Autolite 4100

[notny41]

Right now I'd just settle for an engine that runs smooth once it is warmed up! The dang thing seems to act like it is flooding or starving or like the plugs are fouling whenever you try to hold the engine speed at a constant rpm. Then when you press the pedal down it jumps back to life again. The plugs all look like they should.

I'll tell you too that when I first started it tonight, it required about a 1/16th of an inch opening or less for the choke to keep the car running and that was when I used my finger to get the butterfly to stay at that position. And it was such a precision opening that I doubt the carb could ever be adjusted that accurately to maintain the engine. There is just too much play in all of the linkage...

So, I'm giving up on the hopes that I'll ever have an engine that you could pump once and turn the key and the thing would just warm up on its own and adjust idle speed accordingly without the need for pumping the pedal.

Like I said before, I'd just be satisfied if I could get in and drive it without the sensation of "running out of gas" whenever I try to keep a constant speed. I reset the idle mixtures back to 1 3/4 turns out from fully seated and that seemed to help when the engine was cold but not once the thing warmed up.

And I don't know if it could be that the coil is going faulty once it warms up but it didn't feel that warm on the outside of it after I turned the engine off.



I am just getting so frustrated!!!

I used to have a 67 t-5 with a 289 in it and that thing ran like a sewing machine. I don't understand why this one is being so damn finicky.

What's your best guess on my "out-of-gas" sensation that I am getting: Fuel-Delivery or Ignition related? And what's the best (least expensive) test for either?

 

[65Mustang2+2]

Paul,
Is that a rebuilt Pony Carb? If it is send it back them, let them do all the fuel mixtures settings for you! All you need to do is adjust the choke when you get it back from them!

 

[JB66]

So, you didn't have to keep pumping it to keep it running? If not, you're gaining! The air flow through the carb will tend to pull the butterfly open also. Before you go any further with the choke, you need to get it running properly fully warmed up. The choke can't be used to compensate for other problems. Has the carb been rebuilt? There may be an internal passage or more likely a jet that is restricted. I might also think the float level might be too low on the primary side and when you open up the throttle the sondaries start to kick in and supply the needed fuel. Don't give up!

 

[notny41]

My appologies to JB66 as he was the first one (and early on in the thread) to suggest that it sounds like I have a vaccuum leak.

Don't know why I waited this long to try the most simple of tests (probably because I wasn't sure what was supposed to happen), but I sprayed carb cleaner near the base of the carb spacer and the engine shot up in RPM's. Sprayed it on the other side of the carb in the same spot and nothing happened.

I pulled off the carb and the spacer and it is very apparent that the person that converted this from two barrel to 4 put the wrong gaskets on. I called Autozone and they have the proper gaskets on hand for 99 cents each. I haven't had a chance to sneak up and get them yet but I'm betting that when I put the correct ones on I will have some problems solved and then I can adjust the choke and the idle mix screws properly...

I'll let you know what happens after I put the right gaskets on.

 

[notny41]

Put the new (and correct) gaskets on and you'd never know how much difference $1.98 could make.

I am a happy camper. Purring like a kitten and cold starts like a dream. No more pumping the gas pedal after turning the key!!!

Vaccuum leaks suck!

Me =

Thanks to everyone for the helpful posts - especially JB66, Ozsum2, and 302 Coupe! Everyone else, gets honorable mention! Thanks again!

P

 

[GeeTeeStanggirl]

Another 4100 Carb Question- Need Pictures

I have a 4bbl 4100 on my stang. I need to view pictures of the springs hookups to the back of the intake and to the throttle link ( I think I stating them right) My enginge revs high and not always I can kick it down. I found out that my throttle cable needed replacing, and it was but they adjusted my springs, moved them. This because the car has an increasing rev. Sometime with my foot on the pedal it will go as fast as 40mph. So when I got home, I myself replaced the accelator pump gasket ( in front of the carb- - gas linking) and now it is fixed no leaks but when i step on the gas the spring flew off. Thank god i was home and not driving. Therefore i need images of the carb hook ups etc. Any one got pictuces?

 

[runawayabc123]

Try this site for pictues, lots of 4100 to choose from if some of the pics don't work.

http://www.mustangtek.com/4100/ford4100.html

 

[D.Hearne]

After reading all this I'm thinking now.......................for such a simple carb, there sure is a lot of monkeying around to get it to run right. I'll stick with Holleys. One thing that I will add to the mix here is are y'all still running points with this 4100? If you are, that's half your problem. If you got em, they need to be replaced with an electronic module..

 

[bnickel]

I have a 4bbl 4100 on my stang. I need to view pictures of the springs hookups to the back of the intake and to the throttle link ( I think I stating them right) My enginge revs high and not always I can kick it down. I found out that my throttle cable needed replacing, and it was but they adjusted my springs, moved them. This because the car has an increasing rev. Sometime with my foot on the pedal it will go as fast as 40mph. So when I got home, I myself replaced the accelator pump gasket ( in front of the carb- - gas linking) and now it is fixed no leaks but when i step on the gas the spring flew off. Thank god i was home and not driving. Therefore i need images of the carb hook ups etc. Any one got pictuces?

if you buy a carb kit (i like borg warner or motorcraft) they will usually have all the info for which rods go in which holes, etc for your model number carb, which will be on the base of the carb on the left front mounting ear. once you have the model number you can go down the list to see which holes apply to your carb.

 

[bnickel]

After reading all this I'm thinking now.......................for such a simple carb, there sure is a lot of monkeying around to get it to run right. I'll stick with Holleys. One thing that I will add to the mix here is are y'all still running points with this 4100? If you are, that's half your problem. If you got em, they need to be replaced with an electronic module..

D, take a look at my post above, it's really not any different than setting a holley when you take into account all the settings you have to do on a holley like accellerator pump, etc just one a holley you do it with screws.

 

[D.Hearne]

D, take a look at my post above, it's really not any different than setting a holley when you take into account all the settings you have to do on a holley like accellerator pump, etc just one a holley you do it with screws.

Yea, I know, just thought I'd pull their chains. The idle and choke business can be eliminated in some cases with an ignition upgrade from points .

 

[bnickel]

Yea, I know, just thought I'd pull their chains. The idle and choke business can be eliminated in some cases with an ignition upgrade from points .

true dat, i should hook up my mallory hy-fire to the stang too, but it's an old one and since i'm going for an "old skool" look on the cougar i may save it...can't decide