $48 shipped for the EXACT kit you're buying from ford at buyfordracing.com, so don't pay any more than that at the dealer.
as well, skip the quadrant and fwa and go straight to the fiore fwa and quadrant, best hands down on the market, with the maximum motorsports setup a semi decent follow up (not as fond of their firewall adjuster) read my sig for more info on this subject
skip the alum flywheel and stick with the stock iron, or a steel unit. the alum piece is not as streetable unless you're really making the power to need it, it's really wasted cash on something that will likely effect you in a negative way.
don't forget little stupid stuff like the t5 reverse/neutral safety cable (probably a junkyard item) the clutch cable clip that goes at the fork, NEW flywheel bolts (arp sells a nice set) and NEW metric pressure plate bolt kit, fms sells a nice kit for those, pick them up at your ford dealer.