Auto Transmission Problems? '00 GT

StangVert00

New Member
Mar 2, 2003
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Stoneham, MA
Greetings,
While crusing on the highway, Auto transmission, Cruise Control off, the road was level, I went to pass someone, when I hit the pedal, the car felt like it went into OD, and the RPM went very high for about 5 seonds. After that it was fine.

Now, in traffic around town, when it shifts at around 10-15 mph, it's very jerky, like it slams into gear from 1st to 2nd.

Any ideas? :shrug: Could it be the IAC?

Thanks in advance.

StangVert00
 
StangVert00 said:
Greetings,
While crusing on the highway, Auto transmission, Cruise Control off, the road was level, I went to pass someone, when I hit the pedal, the car felt like it went into OD, and the RPM went very high for about 5 seonds. After that it was fine.

Now, in traffic around town, when it shifts at around 10-15 mph, it's very jerky, like it slams into gear from 1st to 2nd.

Any ideas? :shrug: Could it be the IAC?

Thanks in advance.

StangVert00

First, we need to know a couple of things.

1. How many miles are on the car ?

2. when was the last time the transmission fluid was changed ?

3. Have you checked the transmission fluid level lately and if so, what color is it ?

4. Do you have any "shuddering", like running over rail road tracks whenever accelerating from a stop or do you get that shuddering whenever it shifts into the next gear ?

I highly doubt its the IAC, but you could always clean it just to be sure. If you havent checked your transmission fluid level lately, go check it and make sure it isn't low and note the color of it.
 
StangVert00 said:
To answer your questions:

1. 50 k miles
2. The fluid had never been changed.
3. I checked the fluid level, and it looks good. Kind of a light burgandy color.
4. Nothing like that has happened. :nice:

The fluid should be changed no less than every 30k. Personally, I'de change the fluid every 15-20k. Note: Not a full flush, just a basic drain, filter change, and refill. If its light burgandy, then it needs changed asap. It should always be red, not burgandy and should have no brown spots, dirt, or grit within.

You might want to get a transmission cooler as this will help extend the life of the fluid and the transmission.
 
Dark Knight GT said:
The fluid should be changed no less than every 30k. Personally, I'de change the fluid every 15-20k. Note: Not a full flush, just a basic drain, filter change, and refill. If its light burgandy, then it needs changed asap. It should always be red, not burgandy and should have no brown spots, dirt, or grit within.

You might want to get a transmission cooler as this will help extend the life of the fluid and the transmission.

A basic drain would only get rid of a few quarts. Might as well drain the torque convertor too while you're at it..
 
i know panther chassis cars have a plug in the torque converter, do mustangs have them as well? a good fluid change should consist of dropping the pan, cleaning the bottom of the pan, changing the filter, draining the torque converter if there is a plug, then flushing with a synthetic.
 
narongc73 said:
A basic drain would only get rid of a few quarts. Might as well drain the torque convertor too while you're at it..
Since he's got 50k, I would recommend the full flush for this time around. You are right though, if you can drain the torque converter(I say "if" because some don't have a nut to drain them) then drain it.
 
Dark Knight GT said:
Since he's got 50k, I would recommend the full flush for this time around. You are right though, if you can drain the torque converter(I say "if" because some don't have a nut to drain them) then drain it.

All mustangs should have them.. just have to crank it til you see the plug. I got lucky last time, it was already visible.
 
bdcardinal said:
B&M, steeda, fluidyne. they sell them in summitracing. just get the highest GVW rated cooler you can, and you will have no cooling issues, just remember to plumb the stock one in series with the aftermarket one.

thanks :) what does it mean to "plumb the stock one in series with the aftermarket one?"
 
narongc73 said:
All mustangs should have them.. just have to crank it til you see the plug. I got lucky last time, it was already visible.
I know the aftermarket ones don't have one. I don't know for sure if my stock one did or not.

thanks what does it mean to "plumb the stock one in series with the aftermarket one?"
It means to hook it up in the correct order, stock one first, then, hook the line from the stocker to the aftermarket one.
 
dont go to a dealer. its not that it will be done wrong, it will be expensive. i know my old dealer charged $130 to do a transmission flush, and we didnt change the filter. if you are mechanically inclined and have a jack and jackstands, you can tackle this job on your own. if you need help with steps, just ask, i do it a lot on friends cars.
 
these are electronic controlled transmissions,if a problem is detected they will raise line pressure and shift points(they may or maynot set code).disconnecting the battery resets the computer