At What Point Is A Valve Job Necessary?

hoopty5.0

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#21

• Jun 8, 2015

• #21

A5literMan said:

I should have an e cam available for cheap( if you're interested) fairly soon.

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PMd.

 

Boosted92LX

It's only an inch or two. What's the big deal?

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#22

• Jun 8, 2015

• #22

@hoopty5.0
@A5literMan

if hoopty doesn't buy itI'd like next chance..

 

A5literMan

At least it is lumpy...

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#23

• Jun 8, 2015

• #23

Boosted92LX said:

@hoopty5.0
@A5literMan

if hoopty doesn't buy itI'd like next chance..

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Hoopty grabbed it but he may sell it to you for a profit lol

 

Boosted92LX

It's only an inch or two. What's the big deal?

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#24

• Jun 8, 2015

• #24

A5literMan said:

Hoopty grabbed it but he may sell it to you for a profit lol

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Lol.. he's a player..

 

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Boosted92LX

It's only an inch or two. What's the big deal?

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#25

• Jun 8, 2015

• #25

I dont mean that in a bad way...

 

RangerJoe

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#26

• Jun 8, 2015

• #26

The redneck way to check valve guided, as taught to me:

Disassemble the heads, no valve seals, leave the valves in place. Take your finger and push the valves as if you are going to remove them from the head. When your finger hits the head, push down and make an air tight seal over the valve stem hole of the head. With your other hand, pull the valve the rest of the way out of the head. you should feel some resistance and a "pop" as the air seal is broken. This is the sign of a good valve stem guide.

Joe

 

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hoopty5.0

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#27

• Jun 8, 2015

• #27

RangerJoe said:

The redneck way to check valve guided, as taught to me:

Disassemble the heads, no valve seals, leave the valves in place. Take your finger and push the valves as if you are going to remove them from the head. When your finger hits the head, push down and make an air tight seal over the valve stem hole of the head. With your other hand, pull the valve the rest of the way out of the head. you should feel some resistance and a "pop" as the air seal is broken. This is the sign of a good valve stem guide.

Joe

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Thanks Joe, I'll give it a whirl.

 

hoopty5.0

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#28

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I think the valve job is a moot point now. I can step up to a 1.90 intake valve for $47. Somehow, the extra .06" is worth a few CFM. The exhaust valves don't share the benefit, so I'll only do the intake. So, the heads with get cut for the valves and decked .030". If I can squeeze 280 whp out of the setup, i"d call it a success, but I think it is really optimistic. I swore to myself I wouldn't set goals because it snowballs.

 

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FoxMustangLvr

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#29

• Jun 9, 2015

• #29

Are you going with a Tmoss explorer intake to achieve that high of a number?

 

hoopty5.0

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#30

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Explorer for sure, haven't decided if I will send it to him or not. According to him, the intake should flow 30% more than the heads. May not be needed since these heads well.... suck.

Speaking of suck, what's the deal with people asking $250 for an explorer intake? They're as common as roaches and I can get one from the salvage yard for $40. "But it's powder coated." Yeah, an awful metal flake blue. Gonna scrape that crap off first chance I get. Sheesh.

 

FoxMustangLvr

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#31

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The problem is the explorer intake is the most recommended budget upgrades for intakes so there is a demand for them. The other problem is the junk yard hounds that have nothing to do but hunt down these popular factory upgrade parts and pull those parts super cheap while most of us are working and then jack up the price to sell them to us. It's pretty much a full time job for them.

 

hoopty5.0

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#32

• Jun 9, 2015

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Maybe they arent as common up there, but here there is a certain demographic the LOVES those things and there are probably 5 rows of them at the yard when I was there last time. I may try and go this weekend and see what I can find.

 

Gearbanger 101

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#33

• Jun 9, 2015

• #33

Unknown mileage on a set of 15-20 year-old Explorer heads and we're debating whether or not to re-cut the valves? I can't even believe its even in question? A good 3-angle valve job is worth it for piece of mind, if nothing else....the added performance is just a bonus.

There are area's you can afford to skimp on and area's you can't. Considering how much cost and effort is involved in removing and repairing/replacing a set of heads, skimping on the valve train is not an area I'd chose to tighten the purse strings on.

 

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Grabbin' Asphalt

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#34

• Jun 9, 2015

• #34

280rwhp can be done with that Ecam, ask me how i know lol
Attention to the details will be important like stated by the guys, but it will be a very streetable fun.

 

Last edited: Jun 9, 2015

Grabbin' Asphalt

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#35

• Jun 9, 2015

• #35

My Cobra intake, upper and lower are ported btw.

 

hoopty5.0

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#36

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Grabbin' Asphalt said:

My Cobra intake, upper and lower are ported btw.

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By who?

 

Grabbin' Asphalt

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#37

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• #37

hoopty5.0 said:

By who?

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That would be Scott Milner at Coupe Performance in Georgia.
He's one of the best also, he did all the work on the gt40p heads too.
I got it dyno'd and tuned at Brad Brands Racing shop.
Believe the dyno sheet and specs are in the Dyno sticky.

 

Last edited: Jun 9, 2015

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RangerJoe

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#38

• Jun 10, 2015

• #38

Grabbin' Asphalt said:

That would be Scott Milner at Coupe Performance in Georgia.
He's one of the best also, he did all the work on the gt40p heads too.
I got it dyno'd and tuned at Brad Brands Racing shop.
Believe the dyno sheet and specs are in the Dyno sticky.

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I know some people who use him, they all say great things about him and his work.

Hoe

 

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hoopty5.0

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#39

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RangerJoe said:

I know some people who use him, they all say great things about him and his work.

Hoe

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Spell check, quick!! Hahahahaaaaaa

 

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FoxMustangLvr

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#40

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RangerJoe said:

Hoe

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I know some people that use her, they say great things about her and her work.

 

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