AUTO,yes im thinking auto!

Makdaddymac

New Member
May 28, 2005
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orlando
hey everyone im back with a 88gt,auto.......with tranny problems.....but that details for a thread when i have pics...cause i bought the car for cheep cheep....and want to show everyone......

the idea is since i have a bad aod why not swap to standard....but im thinking screw that......by budget is under 400.00... i can find a local aod with low miles around here for like 150.00, shift kit,and stall speed converter and bolt it up.....but this wouldnt be worth my time with that weak ol AOD.....but why not....... it would be goo denough for my 300hp goal,reliable,and allow highway cruising.....
what would result from a aod with a 2800-3000trq convrt, and a shift kit...i just want to have a fun launch and be able to hold my gear to any rpms (5.5k or so).........:shrug:
 
Well ... for a bit :) have an aod with a fresh rebuild and some upgraded parts/shift kit and high rev gov. its definately fun and I can smoke people pretty damn easy off the line but w/ the combined fact that there is definately a HP loss (debatable how much) w/ an auto and hard shifts into 4th gear are not a good idea I tend to get passed up doing a full quarter. Check out http://www.alternativeauto.com/waterbox/wb_archives/aod.html and http://www.lincolnsonline.com/tech/00080.html both have some very useful info on the aod .. also check out http://www.clickclickracing.com/, its another forum but more based towards the aod.
 
get the bauman shift, and an edge converter, fun times in the aod will be the result and it will def. hold up to your 300 hp car. your prolly looking around a 2800 to 3000 stall converter, get a nonlockup and that with the bauman shift kit will be a blast
 
nah im gonna try this aod stuff first....all my cars have been 5spd....inclluding my current d.driver......and honestly i think i would enjoy an auto(only if it was built not to be so damn boggy) which a aod with kit and converter would do the job....
 
You can't drink your coffee/soda and shift gears on your way to anywhere.

There is no MPG benefit with a stick anymore and clutches cost $500 every 50k or so while the slushbox should last 100k+ easy.

5% of cars sold are stick. That is your available market when you go to sell it. A stick is 6" long (if you're lucky) and seldom used:)
 
hey,anyone.....what shift kit is worth the money.....
i wass hearing the transgo stage 2.....i dont want fully maual, i want to be able to hold my shifts to any rpm, but also have a fully functional automatic cruiser.....keep in mind i'm buying a 2800-3200 trq. converter to add......i was looking up b&m but their info doesnt seem to be accurate.
http://dagostinoracing.com/index.ph...=2678_3383_3642_11870_11871&products_id=13599
click the next button, thier is a 46.00 and 97.00 kit for my aod....im thinking i want the 97.00 kit.....
 
I have heard that the Baumann ReCal kit and Transgo Hi-rev GOV kit is the best route to go but I personally used the transgo reprogram kit b4 I heard that and am happy with it, at light throttle it won't bang into gears to bad but if you stuff your foot in it you'll be scratchin into 2nd every time

** Oh yah Imo B&M kits r junk I'd stay away from them myself.
 
well the transgo GOV kit elimates fully automatic correct....i want that option...
im getting confused because......how can you control shifts when all you have is 1,D,and OD....is that 1,2,3 with od or is it 1-2-3-4?????
 
the transgo will not eliminate the full automatic option, only if u go with a lentech manual valve body or other manual valve body brand. I had a transgo on my car and would occasionally do the 1 D 1 shuffle tp hold 2nd gear. even though its not recommended to do the shuffle it would be the only way told 2nd without a manual valve body. I say a good transgo shift kit, some beefy internals and a nice 3000 edge converter would do the trick
 
Maybe you cant drink and drive but I can.. LOL.. Im not saying stick is better or anything but the reason but that "5%" of cars sold with stick are performance cars are they not? I think either way aod or 5-speed will be fun if built right. Anyways good luck with the trans!



You can't drink your coffee/soda and shift gears on your way to anywhere.

There is no MPG benefit with a stick anymore and clutches cost $500 every 50k or so while the slushbox should last 100k+ easy.

5% of cars sold are stick. That is your available market when you go to sell it. A stick is 6" long (if you're lucky) and seldom used:)
 
def. go with the bauman and a 3000 stall non lockup, you dont want a lockup converter with any mods other than stock, the trans cannot handle the lock to lock shifts and youwill snap a shaft unless you upgrade. You wont notice much diff. on the street witha non lockup
 
well i was just advise to a 2500-2800 converter......so i would keep my rpms lower at light thottle and when i wot i will get a neck effect. rather than just a making noise and going more faster....make since?
i think transgo and a 2500-2800 converter will do me right.....
what do you mean 1-d-1 shuffle???? is that how you get second gear???
 
in order to be able to hold 2nd with a stock valve body..yes...say u take off at wOT in 1...shift it up to D and as soon as it hits 2nd , drop it back to 1 and it'll hold 2nd till u shift up to D again. the reason I would do this was just to make the tranny shift at a higher shift point other than it shifting by itself. people do not recommend doing this becausenit hurts ur aod. I did it tons and tranny always ran finr,but do it at ur risk. one more thing, never shift to overdrive while WOT because overdrive is really weak on the aods.
 
isnt the di with the circle 3rd and overdrive(4th) so why cant i slap into it.....
my future mods include, cobra heads,intake,tb,pulleys,3.73's,air intake(so easy on speed density),thats it.....
whats the best trq converter range for a car that is gonna see the track every blue moon, have to deal with orlando bumper to bumper even if i have to just goto the grocery store lol....ugh... but give me the fastest red light to red light.....???


ps. you guys have been more than helpful
 
1 is 1st obviously, D: if u manually throw into d it'll throw both 2nd and 3rd, there is no way of holding 2nd with a stock valve body other than doing the shuffle. For example: if ur racing someone from a stop, u take off with shifter in D, it goes 1st, 2nd, 3rd right? depending on ur cable adjustments it can shifts gears anywhere from around 4500+, but sometimes these shift points are too low slowing u down and keeping u out of ur powerband. so why not shift at a desired rpm u want? if u do this manually u can start off in 1st shift idk maybe 5500-6000, but once u shift it to D, it will throw both 2nd and 3rd gear as if u had just left it in regular drive. Thus again shifting early or out of ur powerband. thus the shuffle comes into play holding 2nd, then shifting when YOU want then hitting 3rd. ofcourse u can avoid all this with a badass manual valvebody from lentech which would then change ur shifter to this: 1 = 1st, D=2nd, D with circle = 3rd, then they provide u with a switvh when activated ur overdrive comes on. This would be with a stock shifter of course. A desired beefed up Aod would require a manual valve body from lentech, beefed up shafts and a custom converter by edge. oh and 4.10s out in the back, and ull be up there with the 5spds.