I'm thinking about getting into this stuff and leaving the drag racing to my 69 fastback project. What are you guys running suspension wise for you stangs and any tips you could shed light on? Any good bangs for the buck to get started with?
autcross and roadrace guys....
- Thread starter RFMustangGT
- Start date
Bosko5.0
Active Member
I want to get into it but Closest place Is like 40 miles away.
For sure get new lower control arms stiff spring and shocks, racing tires($$$)
Iam sure the rest will ad to the list I started.
For sure get new lower control arms stiff spring and shocks, racing tires($$$)
Iam sure the rest will ad to the list I started.
40 miles aint bad bud, come to Iowa! Closest drag stip is 40 miles (unless you count blacktops), and the nearest road course is new as of last year when Rusty Wallace came to Iowa to build our track in Newton 105 miles from me!
Otherwise, Id be heading out of state... 
To the poster, I think some wider, lighter wheels with the proper tires will make a huge difference on a decent suspension. By decent suspension I mean something along the lines as posted above: Springs, shocks/struts, lca's.
http://www.miracerros.com/mustang/t_suspension.htm
check that site out for the basics.
first i'd start out by evaluating a budget. see what kind of money you can put into the car and that will tell you how crazy of parts you can buy. if money isn't a problem, maximum motorsports or griggs parts are the way to go. i'd start out like with what the others said. brakes are very important too.
check that site out for the basics.
first i'd start out by evaluating a budget. see what kind of money you can put into the car and that will tell you how crazy of parts you can buy. if money isn't a problem, maximum motorsports or griggs parts are the way to go. i'd start out like with what the others said. brakes are very important too.
mustang6tee8
Member
I did pretty well with H&R sport springs, Tokico struts and shocks from an 03 mach 1, tubular rear lower control arms, stock rear uppers, and 3.73 gears. it's a stock motor with a 5 speed, and i left it in 2nd the whole time (track dependent though). for tires, i used 275/40/17 toyo RA-1's. i've autocrossed only a few times (learned how to drive well real quick), and with that combo, i was able to get up to 1/2 second slower than a guy who has been doing it for years
i have stock brakes, but cobra/mach 1 brakes front and rear would make a huge difference
i have stock brakes, but cobra/mach 1 brakes front and rear would make a huge difference
I was in need of new strut/shocks and on a budget. I ended up getting some KYB GR2's and Eibach Pro-Kit and some CC plates. Before those I was running about 2-3 seconds slower than a C5 Z06. Now I'm running about half 1-1.5 seconds behind him. Nothing done with my control arms but they would probably help me more. Also a nice set of either Hoosier R6 or A6 or some Kumho V700s would do you very nice. And as everyone else has said, Cobra breaks are you friend. I wouldnt trade em for anything.
parchisi
New Member
Tires first! Then I'd say Brakes and subframe connectors, then springs, shocks, C/C plates, LCA's, bumpsteer kit. After that panhard bar then a torque arm. Delrin bushings for the front control arms to get rid of any deflection in the rubber bushings. Maximum Motorsport steering shaft and aluminum steering rack bushings to tighten up the steering, quick ratio steering rack if you wanna go the extra mile.
Adjustable LCA's would be preferable, then you can adjust the corner weights to get the car to steer the same left and right. Put the battery in the trunk and try to get rid of weight....
Adjustable LCA's would be preferable, then you can adjust the corner weights to get the car to steer the same left and right. Put the battery in the trunk and try to get rid of weight....
I've already got a 13" cobra front brake kit and a Steeda rear sway bar (broke the factory one). I thought about taking my old strut tower brace and cutting and welding it back to clear my intake. What do you guy use or recommend for tires or better yet what would you not recommend? I've got to buy some real soon cause mine are about done. Going to take them to a dragstrip at the end of march to finish them off. I don't drive the car much anymore due to college so it has become a toy more than daily transportation. I would like to find something that I can still drive it on the street no problems but want something with good grip on a track day and try not to break the bank. Thanks for the info guys! keep it coming!
Yobi1Kanobi
Member
- Apr 9, 2003
- 559
- 0
- 16
Please dont Race your 69....don't :Track:
As for autoX you can get as simply as tires, brakes, springs, and a raceseat.
to Full suspension coilovers, adjustable everything at four corners. IRS rear or some sort of watt links. Rollcage, Welded and linked to you frame and subframe.
How much do you feel like spending is what it comes down to. Its just as expensive as drag racing but its more fun and you can set up your street car for it reliably.
It last longer than 10-14 seconds.
And it actually involves a litle bit more skill than mashing your right foot down... You dont have to be the quickest one on track days to have fun with it. All sort of car and drivers go out to have fun and experience dring schools.
As for just FUN...I say get some brake Upgrades at the very least some SS lines, Slot Rotors and Either Hawk pads or EBC. A spring shock and strut package, like tokico or Eibachs. And a seat to keep you from rolling around like one from Summit or such...
As for autoX you can get as simply as tires, brakes, springs, and a raceseat.
to Full suspension coilovers, adjustable everything at four corners. IRS rear or some sort of watt links. Rollcage, Welded and linked to you frame and subframe.
How much do you feel like spending is what it comes down to. Its just as expensive as drag racing but its more fun and you can set up your street car for it reliably.
It last longer than 10-14 seconds.
And it actually involves a litle bit more skill than mashing your right foot down... You dont have to be the quickest one on track days to have fun with it. All sort of car and drivers go out to have fun and experience dring schools.
As for just FUN...I say get some brake Upgrades at the very least some SS lines, Slot Rotors and Either Hawk pads or EBC. A spring shock and strut package, like tokico or Eibachs. And a seat to keep you from rolling around like one from Summit or such...
1) wheels/tires... a light 17/18" rim would be optimal with some road race tires
1.5) BRAKES! atleast get a good set of pads. dont worry about the cross drilled/slotted/whatever. blanks work just as well
2) springs/shocks your choice on how low/stiff you wanna go. coil overs would be great tho. dont forget c/c plates (dont cheap out with these, get the maximum motorsports ones. its worth the extra$ to do it once)
3) LCA's/panhard bar/poly bushings for the front
also make sure b4 u start that all your suspension stuff is up for the task, nothing broken/worn out. if it is start by replacing/upgrading that
1.5) BRAKES! atleast get a good set of pads. dont worry about the cross drilled/slotted/whatever. blanks work just as well
2) springs/shocks your choice on how low/stiff you wanna go. coil overs would be great tho. dont forget c/c plates (dont cheap out with these, get the maximum motorsports ones. its worth the extra$ to do it once)
3) LCA's/panhard bar/poly bushings for the front
also make sure b4 u start that all your suspension stuff is up for the task, nothing broken/worn out. if it is start by replacing/upgrading that
Autocross
Stiff up the chassis and loose some weight. I tried Steeda Ultra light but didn't save much although bit wider. Toyo and now Yokohama are very consistent will try Nitto next. I love the ride of the H&R (super sport) but lowered the front more than anticipated. Bear Brake upgrades were remarkable and work well. No difference with larger swaybars and upper lower control arms except harsh ride lots road noise and squeeks. Straight line is more consistent but still comes around when power applied off corners. Wish I had gone with Torque arm set up instead...
The larger tires are a handfull on even surfaces camber caster plates, Steeda X2 balljoint and bumpsteer kit help some. Still weight is the enemy.
Stiff up the chassis and loose some weight. I tried Steeda Ultra light but didn't save much although bit wider. Toyo and now Yokohama are very consistent will try Nitto next. I love the ride of the H&R (super sport) but lowered the front more than anticipated. Bear Brake upgrades were remarkable and work well. No difference with larger swaybars and upper lower control arms except harsh ride lots road noise and squeeks. Straight line is more consistent but still comes around when power applied off corners. Wish I had gone with Torque arm set up instead...
The larger tires are a handfull on even surfaces camber caster plates, Steeda X2 balljoint and bumpsteer kit help some. Still weight is the enemy.
Car Nut
Founding Member
No leaks. If you've got leaks of any kind, get those resolved first. Some, most, or maybe all will frown on leaks.
I'm looking to get into this same thing probalby next year. I've got the parts I want (minus engine upgrades), just need to find out where to begin and the costs involved. Not much time for that sort of stuff this spring/summer, but hopefull soon after.
I'm looking to get into this same thing probalby next year. I've got the parts I want (minus engine upgrades), just need to find out where to begin and the costs involved. Not much time for that sort of stuff this spring/summer, but hopefull soon after.
tires are a must. I don't even think bald would be a good word to describe how worn my tires are. I think over my spring break I might go for some basic weight reduction, modify my strut tower brace, and sub frames. If I luck up on a good deal on a good set of springs I might buy some.
mustang6tee8
Member
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